"Cutaway" Fingerboard Details - 5-String Bass?

[Pete G]

I just acquired a nice Elias 5-string that's going to get some work done on it.

One thing I've noticed is that the fingerboard extends all the way up to a fingered high D (on the G string), all the way across the fingerboard.

Even if I were Gary Karr or Edgar Meyer, I'm not sure I'd need that long a fingerboard, even on the G and D strings, let alone for the other strings. In other words, it looks like a bass that's crying out for a "cutaway" fingerboard to reduce mass and weight. (The fingerboard needs replacing anyway.)

Are there any standard practices recognized by luthiers on how one determines where to cut on a cutaway fingerboard? Or where to cut on a fingerboard for a 5-string bass?

Thanks!

[Kevin Hsieh]

doesn't upton make some pretty nice cutaway fingerboards? they come standard with their new basses.

i bet they make replacements
check it out
http://www.uptonbass.com/catalog/ima...ybrid_0000.jpg
i think this is what you're looking for?

[robobass]

If you're going to replace the board anyway, and you say you don't really need the high notes, then why worry about a cutaway at all? Why not just focus on the other qualities you will want? I find that extreme high notes (at least on my instruments) don't really sound when fingered directly anyway. When I want them, I access them through natural or false harmonics.
Robobass

[Pete G]

I doubt I'll ever need to go up to the D (on G), but who knows? But say that I want to go to B. I imagine I'd at least like the option of crossing to the D string.

However, I doubt I'd ever need to cross in that position to the A, let alone the E or B.

Hence, the cutaway approach would provide the access needed to the high notes I might play, but not load the bass with unnecessary ebony weight for the fingerboard that otherwise would lie across from the B.

[robobass]

I have no problem with a cutaway, but you really don't know how your bass is going to respond to a new FB. In most cases, a new board of the most standard variety will give you a B (that's about the highest note I would ever finger). In my experience, replacing a thin board with a nice new thick one always improved the bass dramatically, but I never went for an ultra long one. There certainly must be some point of diminishing returns, but why not just install a standard FB that gives you your "B", and if you feel later that you've lost sound due to mass, have it cut down later? I bet that if the job is well done, you won't want to change a thing!
Just trying to help,
Robobass

[Silversorcerer]

Originally Posted by Pete G

I doubt I'll ever need to go up to the D (on G), but who knows? But say that I want to go to B. I imagine I'd at least like the option of crossing to the D string.

However, I doubt I'd ever need to cross in that position to the A, let alone the E or B.

Hence, the cutaway approach would provide the access needed to the high notes I might play, but not load the bass with unnecessary ebony weight for the fingerboard that otherwise would lie across from the B.

How do you know that the extra fingerboard weight is a problem? All the parts of a well set up bass are tuned. The tuning depends on the mass. If you cut off the board or even replace the board that will alter the FB tuning. That might negatively affect the response and tone of the bass. Be careful with what you are doing there.

[Pete G]

Originally Posted by Silversorcerer

How do you know that the extra fingerboard weight is a problem? All the parts of a well set up bass are tuned. The tuning depends on the mass. If you cut off the board or even replace the board that will alter the FB tuning. That might negatively affect the response and tone of the bass. Be careful with what you are doing there.

It's not like I'd be going into a garage with a hacksaw or anything.

If I have this done, Mike Shank will do it, and if it's a bad idea, he'll talk me out of it. That's one reason I go to Mike.

[Silversorcerer]

Originally Posted by Pete G

It's not like I'd be going into a garage with a hacksaw or anything.

If I have this done, Mike Shank will do it, and if it's a bad idea, he'll talk me out of it. That's one reason I go to Mike.

Several players seem to like the extensions, and yes, you seem to know where you want it and where you don't want it. Personally, for those notes way up in the stratosphere, I just hit them with harmonics like robobass. Of course my board is not extended so I don't have that choice to make either, but I'm on the harmonics before the length stops. I also use the nice straight end of the board to guestimate where to find the harmonics, so that part of the board I don't stop notes on is still useful as a reference. And sometimes I tap / slap / hit that part of the board for the percussive effect, so I like having the wood there.

If you know what you want and you anticipate changing the board further along, can't see why talking to Mike Shank about it could hurt. It's totally a personal preference issue, but still, cutting off the wood will change the resonance frequency of the FB. You could add some weight behind the board to make up for that or have Mike do that as well, or you could just get a new board fitted cut to your preference and that might save you a little down time getting it all done at once.