Powred Subs --- How to Install Question

[MNAirHead]

Howdy.

I have a chance to move from passive (non powered) to active.. these require a blanced signal

Question..

What frequency do you normally send a sub.. figure indoor variety and classic rock.. everyone DI (including e Drums)

Tim

[projectMalamute]

My crossover is at 100 Hz, which I'd say is pretty average. I've seen good sounding systems set up anywhere from 80 to 150.

I have a HPF at 30 Hz.

These are EAW 2x18 (SB528z) boxes with EAW 3 way (FR253e) tops.

[modulusman]

Originally Posted by MNAirHead

Howdy.

I have a chance to move from passive (non powered) to active.. these require a blanced signal

Question..

What frequency do you normally send a sub.. figure indoor variety and classic rock.. everyone DI (including e Drums)

Tim

What sub are you talking about?

[MNAirHead]

db sub 05...
never used...
2 each 15" 400w

absolutely zilch online manuals

[MNAirHead]

I looked in the Yamaha book and they really didn't cover this type of application.

IF I'm not a tone snob.. any problems crossing over higher... I understand the cabs are designed for a Xover point.

More at the theoretical stage.. haven't RTAd the setup yet.. have to rewire everything.

[MNAirHead]

here are the models.
dB TECHNOLOGIES: Professional Audio Active Subwoofers SUB 05 D

[MNAirHead]

issue will be that my mains are not active.. will be using a rack mount xover.

[modulusman]

Well those subs already have a built in crossover switchable either 90 or 120hz. I don't know how they will sound with an external crossover. Probably be a PITA running cables to the subs and then back to your power amp. You might be better using aux fed subs if your board has an aux out that you are not using.

[MNAirHead]

I have a rackmount crossover... not sure if I was clear...

Part of my question is that set of subs wants to Xover internally.. I can split before.

[MNAirHead]

The intial design of our PA was to Xover at 300hz

[MNAirHead]

I do understand that these are designed to be a 150k cab

[Nighttrain1127]

It looks like from the manual you want to run your Mains out from your board to the subs, Then from the subs link out to your mains amp input. The crossover in the subs will take everything below your set point out of your mains and there is no need for your rack crossover.

[walterw]

if you have a regular rack crossover, why not use it? split the signal at around 100Hz, send the highs to your tops amp like before, and send your lows to the subs. if you set the sub's own crossover to 120Hz, you effectively remove it from the equation, allowing your rack crossover to handle everything.

(also, a two-way system crossed at 300hz? that would put a bunch of bloated, muddy midrange into your subs.)

[MNAirHead]

300hz was what the intial designer for our IEM/DI band had design... right or wrong I'm not certain why...

it may be that we asked for articulate guitars and vocals.. rest compressed and pushed down...

We're currently running a full range passive for lows.. then full range passive for highs.. our upper end are 3 way..

[TimmyP]

Run from your house EQ to one of the inputs of the sub.

Push in the Link/Xover button.

Run from the sub output to the poweramp for the tops.

Adjust the sub level and polarity to taste.

[T-Bird]

Hi.

While people (me included ) do it constantly, just mixing and matching pieces of random gear just hoping it'll work seldom works in the real world. The people who can pull it off succesfully, have usually been doing it for years for a reason or another.

OP, if You'd provide any info at all about the mixing desk you're using and the cross-over You're using things could get a bit clearer. You might even be kind enough to tell what the passive tops are as well.

Generally, the sub cross-over point is below 130Hz because the subs aren't usually designed to reproduce accurately any higher and the transition from the sub to the tops can become tricky. The only reason to cross higher is when the woofer on the top can't take it, and the engineer moves the point upwards.

IME running the sub(s) from an AUX send gives the system some badly needed flexibility, but also requires considerably more work and knowledge. Especially if everyone goes direct.

Regards
Sam

[MNAirHead]

Thanks for the notes...

Long story short, I'm reengineering our complete system.

We're a 3 piece trio all IEM.. using a digital mixer... considering moving from 100% passive to 100% active and weighing the options.


Like you guys..... I'm probably the first to post "let us know what your complete system is and I can help you"


I'll diagragm it out (should anyways).

[Zooberwerx]

I'm using inexpensive passive subs but, if switching out to powered components, I'd go for the rackmount crossover as it provides added flexibility and cabling simplicity. The powered subs (add this the lexicon: pow-subs & pass-subs) require only power cords and balanced XLR cables, fine-tuning of all components can be done at the mixer rig. We replaced our dedicated dbx xover with a DriveRack which handles, amongst other tasks, xover freq's, slopes (LR, BW, etc.), and output levels. Best money I ever spent. Your xover should be more than adequate although the slopes may non-adjustable...not a big deal given the task at hand.

Riis

[MNAirHead]

Drive rack is one of the things I'm REALLY considering adding.. would solve this and a bunch of RTA issues.

[modulusman]

I thought I read on sound forum that it isn't a good idea to use an external crossover with a powered cab that already has a built in one. Something to do with different slopes and filters if IIRC.