"Zeroing Out" a New Badass II Bridge

[Baker69]

Originally Posted by selowitch

Since we know already that the scale of my bass is 34", can this step be skipped?

Oh, and another thing I'm wondering about with reference to the Badass: the closer the saddles get to the rear end of the bass, the more tense the springs become. As a practical matter, it doesn't seem like you could force them much further back than the space just over or ahead of the mounting screws in any case -- am I right about this?

Yes, just measure 17" from the 12th fret (fret wire) to the centre of the bridge on the G string.

If you're having to crank the saddles that far back you've passed the point of intonation. I believe the intonation point is within a very small movement margin so you can easily pass it.

If your strings are too high it could also give a false reading. Use a tuner and do a 12th fret harmonic on the string in question, don't hold the string down (unless the action is very low) otherwise you're actually stretching the string past it's intonation and will be trying to make the string "longer" which is possiblt why you are now finding the saddle is very very close to the bridge.

[selowitch]

Wow. Seems like there a lot of ways one can screw this up! I have half a mind to take this to a tech, although I would really like to know how to do this myself.

[SteveC]

I've always started mine where they were on the old bridge and gone from there. I place the bridges side by side and rough out the saddle placement as a stating point. It has worked fine.

[lug]

You will never have to go shorter than 17" on any string from the 12th fret on a 34" scale bass. By putting it "in the middle" you are just eliminating some adjustment room for heavier, thicker strings. In other words, your adjustments will always be 17"+ from the 12th fret on any string.

[Baker69]

Originally Posted by selowitch

Wow. Seems like there a lot of ways one can screw this up! I have half a mind to take this to a tech, although I would really like to know how to do this myself.

Try it yourself first, it really isn't that difficult just take your time and don't get flustered with it.

Just concentrate on trying to get the 1st (G) string done first then you will understand the basics of it. Don't forget to keep re-tuning the bass after each adjustment of the saddle position.

[selowitch]

Originally Posted by lug

You will never have to go shorter than 17" on any string from the 12th fret on a 34" scale bass. By putting it "in the middle" you are just eliminating some adjustment room for heavier, thicker strings. In other words, your adjustments will always be 17"+ from the 12th fret on any string.

So one string might be at exactly 34", another at 34.25", yet another at 34.25", and another at 34.75" to intonate properly? That makes sense.

[lug]

Originally Posted by selowitch

So one string might be at exactly 34", another at 34.25", yet another at 34.25", and another at 34.75" to intonate properly? That makes sense.

Yep.