Having problems with adjusting the bridge

bassmasta94 · #1 07-24-2010, 05:31 PM

Hey guys, ive had my bass for about a year now, and i have a david gage realist pickup on it, and every time i want to adjust the bridge to lower or raise the action it always a HUGE hassle because the foot of the bridge moves when i turn the adjusting wheel. I think on the right bridge foot it definatly has something to do with the pickup thats under the bridge, but the foot also moves on the left side. Maybe i just have a crappy bridge, or not enough tension on my strings. I thought one of you guys could tell me what i could do to fix this or any tips that youve encountered yourself if youd had this problem. Thanks

Dadagoboi · #2 07-24-2010, 05:36 PM

It would DEFINITELY help if we knew what brand/model your bass is.

arnoldschnitzer · #3 07-24-2010, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dadagoboi

It would DEFINITELY help if we knew what brand/model your bass is.

Why is that?

bassmasta94 · #4 07-24-2010, 05:50 PM

Yeah i dont see why that would help too much.

zeytoun · #5 07-24-2010, 08:22 PM

You should put some titebond under your bridge feet.

Just kidding.

Maybe there is too much friction between the adjusters and your bridge feet? Maybe a little graphite or beeswax would help? IANAL (I am not a luthier)

bejoyous · #6 07-24-2010, 08:47 PM

It's just that there is more friction between the threads of the adjusters and the tapped hole than the contact between the bottom of the feet and the copper wafer of the pickup.

I wouldn't recommend putting any lubricant on the threads as this would impede some transmission of vibrations.

Since most people don't adjust the height of the bridge too often, I would recommend using an adjustable pipe wrench (or something similar) to hold the foot of the bridge while adjusting the height of the bridge. Use a rag to prevent the metal from marring the belly of the bass.

Also, the bottom of the foot may not be carved correctly so it pivots around a high spot.

bassmasta94 · #7 07-24-2010, 08:58 PM

Alright thanks guys, i usually do the same thing as "bejoyous" said. Its just a little tedious.

**Matthew Tucker** · #8 07-25-2010, 02:45 AM

a good foot-fit and a bit of rosin powder under each bridge foot helps keep them in place. Also a bit of candlewax on the adjuster threads does no harm and keeps them turning freely.

I suspect that when the realist was installed the bridge feet were not adjusted to compensate for the extra thickness under the E foot.

Paul Warburton · #9 07-25-2010, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dadagoboi

It would DEFINITELY help if we knew what brand/model your bass is.

Mine says Gasparo.........something. Whatcha' got on that one?

Greg Clinkingbeard · #10 07-25-2010, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthew Tucker

I suspect that when the realist was installed the bridge feet were not adjusted to compensate for the extra thickness under the E foot.

+1. Chances are some wood needs to come off the G side of the E foot. Try raising the G adjuster a mm or two and see if the E foot becomes more stable.

drurb · #11 07-25-2010, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bejoyous

I wouldn't recommend putting any lubricant on the threads as this would impede some transmission of vibrations.

I agree that this isn't the solution but not because I believe the lubricant would impeded vibrations. Seems to be a bridge-foot/top fitting issue.

arnoldschnitzer · #12 07-25-2010, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bejoyous

I wouldn't recommend putting any lubricant on the threads as this would impede some transmission of vibrations.

This was tongue-in-cheek, right?

Greg Clinkingbeard · #13 07-25-2010, 09:45 AM

Nothing wrong with a little lube.

longfinger · #14 07-25-2010, 10:11 AM

Are the wheels easy to turn, but the feet move anyways?
Or are the wheels incredibly tight to move, requiring full shoulder, arm, and hand strength to rotate, which when applied causes the feet to turn?

**Matthew Tucker** · #15 07-25-2010, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clink

Chances are some wood needs to come off the G side of the E foot. Try raising the G adjuster a mm or two and see if the E foot becomes more stable.

... but sometimes it's the G side of the G foot!

Here's a quick cheat - if the adjuster threads are in the UPPER part of the leg, you can sometimes enlarge the unthreaded hole in the G foot slightly (SLIGHTLY!) to allow the foot to tilt back into position.

The rosin trick should do it, though. try that first.

forester · #16 07-25-2010, 10:58 AM

[quote=Matthew Tucker;9460577]... but sometimes it's the G side of the G foot!

Here's a quick cheat

not a cheat...standard operating procedure

more reason to avoid threading the foot, just opinion.

**Matthew Tucker** · #17 07-25-2010, 11:23 AM

For me, its not a SOP, because I don't like making windmills ... :-)

Greg Clinkingbeard · #18 07-25-2010, 11:38 AM

Hadn't thought of that. A little forgiveness in the unthreaded portion of the bridge is a good thing. I have had to shave some wood off the E feet on two bridges but the G feet were fine. In both cases, the unthreaded holes allowed the G feet to fit well.

SplitNick · #19 07-25-2010, 01:53 PM

I have similar problems with my adjusters. There is just too much friction. My solution though I have yet to test it a significant amount of times is this:

I use two 1/2" by 1/2" sticks about 8" long. I place these on either side of the bridge at the feet. I clamp each end to so each foot is holding the other in position. Then I make my adjustments.

It being in the mid to high 90's everyday here now. I probably need to do this again.

davpal · #20 07-25-2010, 02:56 PM

I hold the bridge foot with my left hand while I turn the adjuster with my right.