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10-21-2007, 06:50 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Toledo, Ohio | | | Removing Rosin From Strings? Is there an easy way to get the rosin off your strings? I have tried a rag, but that doesn't seem to work for me.
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Nick
If you want to shake the floor and frighten the cellists, you might want to try this bass
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10-21-2007, 07:44 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Houston, TX | | | Find a copper pot scrubber at your grocery store. I use the Chore Boy brand. This takes the rosin right off, and I I've yet to see it damage the string. | 
10-21-2007, 08:44 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Upstate NY | | | Do you wipe it off every time you play? If you do, it should be too tough to remove, perhaps a courser cloth?
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10-22-2007, 08:51 AM
| | | | all ya gotta do is put some isopropal alcohol on a rag and then rub it off. easy as 1 2 3, or maybe just 1 2 | 
10-22-2007, 01:11 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Atlanta, GA USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by bassplayer57 Is there an easy way to get the rosin off your strings? I have tried a rag, but that doesn't seem to work for me. | Your profile says you use cello rosin? What's up with that?
I've never tried cello rosin, but let me venture to guess that you might get better results with bass rosin. And you might not need to use nearly as much, which might reduce the build up on the strings.
For me, I wipe the strings with a stiff cloth after every tune I use the bow on. If you are worried about the appearance of your "rag", a linen handkerchief should do just fine. The best strategy is not to let the rosin build up. I find that the build up starts affecting the tone pretty quickly and makes the notes buzzy or thin.
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10-22-2007, 05:49 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Toledo, Ohio | | | I was kind of a little lax with the wiping every time I play, so I need to get the buildup off.
Now with the whole cello rosin thing, that is my rosin for the summer, for my bass rosin is WAY too soft for the summer, and it melts all over the place. I usually have some Pop's on hand for the cold winter months.
Now I will see what isopropyl alcohol will do. Do I need to rub the strings arfterwards with some water?
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If you want to shake the floor and frighten the cellists, you might want to try this bass
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10-22-2007, 07:00 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: the end of the section | | | Alcohol will work fine, no need to rinse. Be super careful not to get it on any varnish though. | 
10-22-2007, 09:41 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Flower Mound, TX. USA | | I use one of these after playing: http://www.pamperedchef.com/our_prod...ategoryCode=FH
But please don't tell my wife I "borrowed" it from the kitchen.
Followed by a wipe with an old towel. It no longer matches her decor, so I won't get in trouble.
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Last edited by EJ_Dad : 10-22-2007 at 09:44 PM.
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10-23-2007, 04:53 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: The Pacific Northwest | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyNaeger Find a copper pot scrubber at your grocery store. I use the Chore Boy brand. This takes the rosin right off, and I I've yet to see it damage the string. | This is the right idea. I find that a copper scourer followed by a quick wipe with a rag is the best way to clean my strings. There was a thread about cleaning strings recently in the "strings" section. Can be found here: college student looking for cheap way to clean strings??? | 
11-10-2007, 03:44 PM
| | | | I know how you feel. Even after wiping the strings down every time you play and you have removed all visible residue they still feel sticky so here's the process I usually use for cleaning off my stings.
1) Wipe the strings every time you play (it's not entirely necessary but it makes it so you don't have to do a serious cleaning every time).
2) Play for a few minutes. When you do need to clean the strings do it right after you play as the rosin will be warmer and likely more pliable, although a bit more sticky.
3) Use a cloth diaper, piece of an old shirt, or something else you don't care about to squeeze the string and slide your hand with the cloth down the string up to the bridge. You need to apply a pretty significant amount of pressure and its likely to make an ungodly racket but that's just part of the process. Continue that until you get all the rosin off that was caked on.
4) Once you are to the point where your strings are just sticky but appear nearly clean, you're ready for the rubbing alcohol. Apply just a little bit (its better to use less and avoid dripping than to overdo it and risk ruining your finish) onto the same rag you used to wipe the strings off using similar technique as in step 3. Repeat this step as many times as necessary, using a new section of the cloth each time.
At this point, the arco section of the strings between the fingerboard and the bridge should feel even smoother and cleaner than the strings near the upper neck. Now you're ready to play again without that sticky, dreadful attack at the beginning of the note.
I've used this process and it's worked even on ridiculously sticky rosin such as Pops. Hope it works as well for you. | 
11-10-2007, 04:27 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Madison, WI/Indianapolis, IN | | | Use DENATURED ALCOHOL, but take care not to drip, cuz alcohol eats varnish for breakfast lunch and dinner. The best way to do this is to get a little on the rag then lean the bass forward so anything that drips will fall on the floor not the bass. | 
11-10-2007, 06:09 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Connecticut, USA | | | +1 on using cloth diapers (soft and durable) as a regular wipe-down cloth after you play. I find that I only need to use alcohol to remove excess rosin only occasionally. (Gregorian's soft oak) | 
11-17-2007, 04:02 AM
| | | | yeah, metho! Use metholated spitits and a rag, but if you do don't use alot cos then you'll have this residue on the strings and it makes bowing more laborious.
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11-24-2007, 07:00 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Virginia Beach | | | I just always used a scotch scour pad.
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11-25-2007, 12:34 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2006 Location: Houston, Tx | | | I use rubbing alchohol and an old sock. I clean it before gigs and recordings, it seems to make the tone clearer and the harmonics come out easier. | 
11-29-2007, 07:59 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Atco, NJ | | | Steel Wool I learned this from a member of the Philadelphia Orchestra. I use #0000 grade steel wool. It is super fine steel wool that will not damages the strings. Clean them a few minutes after you stop playing,(the rosin cools down and is easy to wipe off) and it will prolong the life of your strings. A pack of 16 pads from the store is $3-$4. This should last a few years depending on how often you practice. I wrap the wool in a cloth so the spent rosin does not touch the inside of my bow case pocket. | 
11-29-2007, 06:51 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: The Pacific Northwest | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JJDMusic I learned this from a member of the Philadelphia Orchestra. I use #0000 grade steel wool. It is super fine steel wool that will not damages the strings. Clean them a few minutes after you stop playing,(the rosin cools down and is easy to wipe off) and it will prolong the life of your strings. A pack of 16 pads from the store is $3-$4. This should last a few years depending on how often you practice. I wrap the wool in a cloth so the spent rosin does not touch the inside of my bow case pocket. | I have gotten this recommendation before as well, but I found that steel wool of that fine a grade tends to leave tiny bits of steel wool dust on the front of the instrument. IMO, it seems like it might damage the finish on the instrument to wipe this dust off. Maybe I just got a particularly bad piece of steel wool, but the copper scourers work best for me. I guess it seems like they could damage the strings, but I haven't ever had any problems. | 
12-14-2007, 05:19 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand | | | If super-fine steel wool works, then you could also use super-fine Scotchbrite, which won't shed. But +1 on the isopropyl. Meths/denatured alcohol works too (and so would Vodka in a pinch!) but isopropyl won't instantly destroy the varnish if you get a drop on it. Disadvantage is that it will be a bit slower… but there's no getting around that, because rosin and varnish are both based on shellac, and so they both dissolve in the same range of solvents. | 
12-14-2007, 05:33 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Beaverton, OR | | | Alcohol swabs (the things the nurses use to clean your skin before giving you an injection) work great. They are cheap, come in individual foil pouches, and you can throw a handful into you bass bag. Most pharmacies carry them. | 
12-14-2007, 05:41 PM
| | | | My lessons teacher will use mens aftershave *not sure on the brand* to clean the strings, since it is basically the same thing as rubbing alcohol, that and she likes the smell of aftershave alot more then rubbing alcohol | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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