HELP! Bottom collapsed is it worth repairing?

bruiser1964 · #1 11-19-2009, 04:09 PM

Hi, I'm new I did look to see if anyone else had a thread like this but couldn't see one so apologies if its in the wrong place.

Ive only been playing DB for a year - electric bass for 20+ years.

I have a cheap second hand plywood chinese 3/4 DB. I love the sound from it and frequently use in as part of a gigging set.

The endpin has been squint since i got it - at a 10 degree angle from the perpendicular.. left to right noit fronmt to back...At first i didn't care but upon closer investigation the bottom of the bass is flexing and the ply has a noticable dent in it... is it worth saving? has anyone had this fixed before? or should i cut my losses and get something else?

Fletcher Lanning · #2 11-19-2009, 04:16 PM

It depends on how much 'cheap' is. I've seen that happen to a lot of the low end instruments. Problems like that are not cheap to fix as they will have to both take the instrument apart fully and then replace the wood; and none of this guarantees that another part of the bass isn't going to give way over the next 6 months.

If it were me, I would save the $700 - $1000 that you would spend on a luthier and put it towards a better bass.

**Matthew Tucker** · #3 11-19-2009, 04:55 PM

Sounds like the bottom block is cracked; it has probably taken a heavy knock with the endpin extended.

its expensive to do the repair properly because you have to remove the top to get at the block, so Flanning is right.

Why not put the bass up for sale as a luthier project for someone who wants to lean how to replace an end-block?

Someone ingenious might be able to find a way to glue it up again by prizing open the bottom of the plate and flooding the crack with glue and somehow clamping tight, but the quality of the repair would be unknown.

forester · #4 11-19-2009, 06:31 PM

if the block is still in one piece, it can be repaired for little cost.

Cody Sisk · #5 11-20-2009, 07:18 AM

How the block is constructed is another factor to consider. I've seen many cheap basses that literally have a 2x4 as the end block..

wayne holmes · #6 11-22-2009, 10:02 AM

Yes, it can be fixed- by making a high saddle and adding another block in front of the factory block. Make the block to match the factory block with end pin holes matching- put the block through the f-hole with a string... well, it gets tricky now, - better pm me for the rest. Before you start you might want to loosen the upper plate at the block location and out to both sides for a few inches(this would not be good to do if it was a carved bass)

this can be done without a high saddle(not really a high saddle but a saddle that fits over the end of the bottom like a high saddle does._
This can be done without another saddle but the extra saddle material will give the facory block and the added block stability. This is not an easy job, but since you are thinking about discarding the bass and since you like the sound of it- it might be worth a try. Of course, you could always take the top off - redo the block and reshape the top. This would be the best, unless you don't want to remove the top which would require the right clamps and knowhow and tools. Good luck. This is really a job for a bass luthier. Short answer to your question would be - yes

hdiddy · #7 11-22-2009, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bruiser1964

I have a cheap second hand plywood chinese 3/4 DB. I love the sound from it and frequently use in as part of a gigging set.

Define cheap. Does this thing have a brand name? It may be just the start of a series of problems. Taking it to a luthier for examination may not hurt, but you might find other things you might not like.

If the bass costs < $1200 new, I'd call it a total loss and sell it as a luthier project.

bruiser1964 · #8 11-22-2009, 10:56 AM

Thanks for all the helpful advice... I have had a closer look and as you will understand am unable to demonstrate my point with photos so bear with my description...
The block appears to be intact although it has separated from the back - at both top and bottom. And although its not free it is moving when you stress the end pin. It is made of unfinished pine aprox 4" x 1/2".
I like Waynes idea and think I might give it a try...
As well as adding another block I thought I could add a brace at top and bottom - and a liberal helping of glue!!
I'm not concerned about the aesthetic of the bass as I said I think these retail new at 400 GBP it does sound lovely through my Full Circle pickup and Platinum Bass Preamp.
Thanks again for your advice - any further tips re fitting a second block appreciated..
Regards
Bruce

wayne holmes · #9 11-22-2009, 11:09 AM

On more thought-you might be better off getting a better bass-maybe you can trade it in and get something for it toward the purchase of a decent bass. This kind of repair can be done and has been done many times. I am not one to toss a bass out the window because it is a cheaply made instrument. Trade it in and let a Luthier put it to some use to someone who may not be able to afford much of a bass.

forester · #10 11-22-2009, 12:52 PM

the repair shouldn't be a big deal, 2hrs +/- over a three day stretch. (youngsters) routinely "pogostick" cello and basses,the resulting damage is what you describe.
have the endpin bore checked, if it was askew from the start, it would have contributed to the failure.
if you find the right repair person, it may not exceed the cost of your full circle pickup.

wayne holmes · #11 11-22-2009, 02:31 PM

since the top is loose, you could get an impression of the factory block by sliding a piece of paper under the top - cut the additional block to fit it. Cut the holes to match -put new block in f-hole-run a 1/4 rod from end pin hole through the hole in the new block which needs to be at an angle in order to slide it over to the original block-let your imagination go wild from here, as to drawing them together- I use a C clamp that I cut down so it will go through the hole(I use two C clamps that are more like I clamps now)A job this crude- what's a few counter sunk screws going to matter--but hide gluing it should be enough since the top and bottom are loose and you can use glue there also--I personally wouldn't use screws to draw the blocks together, but there is no law that says you can't as far as I know.(since you don't care what it looks like) BTW, you should not need the braces at the top and bottom. You will want to check to see if the factory block is tall enough- if it was cut too short, this could be the reason for the sinkage- you can make the new added block the height it should be and this should elliminate the sink once you have it in place and draw the top and bottom together with clamps when you glue them. Good luck- you will need someone to help you unless you have 3 hands- Make sure that the end pin plug holes line up and with the proper taper on the new piece. I am out of here.Let us know how it turns out.

bruiser1964 · #12 11-30-2009, 12:07 PM

Think that'll do it!! ok,any luthiers please look away now! after a lot of delliberation I decided on a plan...

1 - remove everything from the bass
2 - inject glue via the endpin hole - I used wood glue with an angled piece of 5mm x 100mm pipe.
3 - turn the bass over an repeat process
4 - wasn't confident that the glue would be enough so...
5 - Drilled 2 8mm x 40mm holes just in front of the saddle parallel with the bottom - to locate into the block
6 - located 2 8x 40mm pine dowels with liberal amount of glue

Hey presto!! put the bass back together and it seems really solid the endpin functions well and does not move when stessed. Fingers crossed.
Again thanks for all the advice guys.
Bruce