Shortening rack power cables?

rjc309 · #1 05-14-2009, 01:57 AM

Alright, say what you will about power conditioners but I "accidentally" won a reasonably priced one on eBay and thus it's going in my rack.

Other than concern about resale, is there any reason I wouldn't want to tidy things up in the back by making the power cables from my other components shorter?

I'm sure you electronic guru's can shed some light on this....

Thanks!

bongomania · #2 05-14-2009, 02:08 AM

No problem at all, as long as you're good with a soldering iron and plenty of shrink tubing. Also you can buy short IEC cords from www.bayoucables.com and they even have a nifty Y-split short cord, just right for tidying up the back of a rack.

rjc309 · #3 05-14-2009, 02:19 AM

Butch made my custom Speakon cable. I'd be happy to use his services again but it seems he's a little backed up at the moment.

I'm plenty comfortable wiring and soldering my own audio cables, but I haven't tackled power cables since electronics class in high school. That teacher must have skipped the part about shrink tubing. Care to elaborate?

Zooberwerx · #4 05-14-2009, 05:29 AM

Why couldn't the OP just cut the power cords to the desired length and connect new plugs (Lowes, Home Depot, etc.)? I believe most have screw-clamp connectors, strain relief, and require no soldering.

Riis

RustyAxe · #5 05-14-2009, 07:07 AM

I bought some shorter IEC power cords from these guys ... they sell them in lengths of 6 to 48 inches.

http://www.markertek.com/Cables-Conn.../IEC-6X4.xhtml

rjc309 · #6 05-14-2009, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zooberwerx

Why couldn't the OP just cut the power cords to the desired length and connect new plugs (Lowes, Home Depot, etc.)? I believe most have screw-clamp connectors, strain relief, and require no soldering.

Riis

That's what I was thinking, but I don't mind doing the soldering if necessary...

Zooberwerx · #7 05-14-2009, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjc309

That's what I was thinking, but I don't mind doing the soldering if necessary...

Shouldn't have to solder anything. I just pulled apart the aftermarket plug on a Gomco suction and the terminal connections were all screw-type. This is handy information if you ever inadvertantly saw thru your hedge trimmer's power cord....like my neighbor did.

Riis

Jim Campbell · #8 05-14-2009, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zooberwerx

Why couldn't the OP just cut the power cords to the desired length and connect new plugs (Lowes, Home Depot, etc.)? I believe most have screw-clamp connectors, strain relief, and require no soldering.

Riis

i would consider spending the dough on good grade plug ends.........the hospital grade stuff requires no soldering and since you only need the plug end should be about 25 bucks us.......if you have occasion to sell the component you can include an original length cable and those can be found at the goodwill for about a buck,and keep the custom stuff for your rack

two fingers · #9 05-14-2009, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Campbell

i would consider spending the dough on good grade plug ends.........the hospital grade stuff requires no soldering and since you only need the plug end should be about 25 bucks us.......if you have occasion to sell the component you can include an original length cable and those can be found at the goodwill for about a buck,and keep the custom stuff for your rack

I'm an electrician. There's no need to buy $25 Hospital Grade stuff. Any decent plug will do. Tighten the screws really good. Open them up every few months and make sure they are still tight (I would do this with ANY after-market plug). This takes about a minute. As stated somewhere ^^^^^up there^^^^^^ get the ones with the strain relief. All that means is there is a little "clamp" on the plug that holds it in place so that you can't yank the wires out. Again, they should cost a few buck ($6 or $7 at most). No problem with doing this whatsoever. I don't know how handy you are, so if you need a hand, shoot me a PM and I'll walk you through it. If you are already really handy, and don't need my help, then tell me to shut up and mind my own beeswax!

