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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #1  
Old 02-05-2007, 06:09 AM
Matthew Tucker's Avatar
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Luthier: Bresque Basses, rep: Paulin EUB
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sydney, Australia
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closing the back

luthiers, help again please!

I'm soon going to be closing the back of my bass. however, the plate which was perfectly flat a couple of months ago now isn't fitting too well at the corners. the corners seem to have lifted a bit, maybe 1.5mm at the tips.

Should I just force them down with clamps? Or should I trim the ribs and blocks so it fits perfectly? Or should I plane the back flat again?

Also, I'm not sure whether to glue the braces in now, or after the back is glued?
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  #2  
Old 02-05-2007, 07:21 AM
AES Fine Instruments
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Brewster, NY, USA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Tucker View Post
luthiers, help again please!

I'm soon going to be closing the back of my bass. however, the plate which was perfectly flat a couple of months ago now isn't fitting too well at the corners. the corners seem to have lifted a bit, maybe 1.5mm at the tips.

Should I just force them down with clamps? Or should I trim the ribs and blocks so it fits perfectly? Or should I plane the back flat again?

Also, I'm not sure whether to glue the braces in now, or after the back is glued?
The back braces always go in first. This will help the back retain its shape. A small amount of springing is not a big deal as long as it is not very localized. I would definately do some minor rib trimming after the back braces are in and the back has stabilized. Then glue it on immediately.
  #3  
Old 02-05-2007, 03:48 PM
Matthew Tucker's Avatar
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thanks that makes sense. Sometimes I look at the beast and I just don't know what to do next ...
  #4  
Old 02-05-2007, 04:31 PM
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I know you already know this, but it really pays to clamp the whole back up dry, in good light, so you can verify that everything CAN be pulled tight. Then when all is right, you can release one section at a time, beginning with the blocks, and work glue into the joint without allowing anything else to move. Replace the clamps and move on to the next section.

Jim Ham puts the glue on both surfaces, and allows it to dry hard. then he clamps everything correctly,and takes his steamer, and goes around the joints-- the steam re-constitutes the glue, and allows the clamps to pull the last tiny gaps out. When it dries, it is all done. I tried this on a violin, and evidently did something wrong-- steamed it too long, or something-- when I was done, there was no glue left in the joint... I may not have had enough to begin with, or may have washed it out with excessive steam. I may try it again someday.

Good luck, my friend.
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