What Makes A "Good" Bridge?

[Shelly]

Hi,

Why do people replace bridges and what make a "good" bridge? Is heavier necessarily better? A few reasons that I can see are 1) ease of setting action and intonation and having the "settings" lock in place 2) improved sustain 3) some bridges allow variable string spacing to a point.

I notice that Fender bridges as a rule have pretty thin bases, except for my Roscoe Beck, which has some kind of Goliath set-up (Gotoh?).

Thanks!

[bassteban]

I had to replace the bridge on my Fender Jazz Special- the height screws kept backing out from vibration & the action would go unplayably low. I've heard people state preference for higher mass bridges for sustain, or low mass for the 'vintage(I cringe every time I use that cliche )' vibe, but I probably couldn't detect a difference in sound. I like a bit of adjustability; I play 5s, 6s & a 7 & I like to space the higher reg strings a bit closer for chording & the lower end wider for better accuracy when slapping. That would/will affect bridge choice for me. Lastly there's the string-through thing, but also something I have not noticed any difference one to another.

Edit: I think I rambled on a bit w/o really answering your questions. IME, a good bridge adjusts fairly easily & stays adjusted.

[Shelly]

Thanks for your response. I didn't feel like you were rambling at all.

The reason I ask is because I have an SX bass and we know how much people talk about modding those. I can get a Gotoh for about $30.00, but I'm thinking "what for"? One thing that I do find annoying about the bridge is how the springs rattle on the screws sometimes, but I only hear it when I'm playing unplugged.

Thanks again!

[jwymore]

I think a good bridge is one that addresses your points 1 and 3. I'm not sure I totally buy into the mass equals sustain argument because it's not that simple. Many design factors affect sustain.

I'm a big fan of the Hipshot "A" style bridge because of it's range of adjustability, it's solid locking of the saddles once set and the overall quality of the machining. It looks really nice IMHO as well.

Having said that the only bridges I really don't care for are the MIM Fender bridges because of adjustment and noise problems and I hate setting up those Gibson three screw bridges!!

[Philbiker]

A "good" bridge is one that holds the strings solidly and allows for whatever intonation and other adjustments that the user desires.

I personally think the original Fender bent-metal design is very good.

[Shelly]

Hi Phil,

I agree with you about the bent metal design on the MIA's...it gets the job done and I don't see a reason to change it.

OTOH, my MIM bridge doesn't allow me to adjust the action as low as I'd like.

[bassteban]

Originally Posted by Shelly

Thanks for your response. I didn't feel like you were rambling at all.

The reason I ask is because I have an SX bass and we know how much people talk about modding those. I can get a Gotoh for about $30.00, but I'm thinking "what for"? One thing that I do find annoying about the bridge is how the springs rattle on the screws sometimes, but I only hear it when I'm playing unplugged.

Thanks again!

To fix your spring rattle you might try this: Loosen the string of the rattling spring(if that makes sense), remove the intonation screw, stretch the spring slightly so that the tension is sufficient to stop it rattling. Slap it all(carefully ) back together. $30 saved.

Edit: Also be aware that if the Gotoh's mounting screw holes don't line up w/the SX's you will of course have to drill new ones. A minor operation but if you misalign it that new bridge won't acheive anything. From my own limited experience I can tell you it's very easy to screw a decent-playing instrument up fairly completely.

[bassteban]

Originally Posted by Shelly

...my MIM bridge doesn't allow me to adjust the action as low as I'd like.

This sounds like sloppy construction or possibly other adjustment issues- not that I'm an expert, but it seems that the bridge should allow you to adjust your action as low as you want, w/in reason & playability. 2 more of my cents.

[Shelly]

Originally Posted by bassteban

This sounds like sloppy construction or possibly other adjustment issues- not that I'm an expert, but it seems that the bridge should allow you to adjust your action as low as you want, w/in reason & playability. 2 more of my cents.

You would think so, wouldn't you? The issue I have is with the B string. If I used a tapered string though, the action is low enough.

[PauperBoy]

The orginal bridge on my p bass had a buzz that was being amplified, and after a couple of failed attempts to eliminate the buzzing, I replaced it with a BAII.

