Advice for removing strings

Robert Murphy · #1 02-19-2008, 07:53 PM

I am new to the double bass and need advice. I want to remove the strings and replace the coat hanger with braided cable, refit the feet of the bridge to the top and install new strings without losing my sound post. Here's my idea. Use a band clamp ,or strap as some would call it, along with a soft cover book to keep tension on the top while I tinker with the fiddle? I would place the book just below the bridge which I will outline with painters tape for reference and run the band diagonally across the lower bout and centered on the book. I know not to squeeze the sap out of the thing just enough pressure to avoid an unwanted adventure. Yes, no, I nuts? Thanks. Bob

jimmyduded · #2 02-19-2008, 08:21 PM

first of all, the strap is probably not a good idea, the place where you tension it is most likely metal and will damage your bass.for refitting the feet, get a buddy to hold some sandpaper and go back and forth over the top being careful not to rock it back and forth. this is alot of work man, well if you want it done right it is. i just hope you know what your taking on, i have never tried to pin the soundpost in, if your going to be doing all this setup work you might as well adjust your sound post to sit right on the bass, good luck, now i believe the professionals such as bob and arnold will chime in

bribass · #3 02-19-2008, 08:49 PM

Arnold and Jeff use a canvas bag of lead buck shot placed on the top over the sound post area to keep it from falling down. A bag of coins or sand would probably do the job just as well. I once used my daughter's full piggy bank placed over a small towel which worked. The point is to maintain some pressure on the part of the top which holds the post in place.

BG

Robert Murphy · #4 02-20-2008, 08:59 AM

The tensioning buckle will definetly be on top of the soft cover book to prevent damage. The shot bag is a good idea thanks. I am not at all shy about working on MY bass. I set up my own guitars, I have an A&P cert in aircraft mechanics and I am a 35 year veteran carpenter. I have lots of patience and the bridge foot shaping just takes time and careful workmanship, something I do every day.

Andrew McGregor · #5 02-20-2008, 03:18 PM

Isn't the strap going to pull the sides of the bass toward each other and LOOSEN the soundpost? I think a bag of shot or sand is the best idea. Mind you, the soundpost in my bass stays in on its own, so I don't need to do anything except treat it gently while it's unstrung.

toman · #6 02-20-2008, 05:05 PM

Seems to me like a strap would probably defeat itself, putting pressure on the edges of the top. I'd just find something heavy like a couple bags of dogfood, and that's if the post won't stay up on its own. Most I've seen will, as long as you're gentle... If it falls over, its not really that hard to put it back up. Here's a tip: Mark where it is before taking down the tension; that way you can get it back there easily.

Robert Murphy · #7 02-20-2008, 06:16 PM

I like the weight idea best and I have so marked the spot. Thanks.

**Matthew Tucker** · #8 02-20-2008, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmyduded

, i have never tried to pin the soundpost in,

... is that the method where you drive a 2" nail through the top into the soundpost, anchoring it in position?

jimmyduded · #9 02-20-2008, 08:02 PM

no, if youd like i could get the definition to show you that pinning can be forcing an object to be immobilized, but the nail idea sounds good too

**Matthew Tucker** · #10 02-20-2008, 08:19 PM

Yep, interested. Show me how you'd pin a soundpost ... always something new to learn.

jimmyduded · #11 02-20-2008, 08:39 PM

pin

a. To hold fast; immobilize: The passenger was pinned under the wreckage of the truck.
b. Sports To win a fall from in wrestling

immobilize, thus discouraging movement, therfore pinning something, im not trying to start and arguement but i did use it correctly, your pinning the sounpost between the top and back

jimmyduded · #12 02-20-2008, 09:09 PM

and for how i would do it, i wouldnt, i dont like to put pressure on the top that the strings dont normally add, some basses being set up could have a crack, adding weight could make the crack go farther, i guess its a pain for some people to get the soundpost back up but i just use the 1.25 grabber tool(ill have to find out its official name) and pick it up, then take the soundpost tool and wedge it in there, put it in the bass and adjust, i can do one in 20 or so minutes

**Matthew Tucker** · #13 02-20-2008, 09:15 PM

Not arguing Jimmy, just ribbing.

Yep I can see how you might pin a soundpost in position. hey I have an idea

That'd hold it.

toman · #14 02-20-2008, 11:30 PM

How about this: Chew a wad of gum, split it half and roll into snakes. Using a BBQ skewer, work a snake around the top and bottom of the post. Maybe modeling clay would be better. A drop of hot melt glue would do the trick, if you could get it in there quickly enough. Or maybe a bit of silicone RTV; that'd pop off cleanly when you were done too. Should I continue?

jimmyduded · #15 02-21-2008, 01:00 PM

lol matthew, as long as your kidding, i pride myself on my vocabulary abilities

Robert Murphy · #16 02-22-2008, 04:45 PM

Thanks to all for your advice. I installed new strings, replaced the tail wire and got the bridge centered in the notches, standing up straight and shaved the feet to match the top. I did not loose the sound post BTW. Also adjusted the tail piece to bridge distance 1:6. The old girl rumbles now when I pull the E string. Thanks again. Bob