HELP: Problem with tuners on Kay Swingmaster

[thejumpcat]

I have a 1949 Kay Swingmaster and have upgraded the endpin, tailpiece wire and bridge.

Two of the tuning keys have bent thumb buttons (is that what you call them?), and all four are tough to turn.

I'm afraid that if I try to bend the buttons back, I might do more damage than good. Is there a trick to doing this, or should I just leave them bent?

And what type of lubricant for the gears?

If, and that's a big if, I decide to put four new tuners on this old bass, am I hurting or helping the value? Should I go with what's on it -- two keys on a plate -- or should I opt for individual keys? Mortise or not?

The heavy, fine tuning brass type look great, and I'll bet they're a joy to use. Would they be out of place on an old Kay?

Any particular models, dealers you can recommend -- again, IF I decide to go that route? I found this link, but I have no idea what the prices are:

http://www.gallerystrings.com/access...eads/index.htm

If it matters, I play blues and use Pirastro Obligatos.

Thanks!

[bpclark]

I don't think I would try to bend them back unless they are really out of whack.

Originally Posted by thejumpcat

I'm afraid that if I try to bend the buttons back, I might do more damage than good. Is there a trick to doing this, or should I just leave them bent?

Some people use 3-in-1. I was told by a luthier to use graphite. Just work it in over a period of time.

And what type of lubricant for the gears?

Changing the tuners might hurt the value, but probably not too much. Keep the old tuners so they can put back on in the future. I replaced the tuners on my 54 Kay with a set of Rubner's ( 2 on a plate). Stylewise, I think they match the bass and were a definite improvement over the stock tuners. I think they would definitely be easier to install than the individual keys. You could try Lemurmusic.com (search tyrolean).

If, and that's a big if, I decide to put four new tuners on this old bass, am I hurting or helping the value? Should I go with what's on it -- two keys on a plate -- or should I opt for individual keys? Mortise or not?

The heavy, fine tuning brass type look great, and I'll bet they're a joy to use. Would they be out of place on an old Kay?

Any particular models, dealers you can recommend -- again, IF I decide to go that route? I found this link, but I have no idea what the prices are:

[1st Bass]

Maureen Pandos uses/recommends a bicycle chain lubricant--don't recall the name. It doesn't take very much.

[Jake deVilliers]

I like Pedro's Extra Dry Chain Lube even better than my previous favourite, 3-in-1 Electric Motor Oil, but you can't go wrong with either.

If they're really dry, use lots of lube and wipe up after - metal-to-metal grinds away the worm gear.

[CPike]

This stuff works great for lubing gears (nut slots too):

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_sa...lubricant.html

Once every year or two I take apart my machines and clean them with WD40. Then I wipe them dry and let them air dry for an hour or so. I then work the graphite paste into all the metal-to-metal contact points, including where the inside surface of the gear contacts the pegbox cheek. A little dab inside each peghole helps, too. That's my 30,000 mile lube job...

Chris

[forester]

don't leave them bent.. in most cases the shaft is bent and the mechanism orbits instead of rotates..often it will bend just outside the housing for the worm gear..take all the machines off and clean & lube inside and out..if you don't feel confident enough to straighten the shafts..take them to a metalsmith or some craftsperson who can do it cold or heat if required should take about 5 min.you should be able to wait on it. 10 bucks in my book. if it is the actual thumb and finger tab..same solution above..while it is apart clean pegbox, etc. and polish the metal since you have it in your hands and not on your instrument

[thejumpcat]

Thank you all!