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07-25-2010, 03:10 AM
|  | Dang it, Dale! | | | | | What is the proper way of drilling holes in a control plate?
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I want to drill a hole for a mini 3-way switch on a jazz bass control plate.
Like the Reggie Hamilton control plate, but not costing $20.
How should I prepare it and what do I do?
__________________ That's asinine! | 
07-25-2010, 04:36 AM
|  | GOLD Supporting Member | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Cape Cod, MA | | | Set it up on a drill press with the proper sized drills and reamer. | 
07-25-2010, 07:49 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: USA | | | I would also put masking tape over the location and mark the spot for the new hole. The masking tape will help prevent the chips from scratching the control plate. Be sure and use a center punch to make a divot for the bit to start in so it won't "walk" and scar the plate.
A hand drill can be used if you have a steady hand.
Screw the plate to a block of wood so you can have a firm grip on the piece to prevent rotation and hand injury if the drill bit hangs in the plate for either method.
mech
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07-25-2010, 08:43 AM
| | | | Control plates are pretty tough stuff. Average hardware store drill bits (HSS) will be destroyed by them unless you dial down the RPM's.
An old machinist's trick is to de-temper the steel in the area where the hole is to be bored. Here's how to do it. Clamp the plate to the table of a drill press. Chuck up a nail in the drill press. Set the speed up high. Run the nail down and spin on the plate. The idea is to use friction to spot heat the plate. This will soften the temper. The tip of the nail will turn blue. Allow the plate to cool. Remove the nail from the chuck. Install the bit, turn the speed down, and bore the hole. Use a tapered reamer to clean up the hole when you're done.
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Last edited by 202dy : 07-25-2010 at 09:07 AM.
Reason: syntax
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07-25-2010, 08:56 AM
|  | GOLD Supporting Member | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Cape Cod, MA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by 202dy Control plates are pretty tough stuff. Average hardware store drill bits (HSS) will be destroyed by them unless you dial down the RPM's.
An old machinist's trick is to de-temper the steel in the area where the hole is to be bored. Here's how to do it. Clamp the plate to the table of a drill press. Chuck up a nail in the drill press. Set the speed up high. Run the nail down and spin on the plate. The idea is to use friction spot heat the plate. This will soften the temper. The tip of the nail will turn blue. Allow the plate to cool. Remove the nail from the chuck. Install the bit, turn the speed down, and bore the hole. Use a tapered reamer to clean up the hole when you're done. | Very good advice....should have mentioned it! I disagree with the hand drill idea, find a drill press.... | 
07-25-2010, 09:06 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by joinercape ...should have mentioned it! I disagree with the hand drill idea, find a drill press.... | Hand drills are a poor choice for this operation. When boring a hole in a steel plate at some point the bit will "grab" the plate and turn it into a high speed propeller. It's a good way to injure your fretting hand. Even when dimpled, the drill bit has a tendency to walk on the plate. The hole might not be where you wanted it to be.
A drill press is safer to use and will give much better results. It is safer for the operator. The quality of the work will be superior.
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Last edited by 202dy : 07-25-2010 at 09:07 AM.
Reason: Syntax
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07-25-2010, 09:31 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: West Richland, WA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Senator I want to drill a hole for a mini 3-way switch on a jazz bass control plate.
Like the Reggie Hamilton control plate, but not costing $20.
How should I prepare it and what do I do? | 1. Mark your proposed hole with a marker (like a sharpie).
2. Use a prick punch and punch your mark.
3. Use a 1/8" twist drill to drill your pilot hole.
4. Drill your full sized hole.
5. Ream or file the edges of the hole if they are rough.
Things to remember...
Remove the plate from the bass and remove all components.
Take care to not mar your plate when marking or drilling.
Make sure the plate is secure before doing any drilling.
Use a piece of wood to support the back side of the plate when drilling.
Joe. | 
07-25-2010, 09:48 AM
|  | just a BassGuy! Endorsing Joiner & Ben Lindsey Basses - Maker: XB Custom Cables | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Twin Cities, MN | | | SECURING PLATE: I've used the mounting holes and screw the plate to a backing piece of wood to secure it.
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07-25-2010, 09:57 AM
|  | Endorsing Artist: Wild Turkey Bourbon | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: The Wilds of NW Pa. | | Quote:
Originally Posted by ExaltBass SECURING PLATE: I've used the mounting holes and screw the plate to a backing piece of wood to secure it. | That works. And, if you don't have a vise, clamp the backing board to the bench or bench press table.
