When a truss rod goes loose

[rodl2005]

What's the story when the truss rod goes loose?
I recently got a "mint" Epi Jack Casady & the neck needs a little more relief- she's a bit TOO Straight & is nearly unplayable. I tried adjusting the truss rod, but after a 1/4 turn to LOOSEN it goes loose itself. Turning it back the OTHER way(clock-wise) it'll 'grab' again & feel like it's functioning as normal.
I've had 30+ yrs experience in gigging , probly 15 yrs in setting up my own basses, but I've never had a truss rod that's done this.
Any help appreciated!!
Thanks,
Rod

[johnk_10]

usually, if you leave it just barely loose for a week or two, the string tension should pull it up into an adjustable range.

if not, i've had good sucess with heat treating a neck to remove a stubborn back bow.

[rodl2005]

Originally Posted by johnk_10

usually, if you leave it just barely loose for a week or two, the string tension should pull it up into an adjustable range.

if not, i've had good sucess with heat treating a neck to remove a stubborn back bow.

Thanks for that John. I was actually thinking the 'fairly' thick guage flats-Labella Jamerson's IIRC - might do SOMETHING to help, So with your help here, It seems I MAY be on the right track. I'll see how this goes & MAY quizz you re the heat treatment.
Cheers.
Rod

[johnk_10]

i don't think you'll have any problems removing the relief with a set of the la bella's. roto 77's might do it too.

if you want, you can also try leaving the rod relaxed, and tune the bass up a 1/2 or whole step while it's 'learning' where it should be to speed up the process.

[JGR]

I have a guitar with a similar issue - the winter seasonal change seems to have helped things as it is perfect now. Hope it stays that way in the spring.

[lareamond]

I had a similar issue with my Hondo. It didn't have strings on it for 20 years, propped against the wall face first. The neck was TOO straight. Truss adjustments didn't give it any relief. I loosened it all the way and had to put it in a cradle, with a C-clamp in the middle for 2 weeks to give it some relief, as I didn't have the proper tools. It worked, and now it's playable. In a week, I'll tighten the truss some more a day at a time until it gets the relief I want.

[rodl2005]

Originally Posted by johnk_10

i don't think you'll have any problems removing the relief with a set of the la bella's. roto 77's might do it too.

if you want, you can also try leaving the rod relaxed, and tune the bass up a 1/2 or whole step while it's 'learning' where it should be to speed up the process.

Yes I know what you mean re the pretty high tension of these strings, Thanks for the further info. Greatly appreciated!!!

Thankyou also JGR & lareamond for your input. Will try this stuff out now. I'll report back after.

Thanks again.

Rod

[tjh]

I have never had one, but I guess that is why they make some necks with 2-way truss rods ... good luck, I have one in a clamp right now trying to bring it back the other way ...

[rodl2005]

STILL not getting enough relief for being able to USE this bass. :-(

Any more hints???

[johnk_10]

i would loosen the rod and put it in a clamp/brace system that evenly bends the neck forward. i heat treat them to speed up the process (basically, to warp it straight), but if you're patient, it'll add some relief if you leave it in the clamp for a week or two.

[rodl2005]

OK thanks John.. I'll tentatively- give it a try..... might be back in touch.... never done this sorta thing before. Scary!!

[T-Bird]

Hi.

Originally Posted by johnk_10

i would loosen the rod and put it in a clamp/brace system that evenly bends the neck forward. i heat treat them to speed up the process (basically, to warp it straight), but if you're patient, it'll add some relief if you leave it in the clamp for a week or two.

IME, that only works for a year or so.

The problem is most likely a worn out or incorrectly sharpened
fret-slot blade, if the FB has been stable in the first place that is.

The only remedy that I have found to last, is to replace the frets, preferably with ones that are a better fit with the FB slots.

A condition like Yours is very common with non-pro fret jobs.

Regards
Sam

[johnk_10]

Originally Posted by T-Bird

Hi.



IME, that only works for a year or so.

Sam

if you use heat, it's permanent.

[T-Bird]

Hi.

Originally Posted by johnk_10

if you use heat, it's permanent.

Only IME, again, but no it wasn't.

The amount heat needed for permanent change in the structure of the wood would ruin the finish and alter the properties of the glue as well.

Regards
Sam

[johnk_10]

hmmm. also IME , for me, it has worked everytime and i never needed to address one again.

[JLS]

Originally Posted by T-Bird

Hi.



Only IME, again, but no it wasn't.

The amount heat needed for permanent change in the structure of the wood would ruin the finish and alter the properties of the glue as well.

Regards
Sam

I just heat treated a Gibson SG neck yesterday, it shows no signs of this at all.

[rodl2005]

How you say 'heat treat' ????? I mean -in English- Do you mean using a heat AIR type gun- like a industrial Hair dryer?? Or use lower heat from -eg. a bar radiator- over a longer time?

[johnk_10]

you can use a blow dryer on the high setting. it should get it pretty hot. i usually use a blow dryer when it's in the clamp on the problem area, and then leave it in a room that's 110-120 degrees for 24 hrs. then i let it cool down (still clamped), and repeat the process at least 3 times. so far, it has worked every time for me.

[rodl2005]

Thanx John.

Appreciate it!

Rod

[Skyblue977]

Can't send it back to Marius Rod?