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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #1  
Old 01-21-2008, 11:07 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: West Haven, CT
Christopher 304T Busetto Repair Project

Here is a link to photos of a repair project of a lefty Christopher 304 hybrid DB that my local luthier found through with his dealings with the Christopher distributor.

Offically it is a DB304TGM-SG-L which says that it is a hybrid 300 series busetto double bass that is left-handed and comes with german tuners and a semi-gloss finish. Being left handed does not leave me with many opportunities for a bass. I currently have a lefty Englehardt ES-1 and was planning to look for a hybrid. So when my luthier contacted me, I was very interested.

The bass, which was ordered for someone else, had been damaged by a forklift while still in its shipping box. The carved top has several cracks along it seams.

My luthier, David Mix, had a similar right handed model in stock and it sounded great. He brought the damaged bass to his friend Lou Di Leone for an opinion on whether to repair it or not and Lou said that it should be an easy repair. He was impressed with the construction of the bass. So we decided to go forward with the project to repair it.

I took these initial pictures that show the bass in its shipping box and then with the first step in the repair project which was to remove the top.

I plan to add photos at each step of the repair.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2000431...7603749845592/
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  #2  
Old 01-21-2008, 01:06 PM
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That looks like fun.

I'm always fascinated with the variety of ways of doing busetto corner blocks. On this model they look a bit rough but the bass itself looks solid enough.



this is a solano



I have seen busetto blocks that just neatly fill the "bulge", with the lower bout rib glued to the inside of the block.

What I'd really like to see is the inside of Paul's Bohmann ...
  #3  
Old 01-21-2008, 06:34 PM
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I own a five year old carved Christoper, a 403, with violin corners. Initially, it was not without its problems (green wood was the suspect) but has turned into a GREAT bass for the money I paid (more that $1K below "MSRP.") If I had paid retail for it, I would have been chasing someone around with a fire axe. But, in that I got -- thanks to TBers, 2Xbasslistas and a very decent luthier/dealer -- a stupendous deal on it, and had planned to pour much of my "savings" on it into the highest-ticket luthier in town "maxing it out," I am, ultimately, elated with the deal I got.

You seem to be in the same position: Getting a Christopher for waaaaay below MSRP and having it "cherry'ed out" by a good luthier.

Call Christopher (Concord Group in Illinois) ask them what the MSRP on your model is. Offer the dealer half of that plus, say, a 20% -25% premium for the bass, fully repaired and totally set up to your specs and you've got a great deal on a (potentially) great bass.

As far as bargaining chips, I'd ask for a new (European maple) bridge (as opposed to the stock Chinese -- or, gawd forbid, Himalayan -- bridge), a new German endpin and your strings of choice. And a meticulous, FULL set up (nut, bridge, fb planing, soundpost, saddle, endpin, tailgut.

Trust me; "factory set-up" is NO set-up, it's a very crude assembly (unless Christopher has radically changed their business model); my soundpost arrived cut -- at both ends -- at straight 90 degree angles. The "adjustable" bridge was at its lowest point (no further adjustment was possible) yet the action was sky high. You want a meticulous pro luthier to get those aspects like they're supposed to be.

If I were you, I'd make a hardball offer and if the dealer doesn't like it, turn and walk out. Neither the dealer nor Christopher want to look at that bass for long, or again, much less pack and unpack it, pay to ship it. A great deal is to be had here.

Good luck!

Keep in mind that you are in a GREAT bargaining position because the market for busted up, left-handed Chinese bussetto basses is infintessimal, IMHO.
  #4  
Old 03-01-2008, 03:09 PM
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Update - David is now almost complete with lining up all the cracked seams. As he works along, he glues the seams to hold them in place.

This is a tedious process as he can only work at lining up 6-8 inches at a time to be sure the two sides are as seamless as possible when he glues them. He uses a variety of clamps and weights to hold the wood in place for the glue.

I added some new photos that shows some of the clamping work used to hold the sides together as glue is applied.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2000431...7603749845592/

Once all the seams are lined up, we will add a little more glue to each seam along with cleats to hold them together securely.
  #5  
Old 04-15-2008, 12:56 PM
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I have that very same exact bass, made in 2003 bought in 2004. Never had any sort of problems with it. It's bright sounding, but with a good tailpiece, strings, and a better endpin it sounds great. I paid $2450 for mine new. I'm sure you came out on top after all the repairs.
  #6  
Old 08-18-2008, 01:08 PM
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Well, it is finally ready. I took it home this weekend to test drive it.

It plays and sounds great.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2000431...7603749845592/
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  #7  
Old 08-18-2008, 03:04 PM
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Soundpost patch?
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  #8  
Old 08-18-2008, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Branstetter View Post
Soundpost patch?
Yes, besides cleats over all of the cracks, he added a soundpost patch.
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