Endpin that locks securely?

[Monte]

I have a Solano Klotz copy that is heavy. It has a really nice Ulsa endpin, but as tight as I can tighten the knob on the second notch it is heavy enough that it will slip occasionally.

Any recommendations on an endpin or mod to the Ulsa to keep it secure? I can tighten it with pliers, but I'm worried I might break the brass screw and be screwed....

[Mingus]

Maybe you should get one of those endpins with notches instead.

[Jake deVilliers]

The KC Strings and Johnny Atomic endpins have a pin that goes into your endpin socket and a thicker wooden leg that rests on the endpin socket itself - absolutely slip proof and available in the TalkBass Bazaar.

[Monte]

Originally Posted by Mingus

Maybe you should get one of those endpins with notches instead.

It has notches. The Ulsa is really nice, but it is really heavy. If I lean on the bass too much while in thumb position it will slip sometimes down to the next notch.

[Monte]

Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers

The KC Strings and Johnny Atomic endpins have a pin that goes into your endpin socket and a thicker wooden leg that rests on the endpin socket itself - absolutely slip proof and available in the TalkBass Bazaar.

I just PM'd Johnny.

Thanks!

[Michael Eisenman]

I have an endpin with detents. I needed an intermediate position, so I used a grinder (corner of the wheel) to create another detent.

It's invisible because it's either in working position or in the bass when the pin is retracted.

[msw]

I have had the problem of wearing out the thumb screw on an annual basis for the last 25 years. It is more than annoying to feel the bass slipping or worse to have it come crashing down while in the thumb position! I recently ordered a Johnny Atomic end-pin and expect it in the next 10 days or so. I will post as soon as I use it. Hopefully this is THE solution.

[Bob Branstetter]

Originally Posted by Monte

I have a Solano Klotz copy that is heavy. It has a really nice Ulsa endpin, but as tight as I can tighten the knob on the second notch it is heavy enough that it will slip occasionally.

Any recommendations on an endpin or mod to the Ulsa to keep it secure? I can tighten it with pliers, but I'm worried I might break the brass screw and be screwed....

The ULSA endpins are very good quality endpins and this is an unusual problem for one of those. If you always use the same notch, just file the notch a little deeper (or take it to someone with a metal lathe if you are a neat freak)

[KSB - Ken Smith]

I have never had that problem myself is everything was tight BUT if you want one that wont slip, try the PegLeg from KC.

They will custom make the length you need.


I had them make 2 of them for the two Endpin types I use on my main personal Basses. They work great and sound better as well. I also carry my regular endpin in case I stand or use a different height stool but they usually stay in the Bag.

[Monte]

Originally Posted by Bob Branstetter

The ULSA endpins are very good quality endpins and this is an unusual problem for one of those. If you always use the same notch, just file the notch a little deeper (or take it to someone with a metal lathe if you are a neat freak)

Hmm, that sounds like a really good idea.

Thanks Bob! I am interested in one of the bottomed out enpins, but it is one more thing to carry as I use a Kolstein stroller. I would need to keep the Ulsa in as I carried it.

Monte

[anonymous12251111]

Originally Posted by KSB - Ken Smith

I have never had that problem myself is everything was tight BUT if you want one that wont slip, try the PegLeg from KC.

They will custom make the length you need.


I had them make 2 of them for the two Endpin types I use on my main personal Basses. They work great and sound better as well. I also carry my regular endpin in case I stand or use a different height stool but they usually stay in the Bag.

Hey Ken, is the peg-leg kind of like the same idea as the Laborie pin? How did you like the peg-leg?

[dcr]

I'll vote for my old buddy, Johnny Atomic and his endpin. Drop him a line here on TB.




dcr

[toman]

I find with the notched endpins that in my often scattered state, I sometimes don't make it quite into the notch, thus causing a great "ka-chunk" or worse yet, a complete collapse. Maybe that's the case here? I dunno. Either way I like the idea of a fixed-length pin, just as a no brainer. Problem with that is that I end up sitting on different stools and sometimes I like to raise or lower my bass a notch, depending on what I'm playing.

I think we need some kind of a hydraulic system for basses, you know, "juice, yo!" Just imagine what the rockabilly guys could do with it...

