Fitting new bridge, some advice needed-It's a tricky task!

[WelshJonny]

I've just got a faulous new adjustable bridge from Bob Golhier and I'm about to thin-out the top upper part, as per instructions. What I'm not sure of is the width necessary at the string contact point, how thin should it be ideally? Would a belt sander be to severe for the task? As for shaping the feet to the profile of the bass top, I had no idea how tricky this seemingly straight forward task would be-made much harder by the fact that the feet have a tendancy to swivel with the sanding action-nightmare!! Any tips would be swell! Thanks, Jon

[brevardbass]

WelshJohnny, I read thru these threads first.
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/search...archid=6754076

Bob just sent me instructions on how to cut his bridge, thus answering my questions on the rat tail files needed to cut the string slots. Arnolds' lipstick method seems to be the most foolproof as far as getting your bridge feet to make full contact.

I plan on using a table sander I bought at HD to narrow the top of the bridge, measuring the width with calipers on my existing bridge to make sure I dont sand too much or too little. I dont think a belt sander will work since you'll have to make sure you hold it and the bridge steady. I have seen a stand that you put your belt sander in, and it basically converts it into a table sander....that might work. If you dont have an existing bridge to copy off of, I'd say go down to a bass store with your calipers and get some measurements.....if they all seem to be within the ballpark, I'd take the average out of all of them.

My dilemma is, I bought a brand new bass with great action and a nice, growly tone. I found out why....the bridge foot was sitting right on top of the soundpost, and Ken answered my question as to where I need to place it (centered between the f-hole notches.) Once I did that, the sound wasn't as focused and the string action is higher, so Im going to experiment with this new bridge, use my old one as a template first, and then I'll try cutting the feet and filing the string slots some more to lower the action.

Whether I need to spread the feet 3-4 mm before fitting is still an enigma, Im going to re-read thru everything and see what the gurus here think.

[KSB - Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by brevardbass

WelshJohnny, I read thru these threads first.
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/search...archid=6754076

Bob just sent me instructions on how to cut his bridge, thus answering my questions on the rat tail files needed to cut the string slots. Arnolds' lipstick method seems to be the most foolproof as far as getting your bridge feet to make full contact.

I plan on using a table sander I bought at HD to narrow the top of the bridge, measuring the width with calipers on my existing bridge to make sure I dont sand too much or too little. I dont think a belt sander will work since you'll have to make sure you hold it and the bridge steady. I have seen a stand that you put your belt sander in, and it basically converts it into a table sander....that might work. If you dont have an existing bridge to copy off of, I'd say go down to a bass store with your calipers and get some measurements.....if they all seem to be within the ballpark, I'd take the average out of all of them.

My dilemma is, I bought a brand new bass with great action and a nice, growly tone. I found out why....the bridge foot was sitting right on top of the soundpost, and Ken answered my question as to where I need to place it (centered between the f-hole notches.) Once I did that, the sound wasn't as focused and the string action is higher, so Im going to experiment with this new bridge, use my old one as a template first, and then I'll try cutting the feet and filing the string slots some more to lower the action.

Whether I need to spread the feet 3-4 mm before fitting is still an enigma, Im going to re-read thru everything and see what the gurus here think.

Ken Who?

NO.. The Soundpost is Not centered between the f-hole notches on the top. The Bridge should be 'lined up' and centered between the F-notchs and the Soundpost centered under the G-foot of the Bridge and about 1 post thickness below it or rather 3/4"-1" below the G-foot of the Bridge.

On spreading the Bridge feet apart, I don't know if that's possible on a Bass bridge unless you have one made of rubber.

You seem to have too many basic questions un-answered here or at lease in your mind. I don't think you are ready to work on a Bass without being instructed one-on-on by a professional Bass Luthier.

[WelshJonny]

Thanks Brev, but that link goes nowhere. I meant a TABLE sander, crumbs, a belt sander would be wild! Anyway, does anyone some recommended parameteres for the bridge top width? Thanks.

[brevardbass]

Welsh, since I cant get the link to work, do a search using "fitting bridge" keywords, go to advanced search>search titles only> Setup and Repair(DB), that should get you there.
I posted a pic with the dimensions that you were asking about.

Ken, I'd posted a couple months earlier about a brand new Strunal I bought where the bridge came out of the box sitting right over the soundpost. I liked the sound/action but you'd answered my question about the bridge being in the wrong position. When I stated I moved "it" (in the above post) I meant the bridge, not the soundpost. Sorry about the confusion. I'd posted under a different name/location at the time and wasn't able to retrieve my login info after the email account deleted, hence the new screen name.

I took it to a luthier, like you stated. I had him install a new bridge since my original one passed the "lipstick" test. I figured if he screwed it up, I'd still have my original bridge intact. I bought a brand new Kolstein bridge and gave it to him...when I got my bass back, I could slide a credit card underneath the corners of both feet, the bridge was tilted forward, and I used lipstick as recommended on here to check his handiwork...it was full of voids. After spilling epoxy on the front of my brand new bass, he tried to buff it out, sanded thru the finish and touched it up with a red magic marker. Having just moved here, I took it to a local shop that a player down here recommended, and it was a disaster.
I know fitting a bridge isn't for the faint of heart, but for 60 bucks (I already have all the tools from other woodworking projects) I wanted to try this myself. While Im looking for a good luthier I'd take my newly cut bridge and the original bridge to him, so he could give me an honest opinion about my DIY results and also shave the feet or cut the string slots on my original. If you knew of a good luthier in the Orlando area (or farther) I'd take your advice as the gospel having owned one of your electric basses.....my Smith played like butter.
As far as spreading the feet 3-4 mm, only one poster mentioned this, so if you're saying its impossible, that's good enough for me.
Hopefully that clarifies things....thank you again for your advice.