Concern?

bassist1962 · #1 02-06-2010, 09:36 AM

This is my bridge. The feet are firmly on the top, but the front end is tilted/warped. I have other repairs that need done to the instrument, and can't afford a new bridge right now. I have been told by a luthier, as well as a violinist, and a couple other people that as long as the feet are not separating from the top, that this should be fine until I can afford a new bridge. Is this advice good, or should I be more concerned?

Cody Sisk · #2 02-06-2010, 07:01 PM

That all depends. The warpage, if it gets too extreme, can eventually cause the bridge to collapse even with the feet in full contact. How old is the bridge? Since it's raw wood, it will dry out over a few years time and become brittle. Combine that with warpage and you have yourself a recipe for disaster.

It might be alright for a few more months. I'd prioritize saving your scheckles and get the bridge replaced soon. Also, don't put on new strings until you get a new bridge. That could just accelerate your bridge collapsing.

bejoyous · #3 02-06-2010, 08:19 PM

There's a few things you can do that'll straighten the bridge a bit.

1) Lubricate the slots.

Loosen each string one at a time and check the string groove. If it's rough, take a small round needle file, place it in the grove and rotate it a little bit. Then take the softest pencil you can find in your house and liberally rub the lead in the groove so that the groove is shiny black.

This is a good time to deep clean your string with methyl hydrate or rubbing alcohol, BTW.

Re-tension the string and go on to the next string. With the slots lubricated, the string won't pull so much on the bridge.

2) Straighten your bridge.

Wipe off any rosin dust from the belly of you instrument.

Take a paperback novel that just fits between the D and A strings. Lay it so the spine lays flat on the face of the bridge. Give the bridge a short, firm thwack so that the top of the bridge moves a tiny bit towards the tailpiece.

Keep doing it until the fingerboard edge of the bridge lifts up a hair's width from the belly of the bass (maybe 0.5 millimeter).

After you equalize the tension, as below, the pressure between the top of the bridge and tailpiece edge of the feet should cause the bridge to straighten a bit. It won't happen instantly, let it sit overnight.

3) Equalize the string tension on each side of the bridge.

Each time you tune, there is a bit more tension of the north side of the bridge and it's constantly pulling the top edge of the bridge towards the fingerboard. That's why it is warped.

So, lay the bass on it's back and kneel beside you bass so you don't fall on it(!). If it's a round back stuff some towels around the edges of your bass so it won't wobble around.

Grab the string with each hand on either side of the bridge and place your thumbs on either side of the string on the top edge of the bridge. Pull straight up with your fingers and push down with your thumbs so the string lifts up about a millimeter and lower it again. Do this for each string. Be careful you don't pull the string off the bridge!

This will equalize the tension on each side of the bridge; and you'll appreciate the incredible pressure that's on the top of your instrument!

I recommend you do this after you finish playing and letting it stand overnight so that rosin dust doesn't get in the crack. By the morning the bridge should have straightened out a bit so the front edge is touching again. Keep doing steps 2 and 3 for a few nights and it'll straighten your bridge and prolong when you need a new bridge for a while.

billybass · #4 02-06-2010, 10:17 PM

Since it's raw wood, it will dry out over a few years time and become brittle.

Please elaborate on the issues of an old dry brittle bridge.

Cody Sisk · #5 02-06-2010, 10:22 PM

An old dry, brittle bridge is not really an issue unless it's warped. Think of a saltine cracker, it's easy to break in half but try crushing it end to end?

Cody Sisk · #6 02-06-2010, 10:25 PM

I have to disagree with Bejoyous. Tilting your bridge so that it's not in full contact with the top will only put dents in your top. Aside from the cosmetic damage, it can make it harder to fit a new bridge foot later, thus costing you more for a new bridge..

Gearhead43 · #7 02-06-2010, 10:28 PM

New bridge time.

gbaker · #8 02-07-2010, 12:10 AM

You can take some of the curve out of your bridge if you want to take it off the bass to do it. Keep some pressure on the top to keep the SP from falling - like 5 lbs of something like a bag of sand or sugar. Protect the top under the TP with a folded cloth. Loosen the strings and tilt the bridge out.

Use a steam iron or a tea kettle to apply some steam to both sides of the curved part but mainly to the concave side. This will swell the fibers and the curve will come out. Don't apply much pressure, it could crack it, let the steam do the work. When it is softer and straight, keep it that way by clamping it between a couple boards or weighing it down somehow. Let it sit overnight.

Apply graphite to the slots and reinstall, feet flat.

Still replace it ASAP.

Bijoux · #9 02-07-2010, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gearhead43

New bridge time.

