Cleaning/Treating A Raw Wood Neck

[Ampig]

I've only seen linseed oil used. Will lemon oil work?

[TheSuzie]

Most all products called Lemon Oil are a SCAM. Products that call themselves lemon oil are usually mineral oil mixed with a solvent like naphta plus some artificial lemon scent and some coloring. You can check the MSDS on such products. They are not something I would use. Once someone puts that stuff on an instrument, I can't go anywhere near it without becoming ill.

Peace

[Ampig]

I've been using Formby's lemon oil treatment on bass fretboards for years. I find that it cleans and preserves them.

[uprightben]

Linseed oil is a finish, not a cleaner. It is what I use on the unvarnished part of a bass neck, it should not need to be reapplied. If you have some goobers on your neck it can probably be removed with rubbing alcohol, just keep it off of the varnish.

[bigolbassguy]

Could you provide a little more information about how/where you plan to use it?

[michaeln]

I sanded the back of the neck on my Shen until I was down to raw wood, using 320 grit paper, then finished up with 600 grit. It was VERY VERY smooth. I then wiped on a coat of BOILED linseed oil and let it dry for about 4 hours. I buffed it with 0000 steel wool, followed by another coat of linseed oil that I let cure overnight. Buffed that down with 0000 steel wool and it's done.

Not sticky, and my hand just glides so easily on it.

If you do use linseed oil it must be the BOILED variety (the raw stuff will never cure), and be sure to dispose of any rags or paper towels properly. I use paper towels and flush them down the toilet. A linseed oil soaked rag can actually spontaneously burst into flame as it dries, so take care of the rags properly.

[TheSuzie]

Originally Posted by Ampig

I've been using Formby's lemon oil treatment on bass fretboards for years. I find that it cleans and preserves them.

Formby's changed from mineral oil to paraffinic oils in 2002 (not sure if that is any better) but it is still 74% petroleum distillates. Nothing "lemon" about this "lemon oil" unless it is in the 1% of the ingredients listed as secret.

Ingredients from MSDS/Label

Proprietary or trade secret ingredient(s) 1%
Paraffinic oil, lightly refined 25%
Distillates, petroleum, hydrotreated light 74%

http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov...chas=TblBrands

[powerbass]

and be sure to dispose of any rags or paper towels properly. I use paper towels and flush them down the toilet. A linseed oil soaked rag can actually spontaneously burst into flame as it dries, so take care of the rags properly.[/quote]

Instead of flushing the oily rags down the toilet and into the septic system/water table you can either spread them out to dry on a porch/deck/shop floor or you can wet them then place them out to dry. I prefer Tung oil over linseed, dries harder w/a nice sheen, a nice oil based varnish can be thinned with mineral spirits as well - wipe on wipe off excess for a nice finish.

[michaeln]

Linseed oil is biodegradable (heck, it's even edible). It's not hurting the environment to flush a paper towel with less than a teaspoon of linseed oil on it.

I have used tung oil too, but I don't *want* a sheen. I want it dull but sealed, and that's what linseed oil gives me.

[bassphase]

Originally Posted by michaeln

Linseed oil is biodegradable (heck, it's even edible)....

Yes, flax seed oil is simply food grade linseed oil.


bob

[powerbass]

The formulated wood finishing products like Formby's and boiled linseed (Watco) have additives like mineral spirits, dryers, hardeners etc, without these additives the oil would never dry. Whenever possible I like to keep these chemicals out of the water chain.