Getting the ends of the soundpost to match the curvature of the top/bottom?

[arnoldschnitzer]

A solid strip of wood creates strong new fault lines along its edges, and also stiffens that area of the plate too much. The plate is likely to crack along the strip's edge when the bass becomes stressed. The ideal method involves using thin diamond-shaped cleats with the grain running about 30 degrees or so to the grain of the plate. This method is considered least likely to contribute to new cracks or to damage the tone. That said, it is common for many makers/repairers to install a solid strip across the grain running down the center of a flat back where the joint is, and this can be just fine IMHO.

[erik II]

Originally Posted by Hector Wolff

How can you say this is curve adaptive?

You're right, "surface angle adaptive" would be more correct.
Guess I was thinking that when the post is moved, the contact surface angles change due to the curving of the plates.

The "end cups" can be fit to the inside curvature of the plates if necessary.
But I basically assumed that within such a small circular area the surface is practically flat...

Also, the threads for length adjustment can be made larger, the sketch just shows the idea in principle.

[Silversorcerer]

I like part of erik II's idea. The adjustable length part. However, it would make more sense if something like a bridge adjuster went in there, so that lengthing it would not turn the plate contact surfaces. It could be fit so that the sound post was 2 pieces, the top spuce and the bottom maple, with the maple accepting the threaded end of the adjuster. I wouldn't be too concerned with sound transmission through the post, since that isn't the posts primary function. If it really changed the sound, then the idea could be rejected in total. As far as using maple on the piece contacting the rear plate instead of spruce: It seems that the primary reason for using spruce is to protect the top plate by using wood that is just as soft for the post. Since spruce would still be used for that interface, and the maple part would be in contact with the back plate, it might work OK. I would think it would be worth a try, and I might make a post like that. Of course you still have to set it, same as before. you just wouldn't have to change it out with the weather, just adjust the length.

[lownotes02]

Very informative post, Arnold. Muchas gracias. I wouldve never thought about a "furring strip" creating a fault line for another crack, but that makes total sense.
Not to change the subject, but I was looking at your website the other day and called the phone number. Will answered the phone. He was great...spent about 30 mins with me answering all my questions about the New Standards, how long the wait was to have one built, etc. I was leaning towards the La Scala, but after talking to him, Im about 50/50 between that and the Cleveland hybrid.

Thanks Silversorcerer for the info about GA luthiers. Hopefully after the Mittenwald is fixed, and Im able to find a buyer, the proceeds will help offset the cost of my New Standard purchase.

[myrick]

Originally Posted by nicklloyd

It's as easy as setting a neck: make a hole, glue it in.

this line cracked me up, Nnick.

Reminds me of a remark I once heard about how anyone can play guitar just like John McLaughlin: "Just wiggle the pick in your right hand up and down real fast, finger out some amazing stuff with your left, and care deeply and passionately about every single note, and you're there."