Go Back   TalkBass Forums > Double Bass Forums > Setup & Repair [DB]
Register Rules/FAQ/CUP Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


Supporting Membership
Thank You

Latest Supporting Member
Donate to Upgrade Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 09-05-2005, 09:48 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Can I remove the ridge on old Kay fingerboard?

Hey folks I recently purchased an old 57 Kay C1 with the original fingerboard. Before repairing and setting up the bass, should I plane down the sharp ridge on the fingerboard the A string? I have been recommended to remove it. I am a fiddle player and fixer upper of sorts, and have little experience with a bass. Why did they even put such a bevel there in the first place, and by the way, will it devalue the instrument if removed? Thanks for any response on this matter. John
Sign in to disble this ad
  #2  
Old 09-05-2005, 10:40 AM
Banned

Owner: Ken Smith Basses, Ltd.
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Perkasie, PA USA
Cool Bevel..

The FB may not be thick enough to round over. Rounded FBs are usually cut like that from the start. The Edge can be softened a bit though. Read this other recent thread about this here; FB bevel question

Last edited by KSB - Ken Smith : 09-14-2005 at 11:37 AM. Reason: typo
  #3  
Old 09-05-2005, 12:50 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: LaBelle, FL
I have never heard of a Kay with a bevelled fingerboard. This is probably a replacement fingerboard. It's probably just fine the way it is. You more than likely won't notice any difference between a bevelled and round fingerboard when you play it.
__________________
Jim Lownds
  #4  
Old 09-05-2005, 01:00 PM
drurb's Avatar
Oracle, Ancient Order of Rass Hattur
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Connecticut
Supporting Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtlownds
I have never heard of a Kay with a bevelled fingerboard. This is probably a replacement fingerboard. It's probably just fine the way it is. You more than likely won't notice any difference between a bevelled and round fingerboard when you play it.
FYI-- my 1966 Kay C-1 came from the factory withe a bevelled fingerboard.
  #5  
Old 09-05-2005, 01:16 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: LaBelle, FL
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRURB
FYI-- my 1966 Kay C-1 came from the factory withe a bevelled fingerboard.
I'm amazed, I've been playing for almost 50 years, and have spanked for Kays than I can count, and I've never seen one with a bevel.

To answer your question, John, fingerboards are expendable. To take the bevel off, or even replace the fingerboard should have no effect on the value of the instrument.
__________________
Jim Lownds

Last edited by jtlownds : 09-05-2005 at 01:21 PM.
  #6  
Old 09-05-2005, 02:33 PM
Nuno A.'s Avatar
Velvet Strings Customer Service
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: SWITZERLAND
Supporting Member
My 52 Kay M1 has a bevelled fingerboard too, and so do have the Kays of 3 friends of mine, my fingerboard is suposed to be the original one, interesting to know which models have the round board, time to go to Kaybass.com

NUNO
  #7  
Old 09-05-2005, 02:42 PM
Nuno A.'s Avatar
Velvet Strings Customer Service
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: SWITZERLAND
Supporting Member
From Kaybass.com;
"Kay fingerboards all had a flat on the E side and were not rounded."

NUNO
  #8  
Old 09-05-2005, 05:11 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: LaBelle, FL
It's been over 30 years since I've played a Kay. Maybe I'm having a "senior moment".
__________________
Jim Lownds
  #9  
Old 09-05-2005, 06:46 PM
Chasarms's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: St. Louis, MO USA
Supporting Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bick
. . . Why did they even put such a bevel there in the first place . . .

It's a way of giving the E string a little more room to vibrate. I think that it really works, and as far a playability, there's no real difference.

I actually think it may be a little easier to stop the E string in 2nd and 3rd position with the beveled board, especially with your 4th finger. It just seems to set up better to the ergonomics of my hand. But it makes no significant difference.
  #10  
Old 09-06-2005, 07:50 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
At least while I own this bass, it will be used for bluegrass. I presume by your replies, that it should be fine the way it is. That's good news. The old piece needs the neck reglued....loose in the block....and some cleanup. It will be more of a winter project I think. Too busy going to bluegrass festivals right now!
  #11  
Old 09-06-2005, 08:16 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bick
...The old piece needs the neck reglued....loose in the block....
And you're playing it that way? I gotta believe that's gonna make a bad situation worse. If I were you I'd get the neck reset ASAP. Between festivals.
Regarding the fingerboard 'ridge', I'd leave it alone. Any wood you remove will reduce the stiffness of an already- thin neck.
__________________
There are 10 kinds of people in the world, those who understand binary and those who don't.
  #12  
Old 09-14-2005, 11:16 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
No, No I am not playing the bass....I am a jam session fiddler at every festival I can make. Today I spent a little time cleaning layers of dirt off the old bass, as I acquired it from an estate sale and it had been mothballed for years. Upon further inspection, the neck is loose from the bouts and back only. ...very loose! It must still be glued to the block....I tried gentle force to pull it out of the mortise with no luck. The back is loose in the lower bouts, and I can see inside that a portion of the lining is missing from the lower bout on one side. I will need to remove the back completely to fix the lining, since it is already loose from both end blocks this should be no problem? I have removed fiddle tops and was wondering what I needed to know different about basses. Any ideas on the neck/block repair would be great too.
John Bick
  #13  
Old 09-14-2005, 01:40 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
The repairs you are considering should only be done with hide glue. Have you worked with hide glue before? Do you have dozens of spool clamps? How are you planning to clamp the back to the ribs when you reglue it?
You're doing the right thing by doing some homework before jumping into the project. At the risk of drawing fire, I'm gonna suggest you might want to consider investing in a copy of Chuck Traeger's book.
__________________
There are 10 kinds of people in the world, those who understand binary and those who don't.
  #14  
Old 09-14-2005, 09:32 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
I only use hide glue for any fiddle repairs I have done...I am a firm believer in that! As for my spool clamps, they are far too small. I do have a friend locally that is a guitar builder and another "bass" friend who has offered to loan me a book on bass repair...and lend a helping hand. Between the two of them feel I have plenty of tools and help, but I wanted any info I can gather before I start.
Reply



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Follow TalkBass on Twitter   Visit TalkBass on Facebook  

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:39 AM.




Copyright 2011 Talk Music Group Inc. All rights reserved.
Play guitar? Visit our new sister site TalkGuitar.com [beta]
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.12
Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.