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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #1  
Old 10-18-2008, 12:50 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Help tailpiece wire problem!

Okay I'm in the military active duty so it is hard to find time to play. Too often my string bass sits in the corner. I get inspired tonight, I pull it out and the tailpiece wire attaching to around the end pin is broken. I guess the metal was old and brittle. How can I get this wire replaced?
It is a custom thing? I have no idea how to do it.
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  #2  
Old 10-18-2008, 02:07 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NorCal
You can get braided steel wire and a couple crimp-lock ferrules from most hardware stores. I used these on my old bass and just smashed the ferrules with a hammer, using two for extra security.

I ordered a Clef Hi-Tec Tailgut from Upton for my current bass, and like it very much. It was cheap and as easy as tying a carrick knot to install. (instructions are included)
  #3  
Old 10-18-2008, 11:35 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
I looked at the one you mentioned that you use. Does it really just tie onto the bass with Nylon string?
  #4  
Old 10-18-2008, 03:44 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Marysville, WA
synthetic tailpiece hangers...

It's usually not regular nylon rope. That stretches out a lot and doesn't have the breaking strength of other synthetic tailpiece cords. What I used is Amsteel brand 7/64" dyneema cord. If you do a search on dyneema, amsteel, or hi-tec you should find a lot of threads discussing the pros and cons and installation methods for many different materials and brands.

The dyneema is very inexpensive (0.73/ft at my local marine supply) but it is more hassle to adjust string afterlength with the knot that it would be with steel cable and clamps or crimping and it took a few weeks for the tuning to get stable.
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  #5  
Old 10-19-2008, 01:56 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NorCal
The Clef tailgut is most likely something similar to Amsteel I imagine. The cord did not stretch much, if at all, after tuning up, BUT the knot will tighten alot more, therefore giving the same results as the cord stretching bit. Allow for a bit of "stretch" when tying the knot.
  #6  
Old 10-20-2008, 12:12 PM
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Bass Maker/Repairs
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sycamore, Illinois
cable

Use the aircraft cable from the hardware store, and one ferrule will do it. Try to get the length of the tailpiece from the bridge about the same or a little more than the distance from the fingerboard to the bridge. Have them cut a piece for you that's 18 inches long. You probably won't even need that much. Aircraft cable 1/8 thick will do it fine. Or better yet, let your bass luthier do it so that it gets cut the right length. Don't use nylon or single strand wire like steel or copper.
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Last edited by Martin Sheridan : 10-20-2008 at 04:45 PM.
  #7  
Old 10-20-2008, 03:11 PM
Jake deVilliers's Avatar
'Woodworker - Witch Doctor - Luthier'

Owner/The Bass Spa, String Repairman/L & M Vancouver
 
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Location: Crescent Beach, BC
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Hey Martin, did you mean to say "about the same as from the fingerboard to the bridge"?
  #8  
Old 10-20-2008, 04:47 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sycamore, Illinois
ugh

Thank you. Spelling of bridge changed from t.a.i.l.p.i.e.c.e to b.r.i.d.g.e.
I'm going back to sleep again. Wake me later.
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Martin Sheridan
Sycamore, Illinois
martin@martinsheridan.com
www.martinsheridan.com

"Died in Poverty". Last line in the biography of any violin maker.
  #9  
Old 10-20-2008, 06:52 PM
Jake deVilliers's Avatar
'Woodworker - Witch Doctor - Luthier'

Owner/The Bass Spa, String Repairman/L & M Vancouver
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Crescent Beach, BC
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Have a good siesta Martin!
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