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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #1  
Old 01-15-2010, 06:32 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Body Repair

I have a Bass in need of body repair. The Bass in question, I think, is a step up from the cheap Far Eastern Bass's. The issues are:
a) Someone has removed the back. Repaired Splits. Where the back is angled near the top that has been cut in half (Horizontally) a piece of wood put in (internally) to join the two half's and dowled. Looks terrible! (AHhhhhhhhhh---). The back appears to be pretty firm. Is it a good idea to veneer over the the back?
b) The top sags a little where the bridge sits--shall i reinforce from the inside?
c) The F/B is thin white wood. As the Bass does not warrent the cost of a new Ebony F/B what alternatives would you use?Ideas?

Your expertise most welcome. Many thanks.
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  #2  
Old 01-15-2010, 06:59 AM
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Sad to say, it's time for a new axe my friend.

No matter what you do to it, your bass wasn't built to support its own tension. Any repairs would be like putting a band-aid on a broken limb..
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  #3  
Old 01-16-2010, 01:07 AM
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Body Repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by DallasStrings View Post
Sad to say, it's time for a new axe my friend.

No matter what you do to it, your bass wasn't built to support its own tension. Any repairs would be like putting a band-aid on a broken limb..
Probably correct---but---as they say repairing is getting to know one's instrument, so I shall give it a go.
  #4  
Old 01-16-2010, 11:57 AM
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Care to post some photographs, so we have a better idea of what you are describing?
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  #5  
Old 01-16-2010, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1st Bass View Post
Care to post some photographs, so we have a better idea of what you are describing?
+1
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  #6  
Old 01-16-2010, 03:39 PM
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+2

My bass has a similarly lengthy list of issues, but it is quite playable and sounds good for a ply. So it depends on a lot of things whether to keep your bass working in some form or fashion, or simply move on.
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  #7  
Old 01-17-2010, 02:14 PM
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Hi Guys
See picture of back problem---take off back and do a better job? Incidently the Bass appears to be 'all wood'---not ply.
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  #8  
Old 01-17-2010, 02:27 PM
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yow...

Looks as though you are missing some wood, to me.

Might be a tough fix...open glue seams, structural damage and/or modifications, cracks, sags....

Yep. You picked a "Lulu" for a first repair job. (Not a bad name for that bass...)

Get Treager's book to begin with, to give yourself some idea of the enormity of what you have chosen to combat. Then pick your battlefields, one by one.

Right now, I think I agree w/Cody, though I admire and support your decision to plunge in and do the work. I just am afraid you have no idea what you are up against. Yes, it can be repaired; no, it is probably not worth the effort. But if education is what you are after, you have got a cast-bronze bear of an education coming your way.

Good luck.
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  #9  
Old 01-17-2010, 02:48 PM
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Hi Guys
Another picture attached--of full back. What would you do if you had to repair?
As I mentioned in my original post the table is inclined to dip a little with strings on. Remedy? --to reinforce that part from inside?
Regarding the F/B what wood (due to cost of ebony) would you use as an alternative?
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  #10  
Old 01-17-2010, 07:15 PM
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If you want to dive into being a bass luthier, by all means, invest in the tools, the time, find a mentor, and do your research.

To be honest, I can tell you that if you're worried about the price of a decent ebony fingerboard you still have no idea what you're getting yourself into financially for the other repairs. You'd probably freak out at the price of the specialized clamps you'll need for this project. You need to outfit yourself with a variety of knives and scrapers. You will also need to build a mold of the entire top to properly correct the arching problem.. The list is long my friend. That's why many of us do this for a living. It's THAT time consuming and takes considerable investment..

I don't mean to discourage you. If you really want to dive into this, as Chet said, start by reading Chuck Traeger's book, educate yourself further before making this decision. Otherwise this will likely become an incomplete project taking up space in your garage..
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Last edited by Cody Sisk : 01-18-2010 at 06:43 AM. Reason: "as chet said" credit where due..
  #11  
Old 01-19-2010, 05:57 PM
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Location: Westminster, Maryland
a few more pix

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikejdexter View Post
Hi Guys
Another picture attached--of full back. What would you do if you had to repair?
As I mentioned in my original post the table is inclined to dip a little with strings on. Remedy? --to reinforce that part from inside?
Regarding the F/B what wood (due to cost of ebony) would you use as an alternative?

First, opinion:
The advice given is very good. If you are looking for a bass that plays, looks, and sounds good, sorry, success is doubtful. Veneer is the least of your worries. I understand you own it and what the heck, experience seems "free" at this point. It is not. The Traeger book suggested is essential and will cost you like $80. Read it before you proceed.

Another problem - if someone did this to a bass, they probably did not use hide glue and if not you will have a very bad time opening the case and making repairs. I am normally a "give it a try" kind of guy but this looks bad. Sorry.

About your questions:

The top - could you post pictures of the front and 1/4 side shot too? Why is it falling? Is there a sound post? Is the bass bar OK? Is the top decomposing?

The finger board - you can use other tight-grained hardwoods such as hard maple or rosewood.
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  #12  
Old 01-20-2010, 01:13 PM
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Overall the top is in pretty good shape--no major cracks or splits. Except for a slight dip on the soundpost side when the strings on---I think due to thinness of the top in that area. The ribs are in pretty good shape.
Thank you for all your expertise and good advise--much appreciated.
My conclusion?---I intend to 'give it a go'---it will keep me off the streets for a while!
  #13  
Old 01-20-2010, 02:54 PM
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My initial impression was that the top of your bass was sinking on a much bigger scale that it really is. A lot of times, a soundpost that's just a tad longer can push up the top just enough to correct that slight dip some inexpensive basses get on the soundpost side. I will usually try and fit the post so that it's tight enough to even out the f-hole or is just plenty snug and not overly tight, whichever comes first. Take pictures and good luck!
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  #14  
Old 01-24-2010, 02:14 PM
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Unhappy Body Repair

Thanks once again for the good advise. My long term project for the coming year. I have yet to take a Bass apart---I have made several Banjos and built an acoustic guitar--so into the unknown with a little bit of knowledge.
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