Wood filled that is not drying

[Lowner]

Ok I think I messed up the defret on my neck. I filled in the spaces where the old frets were with wood putty but it just wont set up right. The putty is still the same consistency that is was when i applied it. the directions say that i sets up and dries in 4 -6 hours and it been 24 hours. I want to polyuerthane this thing and put my basss back together cause I am dying to play it. Will it ever dry???

[guy n. cognito]

What kind of wood putty did you use? Is wood putty a common filler for a defret?

[62bass]

Originally Posted by Lowner

Ok I think I messed up the defret on my neck. I filled in the spaces where the old frets were with wood putty but it just wont set up right. The putty is still the same consistency that is was when i applied it. the directions say that i sets up and dries in 4 -6 hours and it been 24 hours. I want to polyuerthane this thing and put my basss back together cause I am dying to play it. Will it ever dry???

Without knowing what you used it's pretty hard to tell what's going on. But, if you applied it according to the directions and the temperature is right, it should have set up in less than 24 hrs. Maybe it was old, or if you needed to add a catalyst you didn't add the right amount.

If it's still not dry I'd scrape it out and fill it with something I could trust to dry hard.

[Giraffe]

I've used putty I bought at home centers like Lowe's or Home Depot that never seemed to want to get hard. A carpenter friend told me that some putty intended for window glazing, etc. is formulated to stay somewhat flexible so it will retain a tight seal as the wood it was applied to expands and contracts without causing leaks. You probably have something like that. I decided to stay away from anything that is called putty, and use wood filler or some other product instead.

You might check out a local high-end woodworker's store like Rockler. The guys that work in there usually know the products pretty well, or will direct you to another sales guy who does. Buy a cabinet scraper ( a flat 3" x 6" piece of steel with a hooked edge) and a burnisher/sharpener while you are there. It is a great tool for removing your mistakes, and for getting the surface level when you have the new stuff in there. Like they say, "Practice on scrap!"

Another consideration is using some hard sheet plastic or vinyl to fill the kerfs. Using a softer material to fill the slots can, in very rare circumstances, weaken the neck a little bit. The plastic material stays bright and easier to see after a few years of oiling the board. This may be good or bad, depending on whether you like or need (like me) to be able to see the slots.

[62bass]

Yes, if it's putty for window glazing, or some of the sealants used under paint for wood filling, it's for sure the wrong product to use. These are designed to stay flexible.

See if you can find a small container of "spackling" at a paint supply store which will dry hard and can be sanded level when dry. Use a flat block of wood to avoid putting dips in the fingerboard. You want the fingerboard flat from end to end.

Yes, plastic does work well as does thin wood veneer, but it's a bit more work.

[Lowner]

I scraped all the wood putty out of the frets and put spackle on it. It is drying hard. But can I put a stain over it since it is pure white and i just dont like the white lines it is leaving where the frets were?

[62bass]

Spackling will take a bit of stain when dry but will never match the existing wood. You could have tinted the spackle before applying and it would have been closer. If you want to do that now, take a tool and scrape out a little bit in each fret slot, make up a tinted batch, and re-apply. When dry, sand it level.

Check the spackle and see what the solvent used is. Universal tinting colours sold in paint stores may work. I can't recall what the last spackle I used was.

It's becoming quite complicated now, isn't it?

That's why guys who refinish or restore furniture charge big bucks. I've just been restoring all the old wood trim in our house and it's been a real challenge. It sure looks good though. I used to do this as a part time job so have some experience at it. Only wealthy homeowners are willing to pay for jobs like this, but if you know ahat you're doing it can be lucrative and rewarding. I'm too old to do it full time now.

[Giraffe]

The regular application of linseed oil will dim those bright white lines over time, but if you need results now try 62's stain procedures BEFORE you seal the filler with oil. The oil will makes the filler less friendly to soak up stain.

If you have a leather shop, or even a good shoe store or cobbler nearby, you might check out Fiebing's Oil Dye as well. This stuff penetrates like mad. I believe it is alcohol based. If you use cordovan it will probably match a rosewood board to some degree. Maybe light brown. Get some of that filler laid out on scrap so you can test what any stain or dye will do before you lay it on your board. You'll want to do all your leveling first.

[62bass]

Yes, leather dye, which is alcohol based, works on just about anything.

Be careful as the solvents in the first coat of finish you put on over it may cause it to smear even when the stain is dry. Don't rub it in hard.