Jim Campbell · #10 05-14-2009, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by two fingers

I'm an electrician. There's no need to buy $25 Hospital Grade stuff. Any decent plug will do. Tighten the screws really good. Open them up every few months and make sure they are still tight (I would do this with ANY after-market plug). This takes about a minute. As stated somewhere ^^^^^up there^^^^^^ get the ones with the strain relief. All that means is there is a little "clamp" on the plug that holds it in place so that you can't yank the wires out. Again, they should cost a few buck ($6 or $7 at most). No problem with doing this whatsoever. I don't know how handy you are, so if you need a hand, shoot me a PM and I'll walk you through it. If you are already really handy, and don't need my help, then tell me to shut up and mind my own beeswax!

every piece of ac that we used at work was hospital grade and failure was extremely rare,given the all weather constant use and abuse.....25 bucks is not a lot for reliability.....

JansenW · #11 05-14-2009, 10:23 AM

The Middle Atlantic IEC power cords are great. The cords are use twisted pairs (for lower noise) and can be ordered straight, low profile-left and low profile-right.

http://cableorganizer.com/middle-atl....html#features

two fingers · #12 05-14-2009, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Campbell

every piece of ac that we used at work was hospital grade and failure was extremely rare,given the all weather constant use and abuse.....25 bucks is not a lot for reliability.....

Sorry if I have offended. I'm a commercial/industrial electrician. It's just that I have wired up several hospitals (new construction). And to me, the term "hospital grade" is all hype. I'm happy for you if you have had good experiences with high-end plugs. I have never had a plug mess up on me over 20 years of traveling playing music. At 2a.m. four hours from home, I'm a chord yanker. I don't treat my equipment very well when it's time to go home. I've never spent more than a few bucks on a plug. Just sayin.

Zooberwerx · #13 05-14-2009, 10:47 AM

Probably want to avoid the big mambo assemblies as they may not fit side-by-side in the outlets. Actually, that pertains more to some power strips I've encountered. YMMV.

How 'bout some clarification?:

Black - hot / narrow blade

White - neutral / wide blade

Green - ground / the other thingy

Have your wife plug it in the first time to make sure the polarity and ground are correct.

Riis

TimmyP · #14 05-14-2009, 09:18 PM

I buy the shortie IEC cables from Anixter.com. I believe that they are still under $3.00 - less than the cost of a retro-fittable AC plug. Here's a list of available cables: http://www.volex.com/index.php?optio...=C13&Itemid=80

JustDavid · #15 05-15-2009, 03:23 PM

Good link!! The 10' 14/3 shielded is interesting.

Anyone know of any source for IEC ends, so you can terminate an extension cord to IEC?

Jim Campbell · #16 05-15-2009, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by two fingers

Sorry if I have offended. I'm a commercial/industrial electrician. It's just that I have wired up several hospitals (new construction). And to me, the term "hospital grade" is all hype. I'm happy for you if you have had good experiences with high-end plugs. I have never had a plug mess up on me over 20 years of traveling playing music. At 2a.m. four hours from home, I'm a chord yanker. I don't treat my equipment very well when it's time to go home. I've never spent more than a few bucks on a plug. Just sayin.

none taken and i meant none my own self......i was a lighting guy,and the gear was constantly plugged/unplugged.....i guess when its on the company dime though......

TimmyP · #17 05-15-2009, 07:44 PM

I would not worry about the shielded cables.

Retrofittable IEC connectors?

For small wire: http://www.welbornelabs.com/powerconn.htm http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...5sGQHj4qmPHpdy http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...RvIoNETCpo5b0X

For large wire: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=110-432

25' IEC cable: http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=10275

I would not use a long IEC cable to feed a rack. Put a panel on the back and use a PowerCon. http://www.padrick.net/LiveSound/Rac.../RackStuff.htm

southernrocker · #18 05-15-2009, 07:51 PM

I just wrap excess cable, zip tie it, and attach it to the sides of the rack case.

Zooberwerx · #19 05-15-2009, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by southernrocker

I just wrap excess cable, zip tie it, and attach it to the sides of the rack case.

Where's the fun in that?

I do the same thing with those square adhesive mounts (Radio Shack, Lowe's, etc.). I read somewhere that, when dealing with these gazillion watt sound systems, you should not pile, coil, or bunch power cables in such a way that the heat can't dissipate.

Riis

southernrocker · #20 05-15-2009, 08:04 PM

^ I never thought of that. I just have it coiled for the tuner and sonic maximizer, though, and maybe those fans help get rid of the heat.