Bridge for American Standard - Page 2

Johnny Atomic · #21 02-05-2009, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers

Hey Johnny, can you post a photo?

how bout a long overdue youtube video?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5TYeIss38I

Jake deVilliers · #22 02-05-2009, 05:36 PM

That works for me - thanks John.

What's that baby weigh?

Johnny Atomic · #23 02-05-2009, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers

That works for me - thanks John.

What's that baby weigh?

not nearly as much as you'd think.

i'll weigh it.

I'm gonna have it chrome or maybe gold plated

BLING BLING BASS

Jake deVilliers · #24 02-05-2009, 06:57 PM

Now you're talking - gold anodized aluminium bridges!

MollyKay · #25 02-08-2009, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctregan

The bass bar on an old American Standards is located closer to the centerline of the belly than on most basses, try a 150mm bridge.

Quote:

Originally Posted by arnoldschnitzer

What Jake said about what CT said. I've done a lot of these. The 150 works just fine. Now if you want to really hear an American Standard roar, you move the bass bar out to where it "should" be. But that is no job for a hobbyist.

Uhmmm…we have a 1950 AS bass on the work bench and far enough a part to attempt moving the bass bar. CT and Arnold, what are your recommendations for re-positioning the bass bar? If you would be so kind to give some measurements we are up for a challenge. This bass has sucked our time; why not give it the full treatment.

We did measure the volume of this bass prior to taking the back off so we could objectively measure if the volume improves with a reposition of the bass bar. Give me some good advice and we will attempt a move.

If anyone is interested I am blogging (or whining) about this basses repair journey

http://thebassmonkeyworkshop.blogspot.com/

ctregan · #26 02-08-2009, 12:40 PM

I am not sure you can just move the bar over, it may require a making a new bar.

There are no measurements; just push the bar over as close to the upper f~hole as possible, at the same time, make sure the bridge leg is centered over the bar.

My bass has more power with the new bar but, I also changed the bridge ht./overstand and put in a 1/8" belly patch. So the new found power could be from a combo of repairs.

MollyKay · #27 02-10-2009, 08:05 AM

Thanks CT…We knew it would not be a simple move. There would need to be some reshaping. When you made your bass bar what wood did you use? We have a few wood suppliers as well as a cabinetmaker friend that can supply us with some pretty unique wood.

We will continue to bounce around the idea…the bass had a pretty good punch to it and the current bass bar is in good condition and still positioned to the factory pencil marks. It is pretty cool to study the inside of this bass. The plywood on the upper bouts on the inside is highly flamed and much prettier then the wood used for the outside of the bass…makes me wonder why?

Thanks again for replying to my question.

ctregan · #28 02-10-2009, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MollyKay

Thanks CT…We knew it would not be a simple move. There would need to be some reshaping. When you made your bass bar what wood did you use? We have a few wood suppliers as well as a cabinetmaker friend that can supply us with some pretty unique wood.

We will continue to bounce around the idea…the bass had a pretty good punch to it and the current bass bar is in good condition and still positioned to the factory pencil marks. It is pretty cool to study the inside of this bass. The plywood on the upper bouts on the inside is highly flamed and much prettier then the wood used for the outside of the bass…makes me wonder why?

Thanks again for replying to my question.

Spruce is the wood of choice for bass bars. I could not locate any spruce locally, so w. red cedar was substituted.

If you make a new bar, save the old one; you could always swap it back in if the new bar doesn't work out.

Jake deVilliers · #29 02-10-2009, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MollyKay

When you made your bass bar what wood did you use?

I have a stash of old Sitka Spruce that I use and I've also purchased nice European Spruce bass bar material from Metropolitan Music.

MR PC · #30 02-10-2009, 01:40 PM

Wow, great project Molly. Labors for love always out distance labors for money. It's so simple. You guys are way cool!

I've got the plainest AS ever made. Every one scratches their head after hearing it......"it's gotta be solid wood" ect.

It will be nice to hear some before and after sound clips.