[arnoldschnitzer]

The problem with most endpins is that the screw is relatively soft (brass or bronze) while the pin is hard (stainless steel). Over time the rounded end of the screw flattens out and no longer does its job because it can't positively engage the slots in the endpin. The clutch-type endpins (i.e. KC Strings) don't suffer from this problem, but some wheel users find these type less secure when rolling. Sometimes I file the endpin slots wider and more square, which lets the flattened screw tip engage better. Removing the screw to repair the end of it is difficult, sometimes impossible, as the mushroomed end tends to prevent it from unscrewing all the way.

[KSB - Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Calvin Marks

Hey Ken, is the peg-leg kind of like the same idea as the Laborie pin? How did you like the peg-leg?

The Pegleg goes in the regular endpin socket. I think they make a tilted attachment as well so that would be another type of fit. The ones I pictured above I use in my Basses. I have one with the standard 3/8" to adapt to the Gotz type endpin and another with a 1/2" bore which I put the Graphite in my self from a cut-off which KC didn't have at the time. This way I have one for each type of socket that's already on my Basses.

Originally I measured the 1/2" for my Gilkes which has a graphite endpin and the 3/8" for my Martini which has a steel endpin. If the Bass I use is longer or shorter than the ones measured for, I have to adjust to the altered height of the Bass as these are not adjustable.

The Bass sits ON the Pegleg. The Screw tightener is only to hold it from falling out, not to hold it at the adjusted height. Therefore, a better transfer of sound to the floor. Also, you don't have a long rod up inside the Bass stealing tone or volume.

I first tested this up at Arnold's with my friends Viennese Bass. There was a huge difference of sound and tone especially from 10 feet away. His Bass was deeper and louder with the Pegleg from the full length steel rod.

The other endpin I like is the Graphite one. I don't know the brand Arnold gets but you can ask him. There is only a slight difference in sound that I noticed with the pegleg as compared to the Graphite. Also, on the steel rod, I cut mine short so very little sticks inside the bass past the block. This helps too but as mentioned earlier, you have to catch the notch just right so it doesn't slip. On the Graphite, cutting the excess length doesn't seem to matter much at all on the sound as the Graphite is more forgiving I guess.

The difference comparing the pegleg to the shorter steel rod is less but still very noticeable to me.

[KSB - Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by arnoldschnitzer

The problem with most endpins is that the screw is relatively soft (brass or bronze) while the pin is hard (stainless steel). Over time the rounded end of the screw flattens out and no longer does its job because it can't positively engage the slots in the endpin. The clutch-type endpins (i.e. KC Strings) don't suffer from this problem, but some wheel users find these type less secure when rolling. Sometimes I file the endpin slots wider and more square, which lets the flattened screw tip engage better. Removing the screw to repair the end of it is difficult, sometimes impossible, as the mushroomed end tends to prevent it from unscrewing all the way.

I hate Mushrooms!

[Dr Rod]

The stetson pin (stringbass.com) is a massive brute. The screw is hard, it has a clutch that locks in, thick no-wabble rod, carbide tip, and if you are a wheel user you can buy their snap on wheel system so you don't have to pull out the rod when using the wheel.

[anonymous12251111]

Originally Posted by Dr Rod

The stetson pin (stringbass.com) is a massive brute. The screw is hard, it has a clutch that locks in, thick no-wabble rod, carbide tip, and if you are a wheel user you can buy their snap on wheel system so you don't have to pull out the rod when using the wheel.

I'm personally considering this endpin system

[Monte]

Originally Posted by Monte

Hmm, that sounds like a really good idea.

Thanks Bob! I am interested in one of the bottomed out enpins, but it is one more thing to carry as I use a Kolstein stroller. I would need to keep the Ulsa in as I carried it.

Monte

Well this ended up being the winner.

I stopped by a machine shop in Tupelo during lunch and the guy put my Ulsa on his lathe and went about twice as deep and more squared than the original slot.

Wouldn't take a dime either.

Just got home and practiced and even leaning hard on the bass I couldn't get it to slip.

Thanks to everyone for the advice.

Monte

[Gearhead43]

I have an Atomic endpin and it is great. Very well constructed, handmade and very nice looking. He will make you one in just about any wood you want, exotic or otherwise. Rosewood, cocobolo, flamed maple, etc. He does a great job.

Althought his standard pins are for use when playing standing up, he also has made pins that can be set to more than one height by adding or removing matching turned wood "sleeves". You can have one length for sitting, and take out the sleeve for standing.