Another man's treasure - Page 3

bigolbassguy · #41 12-25-2010, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derft

For future reference T88 epoxy gels in 1hr and cures in 24 hrs.

As many times as I've read that on this forum, you'd think it would have sunk in :\

On the bright side - I'll never forget again.

BTW Matt, did you notice the scuffs on the front of the scroll? I did angle it back a hair, as you suggested, but possibly not quite enough.

**Matthew Tucker** · #42 12-25-2010, 01:59 PM

I wouldn't worry about the sides of the pegbox, you can smooth and touch them up after; the idea is to keep the front of the scroll out of the plane of the plane.

bigolbassguy · #43 12-26-2010, 04:12 AM

I've got some concerns about the edge repairs. I have a lot of the broken chips, and most of the purfling. After I glue it all back in, I'm at a loss. The top is made from 5 1mm plies. The purfling is cut into the top 3 layers, and in the areas where the 2 bottom layers of the edge are intact, it shouldn't be too much trouble. But, there are several places where the edge is gone entirely. What then?

I have some ideas - but considering my poor decisions with the neck repair, I though I should ask first

Jake deVilliers · #44 12-26-2010, 01:01 PM

Hey Mark, five minute epoxy isn't suitable for the purpose - only 24 hour epoxy cures hard enough to hold. Five minute epoxy is for gluing pins on the back of jewelry.

When you're wondering about stuff like that just go ahead and use the 'Search' function - its all been discussed here before...

bigolbassguy · #45 12-26-2010, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers

Hey Mark, five minute epoxy isn't suitable for the purpose - only 24 hour epoxy cures hard enough to hold. Five minute epoxy is for gluing pins on the back of jewelry.

When you're wondering about stuff like that just go ahead and use the 'Search' function - its all been discussed here before...

The only thing to do is ... do it again, or I'll be waking at 3:00 am for foreseeable future, wracked with guilt. Cleaning epoxy from a half-assed repair should part of everyone's repetoire, though, shouldn't it?

Scatterblak · #46 12-26-2010, 09:52 PM

Hey guys -- I was just passing through here by accident (I'm an electric bassist) because I clicked a link at the top of TB, and I have to tell you - this is some *fascinating* stuff. We've got our luthier's as well, of course, but they rarely if ever do anything with this level of detail and interaction. It's obvious the double bass community is a bit more mature than ours - of course, your instruments have been around for a few years more than ours have.

Very cool stuff -- please keep it up!

Dennybass · #47 12-26-2010, 11:49 PM

Any ideas anyone?

This bass has been my "science experiment" for the last 15 years. At least the neck stayed on this time. I've had the neck off twice, first time someone else repaired it, second time I thought what the heck, how hard can it be?

When it started going flat all the time I thought it was the neck again, but...

Can this be fixed without taking the top off?

salcott · #48 12-27-2010, 02:43 AM

**Matthew Tucker** · #49 12-27-2010, 05:46 AM

There is something strangely fascinating about that image. I think the science experiment went wrong.

George700DL · #50 12-27-2010, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthew Tucker

There is something strangely fascinating about that image. I think the science experiment went wrong.

Is that braided steel cable making a big difference in the sound of this bass?

james condino · #51 12-27-2010, 09:02 AM

What is your goal with this bass? Is it important or a working man's learning / experimental bass? For all the effort you are going to put into fixing up that tailblock area, unless it is a very expensive or important bass, I'd likely just go ahead and bend up a new set of ribs. Sure, you can fix those, but it will be a fair amount of work in a fragile area.A lot of folks who don't like to bend ribs, don't have the materials on hand, or who have never done it would tell you to put a pound of glue in there and patch the daylights out of it. Have you bent up a set of ribs yet? If so, it may be a good time to jump into it and learn....or put it up on epay and let the next fellow learn....

j.

1st Bass · #52 12-27-2010, 09:48 AM

Just out of morbid curiosity, how did that happen? I would assume it was dropped on the endpin from some distance.

Jake deVilliers · #53 12-27-2010, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigolbassguy

The only thing to do is ... do it again, or I'll be waking at 3:00 am for foreseeable future, wracked with guilt. Cleaning epoxy from a half-assed repair should part of everyone's repetoire, though, shouldn't it?

I don't know that you'll be able to wash the epoxy out once its cured, even the 5 minute stuff - I've never tried. But acetone is the solvent when its still tacky.

Good luck!

**Matthew Tucker** · #54 12-27-2010, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers

I don't know that you'll be able to wash the epoxy out once its cured,

router.

bigolbassguy · #55 12-27-2010, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthew Tucker

router.

yeah. First I have to dig the CF rod back out - Cut out the spacer, make a new one, glue that up - then route the old crap out, - etc, etc.

**Matthew Tucker** · #56 12-27-2010, 05:45 PM

to soften the epoxy to dig the CF out use a hot air gun. I've done it, pain in the arse but not too hard.

Dennybass · #57 12-30-2010, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by james condino

What is your goal with this bass? Is it important or a working man's learning / experimental bass? For all the effort you are going to put into fixing up that tailblock area, unless it is a very expensive or important bass, I'd likely just go ahead and bend up a new set of ribs. Sure, you can fix those, but it will be a fair amount of work in a fragile area.A lot of folks who don't like to bend ribs, don't have the materials on hand, or who have never done it would tell you to put a pound of glue in there and patch the daylights out of it. Have you bent up a set of ribs yet? If so, it may be a good time to jump into it and learn....or put it up on epay and let the next fellow learn....

j.

BENDING RIBS?
No Ebay for this bass, I have all intentions of learning how to fix it myself, as I go...
I guess I was going to try to take the top off and "glue the daylights out of it" but you've intrigued me with suggestions of bending ribs? I'm thinking it's probably over my head but... that never stopped me before!

I'm all ears, how do I do it?

WAS IT DROPPED?
Somebody else wanted to know if I had dropped it, NO, I didn't. It was cracked on the right when I got it. A luthier pulled patches through from the inside with fishing line. A few years later my wife ran into it cracking open the opposite side. After studying the first repair with a mirror, I decided I could patch it myself. It worked great (until the 2 cracks finally met in the middle, at the bottom) The rest is pretty much self explanatory. When it kept going flat, I assumed that my neck repair wasn't holding, but I couldn't figure out why my action wasn't getting any higher... eventually it came apart with one final crank on the tuning peg.

CABLE
Did I use the wrong kind of cable to secure the tailpiece to the endpin. I didn't think it would make a difference, but as I already admitted, I'm not a pro luthier, I'm just a guy that likes to tinker and doesn't know when to admit defeat.

bigolbassguy · #58 12-31-2010, 08:09 AM

Do any of you guys use a Foredom tool for routing? I'm considering taking the plunge, so to speak.

james condino · #59 12-31-2010, 12:01 PM

Foredom tools are pretty nice to have. I believe LMI still sells a beautiful router base made by Bishop Cochran that fits them and makes them very versatile.

j.

bigolbassguy · #60 01-01-2011, 09:08 AM

Stewmac currently includes a router base with purchase. I like the BC design better, but SM's deal is pretty good. Even better than ordering direct from Foredom.