+1

I think somebody mentioned a while ago that you need to get the bridge humid and you might even have to soak it in water before trying to straighten it out. I am pretty sure there is thread about it, although I don't remember if everybody else agreed on it.
But yes, just get a new bridge. Get a good one and it will last forever!

bassist1962 · #10 02-07-2010, 05:43 AM

This is the original bridge. The bass was purchased between 1959 & 1962. So it is not raw, it is dried, but it doesn't seem brittle, nor is it cracked. I have had it off of the bass several times in the last few years, so I know that it has durability. I am planning on a new bridge, I just need to know if I need to do this now, or can I wait for a few more months to a year? It has held up so far.

Jake deVilliers · #11 02-07-2010, 11:27 AM

"Is this advice good, or should I be more concerned?"

Your bridge is a little curved but if the feet are still touching all around there's no need to panic. You're aware of the issue and will keep an eye on it right?

bejoyous · #12 02-07-2010, 11:56 AM

Sorry, I only know what I've done on my own bass that worked.

bassist1962 · #13 02-07-2010, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers

"Is this advice good, or should I be more concerned?"

Your bridge is a little curved but if the feet are still touching all around there's no need to panic. You're aware of the issue and will keep an eye on it right?

Yeah, I am keeping an eye on it. I just needed to know others opinions cause it seems weird that nobody I talk to in person thinks it is that much of a problem.

Cody Sisk · #14 02-08-2010, 09:18 AM

gbaker's idea of steam-bending the bridge back straight might buy you some more time. The moisture will help if the bridge is brittle. Just know that steaming a bridge will shorten its life. It will warp more rapidly the second time around.

If I'm asked to bend a bridge rather than replace it, I like to drop the whole thing in boiling water for no more than 30 seconds. Most of the time this will make the bridge bend itself back into the correct position when I pull it out. (kinda cool to see) Then I sandwich it between two flat pieces of wood making sure the back stays flat with small wedges on the top of the bridge. Lightly clamp the pieces together and let it dry for 2-3 days. However, I always tell the customer there are no guarantees and a new bridge is always preferable. Though most of the time it will buy them a few months before coming in for a new bridge.

Good luck!

Bassman316 · #15 11-01-2010, 02:22 PM

Glad I found this thread. I have an Upton Standard that has bridge adjusters in the bridge. My bridge's feet are firmly planted on the top of the bass, but the top part of the bridge (above the adjusters) is tilted. It's not so much that the tip of the bridge is tilted as it is the whole section above the adjusters is pointed slightly toward the fingerboard. Should I go through with the suggested remedies of lubricating the slots and setting the bridge straight again?

Gearhead43 · #16 11-01-2010, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bassman316

Glad I found this thread. I have an Upton Standard that has bridge adjusters in the bridge. My bridge's feet are firmly planted on the top of the bass, but the top part of the bridge (above the adjusters) is tilted. It's not so much that the tip of the bridge is tilted as it is the whole section above the adjusters is pointed slightly toward the fingerboard. Should I go through with the suggested remedies of lubricating the slots and setting the bridge straight again?

Yes, and consistantly keeping the bridge straight is part of tuning a bass - every time - then that won't tend to happen.

Check it every time you tune, every day, etc and the bridge will live a lot longer.

robobass · #17 11-01-2010, 05:48 PM

Tea kettle fixes will extend the life a bit. All this stuff about lubricating and tension equalization probably won't. I think you need a new bridge soon. One thing to consider though, is that fitting the feet is the most labor intensive part of fitting a bridge. If your existing feet fit well, and you are willing to have adjusters on your bass, then just have a new bridge top installed with adjusters and your current feet. It may be much cheaper than you think. Call around, though. Prices vary widely.

J. Montgomery · #18 11-01-2010, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassist1962

I have had it off of the bass several times in the last few years, so I know that it has durability.

I'm embarrassed to say, but . . .

I took a bass to get repaired that had some bend in the bridge (I was taking it to have the action lowered). The bass luthier takes a look at it and says, "your bridge is on backwards." He reversed it, shaved it down, and no more bend.

Not saying thats what is going on here, just a word of warning to the other ignorant bassists like myself.

forester · #19 11-01-2010, 08:12 PM

the concern should be for the lack of light..from what i can't see, if you try any of the above and babysit it, it should stand straight for awhile.

Maxvla · #20 11-01-2010, 11:23 PM

The original poster's bridge seems to be in very usable shape. I'd certainly keep an eye on it, but unless you want to replace it, it would be fine for a while. I also agree with Cody regarding tipping the bridge. Damage to the varnish or wood under the feet can make fitting a bridge very frustrating.

As for the newest bump, it is actually much more dangerous to leave a bridge with adjusters leaning even the slightest bit. Unlike an uncut bridge, leaning pressure is difficult to perceive on an adjustable bridge. I've seen multiple adjustable bridges with pressure breaks around the screw holes in the upper portion of the bridge. If this happens while the bridge is under full tension you can do real damage to the top of your bass including but not limited to major varnish scratching and potential gouging of the top.