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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #21  
Old 07-12-2006, 09:15 AM
uptonbass's Avatar
Proprietor, Upton Bass String Instrument Co.
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Boston, MA 617-236-7706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Tucker
I have seen cracks repaired without taking the top off, by working glue into the crack then using a strip of brown paper glued along the crack on the outside of the bass. As the glue and the paper dries, it shrinks, supposedly pulling the crack tightly together in the process. Then when the repair is fully dry the brown paper and glue is sponged off. Seemed to work especially in the middle of the plate where cramps are harder to use.
Matt,

I can't say I agree with the paper having that strength or result in the many times I have used it. I guess if you have seen it you have seen it... maybe its a dif type of paper in sydney
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  #22  
Old 07-12-2006, 09:17 AM
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Location: Boston, MA 617-236-7706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farmerdude
I walked in on my bass in mid operation (bad thing to do) and saw a few things that scared me, but because I dont know a thing about repair-everything scares me when my bass in on the table...Since I could hardly eat or sleep from this experience, I went door to door around the shops in town and finally located the man I was looking for....(he had changed shops since I used him 3 years ago)...he gave me some "if thens" to check out and gave me hope that this is not such a bad thing, so ...I returned to my bass to see a closer-to-finish product and found that the 3" wide strips (I thought were being used) ended up being about 1" or so and the thickness of the top went from 6m +/-. to about 8 mm in the patch area...esthetically, the patch also blends in well (looks good)

I'm just a farmer so I have searched (what seem like to me) everywhere for info on material and methods of crack repair. Seems to be little info on the web (you guys dont talk about this ) but from discussions, I have found that luthiers have their own school of thought and top secret ingredients...it doesnt take long to get in an opinion war!!...the method above has apparently been used by some in Kansas City for years....so for now I'm gonna kick back-not worry and wait for the finish product (the tone). If we have a problem then....well I'm not thinking about that now

Thanks for the all the feedback, I appreciated you guys and the time you take to share you knowlege....
Hey, if the shop stands behind the work then other than your time and trips to the shop they will be fixing there own good or be it bad work.
  #23  
Old 07-13-2006, 02:29 PM
kip kip is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sausalito, Ca
I think this question is OK within this thread:
I just found a about a 2" crack on the lower E side bout, and it is vertical ( when the upright is upright). One side of the crack is higher then the other, like a geological plate shift. Does anyone know if this can be remedied without removing the top? And if so, how is this done? Thanks for any advise.
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  #24  
Old 07-13-2006, 03:39 PM
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Owner: Ken Smith Basses, Ltd.
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Perkasie, PA USA
Cool Lower E side?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kip
I think this question is OK within this thread:
I just found a about a 2" crack on the lower E side bout, and it is vertical ( when the upright is upright). One side of the crack is higher then the other, like a geological plate shift. Does anyone know if this can be remedied without removing the top? And if so, how is this done? Thanks for any advise.
If this is near the Bass Bar, take off the strings and get the Bass to the Hospital b4 the crack reaches the neck. If not, do it anyway. Not a friendly sign from what I am imagining from your description. To do it right, the Top must come off, I think. Post some pics and you will get more accurate advise if not the same I just gave you.
  #25  
Old 07-13-2006, 09:44 PM
kip kip is offline
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Location: Sausalito, Ca
strings are now detuned. Thanks Ken. The crack is not at the endpin, but about half way up the bout. I think the cause was trauma and not stress.
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  #26  
Old 07-13-2006, 10:07 PM
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Owner: Ken Smith Basses, Ltd.
 
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Location: Perkasie, PA USA
Cool where?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kip
strings are now detuned. Thanks Ken. The crack is not at the endpin, but about half way up the bout. I think the cause was trauma and not stress.
Is the crack on the Rib or on the Top. I can't tell now from your description.
  #27  
Old 07-14-2006, 07:27 AM
kip kip is offline
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the crack is on middle of the rib. I carry the bass in a sedan, on its back, front seat reclined. It's a tight fit and most likely it got whacked by the arm rest on the door. Good move, Kip.
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  #28  
Old 07-14-2006, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kip
the crack is on middle of the rib. I carry the bass in a sedan, on its back, front seat reclined. It's a tight fit and most likely it got whacked by the arm rest on the door. Good move, Kip.
Ouch! Do you carry it in a case? I ask because, on occasion, I have bumped a rib with my car door but the padding in the case is so thick there was never an issue.
  #29  
Old 07-14-2006, 08:03 AM
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Owner: Ken Smith Basses, Ltd.
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Perkasie, PA USA
Cool Top off?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kip
the crack is on middle of the rib. I carry the bass in a sedan, on its back, front seat reclined. It's a tight fit and most likely it got whacked by the arm rest on the door. Good move, Kip.
A skilled 'Bass' Luthier should be able to do a 'temp.' repair without removing the Top. I say Temp because the day the Top comes off for something more serious, you will want is studded a little better. I patch or two can be pulled turm with fine wire from the outside or Lined can be used as well. The Luthier doing the job can advise yoy best only after he sees the Bass in person.

My Gilkes is nearing its restoration completion. the Top hasn't been off in about 100 years. Many many Rib repairs were done from the outside over the years. While the Top was off, I had Arnold do EVERY Rib repair over again just to be sure it's in the best possible repaired condition. Many types of crack Repairs have been done without removing the Tops of Basses but it's always best to re-do them during restorations so you know it's done righg and you will sleep better as well knowing that.
  #30  
Old 07-14-2006, 10:31 AM
kip kip is offline
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Location: Sausalito, Ca
Whew

[quote=KSB - Ken Smith]"A skilled 'Bass' Luthier should be able to do a 'temp.' repair without removing the Top. "

It's not so good to need the repair, but its not as bad as I first thought. Thanks, Ken.

Next question: Any recommendations as to luthiers in the SF Bay area?
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  #31  
Old 07-14-2006, 04:21 PM
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Pat McCarthy is one. I don't have his number off-hand... I believe he is in Berkeley.
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  #32  
Old 07-19-2006, 12:28 AM
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Kip I have a large 7/8 bass that i fit on it's side in my 94 saturn sl(small if you dont know) with the seat layed back...so far i haven't had any door problems...seeing out that right window though is another thing. I think I might sell signs for bassists to put in there windows that tell others to get the heck outa our way
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