CF rod

bigolbassguy · #1 03-20-2011, 08:11 PM

I've got a FB replacement to do on an EM1. I was planning on using .2" x 1/4" x 24" cf rod from stewmac to reinforce the neck. (I've heard from several bass luthiers that they always reinforce the necks of Kays and Engelhardts when the opportunity presents itself - so I'm following their example.)

While I'm pretty sure that the stewmac rod will be adequate, I was hoping for a little input on the dimensions of cf rod that is commonly used for DB before I order any - also, a cheap resource would be great info.

Thanks in advance

**Matthew Tucker** · #2 03-20-2011, 11:43 PM

is that supposed to be 1/2" x 1/4" x 24" ???

that's about the size I use but 24" is too long for a bass neck - you'll have to trim some off with a hacksaw

james condino · #3 03-21-2011, 07:46 AM

Those will work fine. The 18" model should wind up being just the right length. I like to use a couple of them. I've found that the Stew Mac ones are a little more stiff than the LMI. I like to leave about 1/8" visible underneath the nut, so the next repair person will know that it has been installed before they remove the fingerboard.

j.

vejesse · #4 03-21-2011, 07:55 AM

They sell the 0.200" wide rods so you have to buy their special .200" cutter.

I get mine from Luthier's Mercantile - way better selection. But I've noticed that the 1/4 inch rods actually range from from 0.245" through 0.260" in width. You can ask them to measure to make sure the ones they send are right at 0.250".

Jake deVilliers · #5 03-21-2011, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigolbassguy

I've got a FB replacement to do on an EM1. I was planning on using .2" x 1/4" x 24" cf rod from stewmac to reinforce the neck. (I've heard from several bass luthiers that they always reinforce the necks of Kays and Engelhardts when the opportunity presents itself - so I'm following their example.)

While I'm pretty sure that the stewmac rod will be adequate, I was hoping for a little input on the dimensions of cf rod that is commonly used for DB before I order any - also, a cheap resource would be great info.

Thanks in advance

The StewMac bars are too expensive and too small...

I use the 1/4 x 1/2 x 18 CF from LMI. The thickness doesn't really matter to me since its going in the hole with epoxy and a maple cap. On the other hand, if the slot needs to be a little wider I just move my jig over a little and make another pass with the router.

I leave the end visible at both ends of the neck too, so the next guy can see what he has to deal with!

1st Bass · #6 03-21-2011, 11:48 AM

I'm pretty sure this is the size I used, in the past.
DragonPlate Carbon Strip (Rectangle) ~ .125" x .500" x 24"
I bought two of them, and inlaid them in an inverted "V" formation, with the apex near the neck/FB joint, but deep enough that they were immersed in epoxy. I left them exposed on both ends, same as Jake...same reason.

tomshepp · #7 03-21-2011, 02:21 PM

Please forgive my jumping in. Is it recommended every time you replace a fingerboard on a Kay? I've been thinking of getting a new board, so should I have it done?

**Matthew Tucker** · #8 03-21-2011, 04:30 PM

It simply prevents the neck from bending under string pressure. The neck is made of wood, wood can bend, you don't want that. Carbon fibre is "stiff as".

Its just a good idea and when you have the fingerboard off, then is the time to do it.

Jake deVilliers · #9 03-21-2011, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomshepp

Please forgive my jumping in. Is it recommended every time you replace a fingerboard on a Kay? I've been thinking of getting a new board, so should I have it done?

Yes, definitely! If you put a straightedge up to the neck/fingerboard join you'll probably see a forward curve. A CF stiffener really helps the skinny Kay necks a lot.

tomshepp · #10 03-21-2011, 06:00 PM

Thanks guys. Jake, I saw BK's Dottie, looks good!

bigolbassguy · #11 03-21-2011, 06:36 PM

Thanks guys. I'm going to give the LMI rod a try. The greater mass seems like a good idea.

eh_train · #12 03-21-2011, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigolbassguy

commonly used for DB before I order any - also, a cheap resource would be great info.

Thanks in advance

Hi B-O-B-G,

The CF I ordered from Dragon Plate was about half the price that Stew-Mac charges.

Cheers,

Paul (Eh_train)

ctxbass · #13 03-21-2011, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomshepp

Please forgive my jumping in. Is it recommended every time you replace a fingerboard on a Kay? I've been thinking of getting a new board, so should I have it done?

I had it done on my '37. It is definitely a worthwhile improvement.

rgarcia26 · #14 03-22-2011, 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers

Yes, definitely! If you put a straightedge up to the neck/fingerboard join you'll probably see a forward curve. A CF stiffener really helps the skinny Kay necks a lot.

Hi Jake, I am working on a German Bass... but how do I know if It may be beneficial to add and CF rod?

**Matthew Tucker** · #15 03-22-2011, 06:54 AM

Cos we're telling you, if the fingerboard is off, it IS worth it!

rgarcia26 · #16 03-22-2011, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthew Tucker

Cos we're telling you, if the fingerboard is off, it IS worth it!

ok.... one question..? the neck still attach to the bass.. any ideas on how to carve a channel without tacking the neck off... I done before using a router but in a separate neck

Jake deVilliers · #17 03-22-2011, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthew Tucker

Cos we're telling you, if the fingerboard is off, it IS worth it!

+1! Its not even a question.

Jake deVilliers · #18 03-22-2011, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rgarcia26

ok.... one question..? the neck still attach to the bass.. any ideas on how to carve a channel without tacking the neck off... I done before using a router but in a separate neck

You'll need to make a fixture that you can clamp to the neck - maybe something with an adjustable fence. You might want to run a couple of screws into the movable parts of the fixture before routing - if the intense vibrations make the fence move you won't be very happy...

Good luck!

bigolbassguy · #19 03-22-2011, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers

You'll need to make a fixture that you can clamp to the neck - maybe something with an adjustable fence. You might want to run a couple of screws into the movable parts of the fixture before routing - if the intense vibrations make the fence move you won't be very happy...

Good luck!

Jake, do you have any pics of your neck routing jig?

Jake deVilliers · #20 03-22-2011, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigolbassguy

Jake, do you have any pics of your neck routing jig?

No pix - its not very photogenic...

Email me at jake@thebassspa.com if you want a description.