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03-31-2008, 09:54 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Syracuse N.Y. | | | graduations on back plate Started to hollow out the back plate, and had a question:
Is there an acceptable +/- factor in the final thickness? I am using a digital caliper that reads to .00 mm.
Should I aim for .01 +/-? or is .10 +/- more reasonable?
Or is .25 mm more realistic?
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Last edited by ctregan : 07-05-2008 at 08:47 PM.
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03-31-2008, 09:58 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Syracuse N.Y. | | | There is a lot of real estate here.....
Last edited by ctregan : 07-05-2008 at 08:47 PM.
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04-01-2008, 07:19 AM
|  | Supporting Member Luthier: Bresque Basses, rep: Paulin EUB | | Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Sydney, Australia | | | That's a very small gouge for hogging all that wood out. Try something bigger, or at least with a heftier handle. Also, I reckon drilling too many holes is going to make the carving work harder, not easier. I use the drill holes as a depth guide only. The wood removal is done with a big blade or an arched-sole scrub plane. | 
04-01-2008, 07:40 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: cornwall UK | | | i'm under the impression that the flat back to the bass that i am building should have a uniform thickness across the whole area of the plate.
is this still the case with an arched back plate.... and are the plate thicknesses of an arched back thinner overall to maximise the structural efficiency of the arch
chris | 
04-01-2008, 08:00 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Syracuse N.Y. | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Tucker That's a very small gouge for hogging all that wood out. Try something bigger, or at least with a heftier handle. | I have been using a mallet with the gouges but I must be carful as the top gets thinner and more fragile. | 
04-01-2008, 10:07 AM
| | Registered User humble instrument maker | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: saskatoon Saskatchewan Canada | | Hey CT. I have a thickness guage similar to yours. I didn't pay much attention to anything past the decimal. I don't think you have to be that accurate with the bigger instruments. I'd be careful with the mallet, as you've said. A bigger, flatter chisel would help you out a bit. This tool was awesome for me: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,310&p=54888
Hi Chris, carved, arched backs are thicker in the center, and thin to the upper, lower bouts. Flat backs are uniformish, as you say. they are thicker than the thinnest parts of an arched one, but thinner than the center of one. They kinda split the difference, I think. | 
04-01-2008, 11:40 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: cornwall UK | | | thanks Darren...i'm not sure though if i'm totally clear.
i underestand from what you say that there is a gradation in thickness increasing from North to mid line of C-bout and then decreasing towards the South so to speak...but what about across the width of the plate
out of interest can you give some sort of guide thicknesses that might apply as compared to a flat back
chris | 
04-01-2008, 11:42 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: cornwall UK | | | darren...i also meant to say that the Veritas pullshave looks to be a great bit of kit
chris | 
04-01-2008, 07:01 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sioux Falls, SD | | | Seconded. Thanks for showing that to us.
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04-01-2008, 07:36 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: emmitsburg, maryland | | CT this is where sharp is an understatement...dry cherry does not like to be pushed or pulled... be wary if in some areas the grain is running away towards the outside of the back ..your gouging can chase it through.
gouge : (to cheat, defraud, swindle or extort) and, rarely, as a noun meaning a swindler (gouger). 
Last edited by forester : 04-02-2008 at 08:55 PM.
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04-01-2008, 09:04 PM
| | Registered User humble instrument maker | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: saskatoon Saskatchewan Canada | | Hi Chris
The last page of this pdf shows some nice graduation patterns for some fiddles. Arched basses follow along these line, but thicker. The concept is the same : http://www.bormanviolins.com/Article...%20Article.pdf
I think, in general, arched basses start aroundish 12 mm or so at the thickest areas, and end up 5mm-ish at the thinnest.
I can't really say much about flat backs, I have no experience with them. Maybe Mathew can shed some light.I think theyare around 7mm or so? | 
04-01-2008, 09:07 PM
| | Registered User humble instrument maker | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: saskatoon Saskatchewan Canada | | Depending on wood used, etc, etc.  | 
04-01-2008, 10:17 PM
|  | Supporting Member Luthier: Bresque Basses, rep: Paulin EUB | | Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Sydney, Australia | | | Yes it depends on the wood. I have only experience with my flatbacks and I chose to keep them heavier in the centre of the plate, the backs have a slight convexity via the shaped braces. heavier in the centre of the plate also means there's a larger glue surface for that centre joint.
Roundbacks? Peter Chandler gives common measurements in his book; as I recall yeah its about 6mm at the edges and 8-9mm in the centre. But it depends on the wood!
I have seen a roundback get a crossbrace carved in at soundpost location.
Jean Auray has experimented with thinner back graduations and a number of integral "crossbraces" carved into the back plates. No idea what the result is. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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