5-String Restoration

TheXxxX · #1 03-17-2011, 07:56 PM

I have recently acquired a 1988 Joel Mentec Bass (41" resonating string length, 75" total length) which was evidently designed as a 5-string. (5-string fingerboard and peghole, which has been filled in since it's creation)

I am willing to convert this back to it's original 5-string setup and was wondering what sort of gear is recommended. I have been told that I would need to source a nice wide bridge, 5 string tailpiece and of course an additional machine head. Luckily the Machine head doesn't look to be a rare kind.

If anyone has any suggestions on items to consider, places to shop (online seems to be the only option from Australia) and prices to expect it would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

Here is the head: (the old hole is easily visible)
http://up.k10x.net/wmfalrzjhhoxc/Aslan_2.jpg
http://up.k10x.net/yuigtzuykfzqj/Aslan_3.jpg

Here is the width of the Fingerboard (110mm)
http://up.k10x.net/bwrfmujmmoaqh/Aslan_4.jpg

Eric Hochberg · #2 03-17-2011, 10:22 PM

I would check inside to make sure the bass is still at 5 string specs, bass bar, top thicknesses, etc. The four string conversion could have been more involved than one less string.

Rebop · #3 03-17-2011, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Hochberg

I would check inside to make sure the bass is still at 5 string specs, bass bar, top thicknesses, etc. The four string conversion could have been more involved than one less string.

+1

Some bass forensics are in order.

TheXxxX · #4 03-18-2011, 02:49 AM

Yes, the bass still has it's bass bar, in fine condition too from what I can see of it.

What other things must be checked/measured? By top thicknesses do you mean the smallest measurement at the arc of the top of the fingerboard?

Cheers.

uprightben · #5 03-18-2011, 05:23 AM

Is the bass bar in a location that will put it under the foot of a wider bridge? That is what is ment, not wether or not there is a bar in there.

TheXxxX · #6 03-19-2011, 12:29 AM

Oh yes, the bass bar would definitely be under the foot of a wider bridge.

So about those measurements again?

Eric Hochberg · #7 03-19-2011, 06:23 AM

I was referring to a new bass bar, size and placement, and/or the top plate thinned out for the four string conversion, as the tension on the top would now be less and the bass wouldn't need to be as heavily wooded. If so, might not want to put that 5th string back on.

TheXxxX · #8 03-19-2011, 04:45 PM

I haven't as yet measured the top plate, but everything appears to have been quite superficially converted to 4-string, the bass bar is the original, and the marks where the feet of the 5-string bridge used to be can clearly be seen to match the position of the bass bar. However I need a method of measuring the top plate, any method you would like to suggest? Thanks for the advice.

Cheers.

TheXxxX · #9 04-10-2011, 04:34 AM

Does anybody recognise the tuning pegs? I need to find a suitable additional peg, and am not sure where to find one.

robobass · #10 04-10-2011, 04:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheXxxX

... However I need a method of measuring the top plate, any method you would like to suggest? Thanks for the advice.

Cheers.

Is there a method of measuring top thickness with the top on? I don't know of one. However, it seems unlikely that the the top would have been made thinner but the bassbar left alone. One thing you could do is to calculate the extra downforce of an added string and add the corresponding weight to the bridge with the bass on it's back, then see if the top sinks appreciably. It doesn't sound like you are going to have a problem, though.

arnoldschnitzer · #11 04-10-2011, 07:50 AM

A Hacklinger Gauge will do the trick. Most luthiers own one nowadays. Stewmac, Howard Core and International Violin all sell it.

uprightben · #12 04-10-2011, 09:19 AM

+1 on the hacklinger gauge, if you can borrow one that would be the way to go, they are not cheap. You also have the problem of not knowing what the original thickness was, so once you measure it will only be partly helpfull. If you cannot get hold of a hacklinger gauge, you can measure the thickness at the upper eyes of the ff holes, just use a ruler at the edge, and post what you get here, we'll give you lots of opinions... Another route would be to take the strings of and pull the endpin socket out. Then, shine a light through the ff holes and look in the endpin hole. If the wood of the top darkens noticeably towards the edges that could be a clue that the top has been thinned. Mind you don't let the soundpost fall, or be prepared to get it back up properly.

As for matching your machines, I've not seen anything quite like those on the web. Yours seem to be some pretty nice older machines that have developed a nice patina, no matter what you find you will have to age it or it will look shiny and horrible. Here is a site with a good selection of nice machines, Gallery Strings - International - Machine Heads maybe you will be satisfied with "close enough", or maybe they can do something custom for you.

Best of luck.

TheXxxX · #13 04-17-2011, 06:17 AM

I am considering just buying a new set of French styled pegs for the restoration as just buying one new one seems to be damned near impossible or just more expensive than buying a new set. Does anybody support me in this decision? I will still keep hold of the original pegs of course, but I would rather have 5 shiny new machines in comparison to 4 nice old aged ones and a shiny one.

Besides, one of them has a rattle...

Eric Hochberg · #14 04-17-2011, 07:11 AM

Why don't you contact the Mentecs and see if they have an old matching tuner around?