Mark Carlsen · #31 02-10-2009, 02:09 PM

Why not first try for instance a stock 1/2 size bridge w. a foot spread around 137mm? I have had good luck with the original bar placement as this bridge will be more centered over the bar...Now you might have some problemo with a couple 2,3 things. If the belly is caved in a little like on the E string F hole, then a 1/2 size bridge could be a wee bit short. The regular overstand on most AS's is short like alot of Kay basses, so you can get away with a slightly shorter bridge. The feet are usually smaller too, so again the condition of the arch of the belly of the bass will be a factor in whether you can use a 1/2 size or not. My $.02 now becoming 1/2 of that.......

MollyKay · #32 02-10-2009, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctregan

Spruce is the wood of choice for bass bars. I could not locate any spruce locally, so w. red cedar was substituted.

If you make a new bar, save the old one; you could always swap it back in if the new bar doesn't work out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers

I have a stash of old Sitka Spruce that I use and I've also purchased nice European Spruce bass bar material from Metropolitan Music.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR PC

Wow, great project Molly. Labors for love always out distance labors for money. It's so simple. You guys are way cool!

I've got the plainest AS ever made. Every one scratches their head after hearing it......"it's gotta be solid wood" ect.

It will be nice to hear some before and after sound clips.

Thanks for the information on wood selection for the bass bar. Spruce should be pretty easy to come by…and the suggestion to keep the old bass bar to see if the new one makes a measurable improvement is a great idea.

Also thanks for the vote of confidence…this bass has been on the work bench for so long that I can get impatient

…Lonnie has the patience of a saint…I give all the credit to him for pushing forward on this one.

MR PC · #33 02-12-2009, 01:20 PM

Just my two cents.......but with the bass bar........for myself I'd think.......if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

You might lose something good while gaining something else you aren't sure about. Like putting a 283 in an old Model A Ford.

I think that AES came up with a great design for their basses by experimenting with the old AS basses. A wonderful contribution to our DB community.

Martin Beer · #34 02-14-2009, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wallyphonic

Here's a photo of my metal bridge. Anybody else know anything about these?

That picture goes a long way towards explaining the three big round scars that are on the front of my bass (a late 19th century German shop-bass). It must have had one of those Framus bridges for a while. Hmmm, I can see why some people frown upon these things...

MollyKay · #35 02-15-2009, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR PC

Just my two cents.......but with the bass bar........for myself I'd think.......if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

You might lose something good while gaining something else you aren't sure about. Like putting a 283 in an old Model A Ford.

We agree…after careful measurements we can’t justify moving the bass bar such a slight amount.

The factory pencil marks can be seen on the inside of the bass…so we are not moving the bass bar. This baby remains vintage original.

I apologize to the OP for hi-jacking your thread…we are on the same subject…AS basses, just a different part of the beast.

Mark Carlsen · #36 02-15-2009, 04:56 PM

You might want to make two bridges...One the standard 3/4 spread of 150 mm on the feet and my earlier suggestion of the 1/2 size and let us know which one makes the beast roar....

I know where my $.02 is going....

Wallyphonic · #37 02-16-2009, 09:55 PM

I Just noticed that this thread had come back to life. Thanks for everyone's help, and thanks for the youtube video, Johnny.

I fit the 150mm bridge on the bass and it sounds really good, but only slightly better than the metal bridge. I love this bass, it really sounds and plays great.

I would have tried the 1/2 size bridge but it was too short. It appears that this bass has a higher neck angle than a normal AS. I just got two more American Standards and they have a lower neck angle, making the bridge about an inch shorter. The neck on this bass had been broken and fixed Frankenstein fashion, with a bolt through the fingerboard. Apparently when they put it back together they changed the angle. Fortunately for me it probably makes it sound better. I'm looking forward to getting the other two up and running to see how they compare. One of them needs a new fingerboard, so I will probably be asking you all for advice on how to do that!

Johnny Atomic · #38 03-26-2009, 05:43 PM

Here's my slowey bridge, I polished the heck out it then painted it w/ candy red (clear lacquer and red dye). And Oh yeah i put it on my bass.

you can tell i go for the subtle.

BigSpikeBass · #39 04-01-2009, 05:53 PM

You'll enjoy this blog of an American Standard restoration by Pete Langdell of Rigel Instruments in Vermont.

http://www.smokin-grass.com/as787.html[/quote]

i quit paying for that website a long time ago so i'm surprised it's still up...

it's here now too
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...lbumId=1140836