False button - visual tutorial?

NC Violone · #1 12-16-2008, 10:51 AM

Anyone have an photos of the steps for a button repair? I've not done one before, but need to on a bass I'm going to try and restore.

Thanks.

kurt ratering · #2 12-16-2008, 11:05 AM

i dont have any pics, but i can make a recomendation. get the Hans Wieshar/Margret Shipman book titled something like " violin repair and restoration, a manuel for luthiers and players" i know its geared towards fiddles, violas, and to a lesser extent cellos, but most ofthe info in there is very transferable to the bass. worth every penny and i would recomend it to anyone.

ctregan · #3 12-16-2008, 11:19 AM

http://www.stringrepair.com/Double_B...estoration.htm

You can find some pictures above. Scroll down to "Back Restoration".

NC Violone · #4 12-17-2008, 10:25 AM

Thanks for the link, and the book suggestion.

Eric Rene Roy · #5 12-17-2008, 01:51 PM

actually although its a vn, this page shows a more thorough walk through.

http://www.stringrepair.com/Violin_D...estoration.htm

NC Violone · #6 12-17-2008, 02:11 PM

Thanks.

So, you actually remove some of the wood of the back/button, graft new wood to this area, and then shave it down so that the combined depth of the graft and button are equal the original thickness of the button?

Do remove wood from the heel?

Eric Rene Roy · #7 12-17-2008, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NC Violone

So, you actually remove some of the wood of the back/button, graft new wood to this area, and then shave it down so that the combined depth of the graft and button are equal the original thickness of the button?

Yes, at least half to 2/3 of the original material needs to hit the floor. Unlike the Weishaar book, I don't like inlaying the graft with square edges...I feel with the expansion/contraction of wood your just making a new fracture point at the edges of the graft. I like round grafts that have the edges feather out to nothing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NC Violone

Do remove wood from the heel?

Not by choice.

Martin Sheridan · #8 12-17-2008, 06:11 PM

I didn't check the sites above and the Shipman/Weishaar book is the best of its kind. However, the late Harry Wake of San Diego put out a book on repair that has some nice drawings of this procedure, and it's about $325 less than the Weishaar book. I think all of his books are still available from the suppliers and you might find them on line. I met Harry when he was only about 90. He was an intelligent man who grew up in a violin shop in England, but became an engineer in San Diego. If memory serves he was a soldier in The Great War (WWI).

Take your time and you'll do fine.

Eric Rene Roy · #9 12-17-2008, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NC Violone

Thanks.

oh, one more tip for you...if you dont want to get all fancy with the plaster cast...just mix up some plaster, through it in a ziplock bag and toss it on the area you want to cast. When its hard you can take it out of the bag and let it sit for a few days to let the moisture evaporate out. It should have a nice ring to it when its good and hard. If you try to use it before the water is out of it...it will just crack on you.

NC Violone · #10 12-17-2008, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eroy

Yes, at least half to 2/3 of the original material needs to hit the floor.

Excellent. Thanks. That's what I thought was going on in the photos. I think my second guessing comes more from wondering how to get the wood out at the same depth in the area I make the graft for (note: probably some great tools for this, that I probably don't have yet).

Thanks very much!

NC Violone · #11 12-17-2008, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eroy

oh, one more tip for you...if you dont want to get all fancy with the plaster cast...

The break is right along the purfling, and it's completely broken. The part of the button that lays over the heal is still attached to the heal, and I'm guessing that I need to get it off and re-attached somehow to the back in order to make an accurate cast. I knew it would have to come off, but hadn't thought about the cast.

kurt ratering · #12 12-18-2008, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eroy

oh, one more tip for you...if you dont want to get all fancy with the plaster cast...just mix up some plaster, through it in a ziplock bag and toss it on the area you want to cast. When its hard you can take it out of the bag and let it sit for a few days to let the moisture evaporate out. It should have a nice ring to it when its good and hard. If you try to use it before the water is out of it...it will just crack on you.

that is an excellent idea. making dams isnt that much fun.