LED theory needed

[MNAirHead]

Howdy

If I understand correctly led lights run and operate in dc series

I just bought some that need to have the computer controller board bypassed (always on)

Any tips appreciated

Tim

[ggunn]

Originally Posted by MNAirHead

Howdy

If I understand correctly led lights run and operate in dc series

I just bought some that need to have the computer controller board bypassed (always on)

Any tips appreciated

Tim

Yes, LEDs operate on DC. When you buy some the operating voltage will be shown on the packaging.

Other than that, I don't know what you are asking.

[MNAirHead]

I'll get more details - still in the testing phase

[JohnMCA72]

LED = "Light Emitting Diode". Like any diode, it conducts electric current in 1 direction only. That's why it works in a DC circuit, not AC, & then only if it's installed with proper polarity (although there are some "AC" LEDs, that are actually dual LEDs). Like any diode, it has some resistance (but not much, & needs a current-limiting resistor in series) & therefore some voltage drop across it in a circuit.

I don't understand your comment about some LEDs needing to have a computer controller board bypassed. LEDs are very primitive electronic devices & don't "know" anything about a computer controller board. Put one in a circuit, with proper polarity, put a voltage between the spec'd minimum & maximum on the anode, & it lights up - nothing more going on than that, really.

[MNAirHead]

Computer bypass= blown computer (lightning) .... Wiring for always on

[ggunn]

Originally Posted by MNAirHead

Computer bypass= blown computer (lightning) .... Wiring for always on

Is there a question in there somewhere?

[Chainsaw Willie]

Complete sentences = reader understanding
... Subject and predicate

[paparoof]

Originally Posted by MNAirHead

Computer bypass= blown computer (lightning) .... Wiring for always on

Seems pretty clear to me:

Lightning fried the control board in his LED lights, so he's looking for help bypassing the board and sending power straight to the LEDs so they're just on 100% all the time - assuming they weren't also fried by lightning.

[MNAirHead]

Originally Posted by ggunn

Is there a question in there somewhere?

No.. a clarification answer/reply

Originally Posted by Chainsaw Willie

Complete sentences = reader understanding
... Subject and predicate

Unfortunately I am typing on a telephone.

[MNAirHead]

Originally Posted by paparoof

Seems pretty clear to me:

Lightning fried the control board in his LED lights, so he's looking for help bypassing the board and sending power straight to the LEDs so they're just on 100% all the time - assuming they weren't also fried by lightning.

Thank you - this is the correct intended clarification.

------
I've tested with a 9v battery - LEDs work
------

I'll type 300wpm when back at a full-sized keyboard.

[JohnMCA72]

OK, the context (stage lighting) makes it make much more sense.

"LED theory" is going to get into things like semiconductor properties, materials, gap widths, etc. that are complete irrelevant. What you have is a basic electronic repair problem. If you have a schematic for the device in question, it should be pretty easy to figure out how to make at least a partial repair.

The biggest question is, how isolated is the power supply from the control board? If they're integrated, you may have a big problem, especially if the blown-up component(s) are on the primary input side. The power supply's job is to convert 120V AC to DC at whatever voltage(s) are appropriate for the control electronics & the LEDs. The controller probably wants 5VDC. Most standard LEDs will also want 5VDC, but high-intensity ones might want something higher, like 12VDC, etc. If the power supply is blown (which sounds rather likely, from a lightning strike), you may be able to just "cut it out" of the board & substitute an external supply (or even more than 1, if necessary) to supply the required voltage(s).

There may be 1 or more inline fuses, and/or zener diode(s) on the primary side of the supply that were burned out & can be replaced pretty cheaply & easily. That would be ideal, & get you back to full functionality.

Worst case, if you can't ID sections of the control board, you may have to spend a bunch of time & trouble tracing out leads. There may be groups of individual LEDs that share a common driver. The driver may take TTL inputs from the controller & convert them to constant-current/variable-voltage (for dimming) output at some other (presumably higher) voltage (9V, 12V, 18V, 24V?) kind of like a relay. You may be able to isolate the drivers from their control logic & the LED power source. Then, apply 5VDC to the TTL inputs & the appropriate xVDC to the drivers' LED power inputs & it should all light up, which sounds like what you wanted to do. Lots of variables are involved, depending on the specific unit.

[JohnMCA72]

Originally Posted by MNAirHead

Thank you - this is the correct intended clarification.

------
I've tested with a 9v battery - LEDs work
------

I'll type 300wpm when back at a full-sized keyboard.

That's a big part of the battle. Basically, you can make your temporary 9V battery solution more permanent. Get a 9VDC power supply at Radio Shack, etc. & hook it up just like you did with the battery.

I'd be tempted to look/smell for burned components, & at least try to repair it to original functionality.

[MNAirHead]

This is the plan - probably using lap top power supply

[MNAirHead]

Originally Posted by JohnMCA72

That's a big part of the battle. Basically, you can make your temporary 9V battery solution more permanent. Get a 9VDC power supply at Radio Shack, etc. & hook it up just like you did with the battery.

I'd be tempted to look/smell for burned components, & at least try to repair it to original functionality.

Still trying to see if they'd sell me 3 computer controllers - guessing may be more expensive than new lights

[JohnMCA72]

Originally Posted by MNAirHead

Still trying to see if they'd sell me 3 computer controllers - guessing may be more expensive than new lights

When you factor in your own time & trouble, maybe - or maybe not. The controllers themselves may not be shot, if the lightning took out a common power supply (which may have had working protection for just this sort of thing).

[Munjibunga]

Originally Posted by MNAirHead

Thank you - this is the correct intended clarification.

------
I've tested with a 9v battery - LEDs work
------

I'll type 300wpm when back at a full-sized keyboard.

I can type 4,000,000 wpm, but I don't because people die. I try to keep it down below 2,000.

[mjbing]

My fastest ever was 24 wpm with at least 10 mistakes.