__________________ Carpe Mammatas | 
07-25-2010, 10:23 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: USA | | Quote: |
202dy....Hand drills are a poor choice for this operation. When boring a hole in a steel plate at some point the bit will "grab" the plate and turn it into a high speed propeller. It's a good way to injure your fretting hand.
| Please see my previous post.... Quote: |
mech...Screw the plate to a block of wood so you can have a firm grip on the piece to prevent rotation and hand injury if the drill bit hangs in the plate for either method.
| And on using a hand drill...not everyone has access to a drill press. Used with a little caution and care, a hand drill is perfectly adequate for this operation and others like it that don't require perpendicular holes. I've drilled so many holes in sheet metal it'd probably make your eyes bleed.
I've also never seen a control plate on any instrument the was made of anything other than mild steel, brass or aluminum or any material that needed to be de-tempered. Firearms yes, guitars no.
A 5 minute process has been made very complicated.
mech
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07-25-2010, 10:39 AM
|  | Registered Bass Offender | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Cambria, CA (Central Coast) | | Quote:
Originally Posted by mech I've drilled so many holes in sheet metal it'd probably make your eyes bleed. | Especially if you don't wear eye protection 
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07-25-2010, 10:56 AM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Long Beach, CA | | | Can't be said too many times,
1. Quality SHARP drill bit(s)
2. Center punch
3. Drill Press on slow speed
Screwing it to a piece of wood to hold onto is a good idea, but also another piece of metal the same hardness directly under it will reduce burrs on the back side.
Andy
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07-25-2010, 11:06 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: USA | | Quote:
Rick Auricchio...Especially if you don't wear eye protection. | Fer sure...them hot chips can sting. 
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07-25-2010, 11:24 AM
|  | Endorsing Artist: Wild Turkey Bourbon | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: The Wilds of NW Pa. | | Quote:
Originally Posted by mech Fer sure...them hot chips can sting.  | Hear, hear ... eyes, ears, & fingers you don't get back.
__________________ Carpe Mammatas | 
07-26-2010, 12:22 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by 202dy Hand drills are a poor choice for this operation. When boring a hole in a steel plate at some point the bit will "grab" the plate and turn it into a high speed propeller. It's a good way to injure your fretting hand. Even when dimpled, the drill bit has a tendency to walk on the plate. The hole might not be where you wanted it to be.
A drill press is safer to use and will give much better results. It is safer for the operator. The quality of the work will be superior. | Not everyone has access to a drill press. I didn't, and using a hand drill with a C clamp and a Turbomax drill bit worked out just fine. As long as you get a good bit, like Turbomax, titanium or cobalt, with the proper tip (they'll advertise on the packaging "NO WALKING") you shouldn't have any trouble using a hand drill. Just make sure you use proper safety protocol/equipment, and don't do anything stupid (i.e., neglecting to use C-clamp.)
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Originally Posted by Ed Friedland People say a lot of stupid ****. | | 
07-26-2010, 02:19 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | Regardless of how you drill it, I REALLY like the idea of screwing that metal plate to a wood block. Drill bits have a bad habit of grabbing metal plates and spinning them around very quickly - which can be extremely dangerous.
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07-26-2010, 11:33 PM
| | Registered User Endorsing: Ampeg | | Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Apopka, FL | | Quote:
Originally Posted by joinercape Set it up on a drill press with the proper sized drills and reamer. | huh huh...he said "reamer." heh heh...huh huh!
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07-27-2010, 12:43 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | There's a band name in there: "The Reamers".
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07-29-2010, 06:08 PM
|  | Dang it, Dale! | | | | Wow. Thank you for your replies!
I was about to settle on using a hand drill, but a friend told me that he had a drill press, clamps, etc. - Wear protection.
- Cover plate with masking tape.
- Mark proposed hole with a Sharpie.
- Screw plate onto a 2x4.
- Use center punch on marked spot.
- Drill 1/8" hole into divot.
- Drill 1/4".
- File rough edges.
Sound about right?
Just to make sure, can anyone else confirm if a DPDT switch will fit the 1/4" hole?
__________________ That's asinine!
Last edited by Senator : 07-29-2010 at 06:11 PM.
Reason: Just to make sure...
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07-29-2010, 06:16 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: West Richland, WA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Senator Wow. Thank you for your replies!
I was about to settle on using a hand drill, but a friend told me that he had a drill press, clamps, etc. - Wear protection.
- Cover plate with masking tape.
- Mark proposed hole with a Sharpie.
- Screw plate onto a 2x4.
- Use center punch on marked spot.
- Drill 1/8" hole into divot.
- Drill 1/4".
- File rough edges.
Sound about right?
Just to make sure, can anyone else confirm if a DPDT switch will fit the 1/4" hole? | Well...some will and some wont.
You need to physically check to be sure...unless you have the spec sheet for the switch.
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