where to find boiled linseed oil?

[mindflow]

i looked through the forums for a long time but i couldnt find anything on where to buy boiled linseed oil. it seems like most agree that it is the thing to use to keep your fingerboard in shape. does anyone know a good place to buy it?

[Gander]

I bought some at my local hardware store.

[_j_]

I think I got mine at home depot.

[notabob]

ive never had my boiled linseed oil combust...you can buy boiled linseed oil at home depot in a big tin container thingy. the time when its know to combust is if you leave the cloth you used to apply it with sitting around unwashed. i juat soak the cloth in water until i have a load of laundry to throw it in with.

[ironfist]

It's been a known fact that stain rags can spontaneously combust... many a woodworker has thrown a couple of stain rags in a trash can only to have a fire on his hands after a couple of hours! My father is a carpenter and when I lived at home I used to tinker in the basement. He always had a bunch of cans of half-empty stains and varnishes that I'd use on various (usually failed) projects of my own design. I used to heap used rags in a pile back then, but lucky for me no fire every occurred. If you take the proper precautions, it won't be a problem.

[Bob Rogers]

The products mentioned in this thread have pretty different properties. I get my info on this from Bob Flexner's book which I recommend highly. Huge amount of scientific info on finishing products. The chemists I know say it is accurate.

Lemon oil is scented petroleum-distillate solvent. It does a good job of cleaning gunk off a fingerboard and leaves the board shiny and smelling like lemons for a short time. It does not provide any type of barrier to moisture.

Boiled linseed oil is made from flax oil that has been heated. It will penetrate the wood and darken it, and oil left on the surface will cure to film finish, but the film is very soft so it must be left thin. It provides some barrier to moisture.

Tru oil is linseed oil that has been "polymerized" by heating (further than boiled oil) to 500 degrees in an oxygen free environment. It cures harder and provides a better moisture barrier than other types of oil finishes. It can be wiped on like other oil finishes.

I don't know what "butcher's block oil" is, but I would guess that it is based on something tasetless and nontoxic like mineral oil, (which is what I use for cutting boards).

I use lemon oil to clean unfinished rosewood or ebony boards when needed, but my hands are rather dry and not as acidic as some people's.

The products mentioned should all be safe if you use good safety precautions for flamable liquid. Any good book on woodworking should give good tips.

[jpo259]

I use boiled linseed oil on both of my fretless' fingerboards, AND all over my Warwick body and neck. Works for my Lee-Enfields, Mausers, Springfields, Garands, works for my Warwick! And, I get it at Home Depot. And that thing about spontaneous combustion...at the FBI post-blast course I went to back in 1996, we TRIED to get linseed oil-soaked rags to self- ignite!! Couldn't do it. It is definately a matter of time and atmospheric conditions. Us bomb disposaliers believe it has to be hot and dry in the place where the rags are to ignite. Hey, did you know you can make a 'powder train' time fuse out of a line of Lays potato chips???!!! Lay 'em out end to end from start to finish, light up, walk away!!! They WILL propagate!! Wait, I shouldn't be telling ya'all stuff like that!!!!!

[jifdeng3]

linseed oil will combust if rags are left balled up in a place where they cannot keep cool.(garage corner, trash can, etc) As the linseed oil breaks down, (decays) it causes heat. Make sure any rags are dryed out before storage. Just a thought from your friendly fireman bass player!!!