Home made caliper

[rgarcia26]

Hi guys I am trying to make a home made caliper and I came out with a simple design.. it can use magnets or springs… if somebody got a simpler design???

[screaminglucy]

a real dial caliper is not that expensive

http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-MTDCF-0...7717192&sr=1-2

[George700DL]

Originally Posted by rgarcia26

Hi guys I am trying to make a home made caliper and I came out with a simple design.. it can use magnets or springs… if somebody got a simpler design???

I do - I used a simple rubber band to return the needle back to "0.0". There are many ways to do this, but the biggest problem I found is: the jaws of the whole thing flexed too much to be accurate. I made the "U" from 3/4" plywood, and that wasn't strong enough. At the time I made my bass I didn't care too much, because I knew that the final scraping will be done based on feel, flexing, etc, and the specific measurements were just a starting point.

But if I wanted to make a similar thickness gauge now, I would probably look at steel frame, or something that flexes the least.

George

[George700DL]

Originally Posted by screaminglucy

a real dial caliper is not that expensive

http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-MTDCF-0...7717192&sr=1-2

A real caliper with jaw capacity of up to 15" or so is gonna cost you a few hundred at least

http://www.internationalviolin.com/i...x?ItemCode=T28

George

[rgarcia26]

Originally Posted by screaminglucy

a real dial caliper is not that expensive

http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-MTDCF-0...7717192&sr=1-2

Correct and I do own two but this one is a Deep throat one, its for a DB top plate… they run for 300+

[rgarcia26]

Originally Posted by George700DL

A real caliper with jaw capacity of up to 15" or so is gonna cost you a few hundred at least

http://www.internationalviolin.com/i...x?ItemCode=T28

George

Correct

[rgarcia26]

Originally Posted by George700DL

I do - I used a simple rubber band to return the needle back to "0.0". There are many ways to do this, but the biggest problem I found is: the jaws of the whole thing flexed too much to be accurate. I made the "U" from 3/4" plywood, and that wasn't strong enough. At the time I made my bass I didn't care too much, because I knew that the final scraping will be done based on feel, flexing, etc, and the specific measurements were just a starting point.

But if I wanted to make a similar thickness gauge now, I would probably look at steel frame, or something that flexes the least.

George

What about a frame like this one that I made for a couple of home made deep C clamps

[screaminglucy]

Originally Posted by George700DL

A real caliper with jaw capacity of up to 15" or so is gonna cost you a few hundred at least

http://www.internationalviolin.com/i...x?ItemCode=T28

George

ah...now i see

[tstone]

I don't think the string-and-pulley concept will work well. Too much slop and flexibility. You're trying to measure thousandths of an inch.

If I were building one, I would start with a cheap dial indicator and mount it on a sturdy wood frame like the one in rgarcia26's post.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-...cator-623.html

[derft]

Like this. Hope it uploaded.

[rgarcia26]

Originally Posted by tstone

I don't think the string-and-pulley concept will work well. Too much slop and flexibility. You're trying to measure thousandths of an inch.

If I were building one, I would start with a cheap dial indicator and mount it on a sturdy wood frame like the one in rgarcia26's post.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-...cator-623.html

That's great I was looking for one I couldn't find anything bellow $100

[rgarcia26]

Originally Posted by derft

Like this. Hope it uploaded.

Exactly like that

[RCWilliams]

watch the sales at Harbor freight and you can pick up a digital head with a full inch of opeing so it is easy to slip over the edge of the plate. they are also bi lingual metric and sae

[tstone]

That looks terrific. The only thing I might change would be to orient the dial indicator so that when you are holding the frame by the middle of the 'C' frame. the dial is facing you.

[Matthew Tucker]

If I was to make another one (I probably will) I'd use one of these http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Digital-Probe...item1e6181e635

and make sure the frame is light and stiff.

The problem with the dial indicators is that the measurement you want is given on the SMALL dial. On a bass you're only going to need the closest mm or .5mm.

[tstone]

I think the analog jobs would be workable, but if you wanted digital, Harbor Freight has those for cheaps too -- though not as cheap as the mechanical ones.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-...tor-93295.html

[rgarcia26]

Originally Posted by Matthew Tucker

If I was to make another one (I probably will) I'd use one of these http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Digital-Probe...item1e6181e635

and make sure the frame is light and stiff.

The problem with the dial indicators is that the measurement you want is given on the SMALL dial. On a bass you're only going to need the closest mm or .5mm.

Correct, well Mat you are pretty familiar with the project that I am working right now… I think I need one of this for the Sound post patch…

[rgarcia26]

Originally Posted by tstone

I think the analog jobs would be workable, but if you wanted digital, Harbor Freight has those for cheaps too -- though not as cheap as the mechanical ones.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-...tor-93295.html

That is not bad at all, I just need to figured out the best way to attach it to a C clamp style frame

[rgarcia26]

Originally Posted by derft

Like this. Hope it uploaded.

That's MDF right? how it is work?

[derft]

Yes it is MDF. Works fine. I made it for Mandolin tops and backs. Its not deep enough for a bass.