I also grooved the BAII with a Dremel to get maximum string to saddle contact & lower action. Also adjusted the truss rods to attain the relief & action I wanted.

The BAII is a denser metal, the saddles have much more contact with the bridge, and the bridge footprint is much larger than the bent metal bridge... all of these add up to a tighter coupling of the string vibration with the body of the guitar, as compared with the oe bridge.

And as an aside, the change in sound was a pleasant surprise.

Hope this helps.

[saxofunk]

Why do people replace bridges...?

That part I can answer.
Short answer: because stock bridges are sometime junk.

Or: To add features that aren't there to start with.

Long answer: The stock bridge on my Toby Deluxe began to bend away from the body. It was pot metal and the screws were too far forward to keep it well anchored at the business end. I replaced with with a Hipshot B. This gave me the opportunity to get a bridge with added features, the option to string through-body and speed-load.

I wanted string through just because I think it's cool - there is no doubt the strings are well anchored. Then there's that mumbo jumbo about tone and sustain, which is subjective, so I won't tell anyone to go swapping hardware for that reason.

Speed loading is a nice feature, even if you don't change strings frequently. With coated strings it is almost a necessary option because you can just clip the ball in and wind them up, there's no risk of damaging the coating that way.

For your points 1 & 3, I say yes, those are good reasons.
For #2, any talk about sustain, tone, or other fabulous results of changing a bridge are subjective. When I changed my bridge I also drilled holes in the body, changed strings, tweaked pickup height and did a complete setup... I think my E string sounds better with this bridge, but there's not any sciene to support that.

As to your issue, I don't really know if a new bridge is a fix unless you get into filing saddles off... there's only going to be so much space between the bottom of the saddle and the plate. I suppose if you file 1/16" off the bottom of a saddle it wouldn't make much difference, so long as the barrell is threaded all the way through and the screw can stay put.

[EricF]

As noted by previous posters, a good bridge is one that adjusts properly and stays put.

Bigger and heavier = better? I guess that depends on your definition of "better". Personally, I don't like what the BAII did for me, and have happily gone back to Fender's standard bridges.

[Shelly]

Thanks to everyone for answering my question/giving their viewpoints...you are all appreciated!

[Human Bass]

Originally Posted by EricF

As noted by previous posters, a good bridge is one that adjusts properly and stays put.

This is the truth plain and simple.

[WeeMann]

I replaced the bridge on my Mexican Jazz about 10 years ago with a Badass 11 and it improved the tone quite noticably. The strings were suddenly ringing a lot clearer and the sustain was definitely improved.

As a result, when I got my Precision I changed the bridge on that too. The improvement wasn't as marked, but I could definitely hear an improvement.

The one thing I would say about the Badass over the original Fender is that once you've set it, it stays set - both the original bridges suffered from the intonation screw on the G string saddle loosening over time (as they are not under tension from the spring) which leads to problems when re-stringing.

[blipndub]

Sometimes the saddels in lesser quality bridges will "wander" from side to sideand a better quality bridge will be less inclined to do this thus improving tuning and intonation.

[gimmeagig]

Check out ABM bridges.I have them on all my basses.They are great!

[DopplerShift]

I like the bridge designs that tighten all the saddles together like on Musicman and G&L basses. The MMs have 2 posts that compress the saddles when you screw in the intonation screws, and th G&Ls have a hex nut that you srew in to compress the saddles together. To me when played acoustically, these basses have more attack and sustain than when the saddles are all loose like on MIM fender bridges or MIA bridges with the little grooves for the saddle screws. Grooves don't hold the saddles tight like mechanical compression.

[whacker]

I've had two basses where to get the g-string down to where I like it (around 3/32" at the 12th fret), it wouldn't do it even with the saddle bottomed out, so I had to shim the neck on one (to tilt it back) and adjust for tilt back on the other (a Fender with tilt adjustment). I didn't feel filing the saddle was a good idea at the time.

Obvious tip: If you know your saddle height adjustment screws are loose or vibrate out easily, by all means take the step of securing them with something like clear nail polish (easily broken when needed), or Loctite (a little tougher)

[Jazzin']

I like a nice sturdy bridge. One that does not have floppy saddles.