ebonizing trouble?

[Vince_P9]

I recently ebonized my rosewood fingerboard with oil dye from stewmac. It looks beautiful, but 5 days later I am still getting an undesirable black residue from simply running my finger along the fingerboard. Do I need to use some sort of finishing oil or sealer?

[Gearhead43]

Rosewood looks really nice, why cover it up with black crap??

[Phil Rowan]

Originally Posted by Gearhead43

Rosewood looks really nice, why cover it up with black crap??

Ditto.

[Paul Warburton]

Originally Posted by Vince_P9

I recently ebonized my rosewood fingerboard with oil dye from stewmac. It looks beautiful, but 5 days later I am still getting an undesirable black residue from simply running my finger along the fingerboard. Do I need to use some sort of finishing oil or sealer?

I see an order for an ebony FB in your near future.
(Sorry, Swami).

[Phil Rowan]

Originally Posted by Paul Warburton

I see an order for an ebony FB in your near future.
(Sorry, Swami).

+1

[Jazzdogg]

Originally Posted by Vince_P9

I recently ebonized my rosewood fingerboard with oil dye from stewmac. It looks beautiful, but 5 days later I am still getting an undesirable black residue from simply running my finger along the fingerboard. Do I need to use some sort of finishing oil or sealer?

I counsel my woodworking students to research wood species and finishing products before they attempt a new finish. In the case of dalbergias like rosewood, characteristics endemic to the species must be taken into account when selecting finishing products, and the techniques used to apply them; the best results usually follow the completion of finishing test pieces before tackling the genuine article.

I would probably scrub the FB with rags and naphtha to remove as much of the oil dye as possible.

[T Kerr]

I'd wipe it thoroughly with lint free dry cloth to get all possible oil off without taking off black color, then give it a few thin coats of spray lacquer satin finish. That can protect it from rubbing off.

For the most trouble free fingerboard, I would go with stripping the black off and letting the natural wood show. Be a little different, have a brown fingerboard if you dare. :^)


For a more durable stain try minwax wood finish in ebony color. If you want the fingerboard very black, strip the oil dye off thoroughly, sand it clean and smooth after using stripping solvent, then it will be ready to stain. Don't sand above 320 grit as the wood may not accept the stain as well.
Takes several coats to get it black but it will get very black in 4 coats. Once it does, it dries hard and has not rubbed off on my hands yet. Follow directions closely to rub off excess within 15 minutes once wiped on. That goes for each coat. And let it dry well, 4-6 hours recommended, between each coat.

Tom

[Caoimhín]

Originally Posted by T Kerr

I'd wipe it thoroughly with lint free dry cloth to get all possible oil off without taking off black color, then give it a few thin coats of spray lacquer satin finish. That can protect it from rubbing off.

For the most trouble free fingerboard, I would go with stripping the black off and letting the natural wood show. Be a little different, have a brown fingerboard if you dare. :^)


For a more durable stain try minwax wood finish in ebony color. If you want the fingerboard very black, strip the oil dye off thoroughly, sand it clean and smooth after using stripping solvent, then it will be ready to stain. Don't sand above 320 grit as the wood may not accept the stain as well.
Takes several coats to get it black but it will get very black in 4 coats. Once it does, it dries hard and has not rubbed off on my hands yet. Follow directions closely to rub off excess within 15 minutes once wiped on. That goes for each coat. And let it dry well, 4-6 hours recommended, between each coat.

Tom

Hi Tom

Sorry to ask what might seem a silly question, but when you say not to sand "above" 320 - do you mean not to go coarser or finer?

Kev

[T Kerr]

Above would be higher as in higher # grit like 400, 600 etc. Smoothing above 320 has caused some woods in my experience to not accept stain as well as leaving it at 320 grit sanded.
Tom

[forester]

try this..blow drier or heat gun.. warm the dyed area untill the little beads of black oil surface then wipe clean. you can seal it when you're satisfied that you have removed the excess oil (which is what's on your fingers).
this is generaly done about 10 min after the dye application,but it should still be effective for the most part.
the trouble with black dyes, over time and wear, they tend to start turning blue or green depending on what's underneath.
good luck

[Vince_P9]

Tom,

I see minwax also offers protective finishes. Have you used any of these in addition to the ebony stain?