how do i fit new finger board on double bass

tuttimix · #1 11-26-2008, 03:29 PM

Greetings from Denmark

I have recently bought an old bass, and i would like to replace the fingerboard with a new ebony fingerboard..which i have.

I only have 3 problems:
1.How do i remove the old fingerboard?
2.How do i get the new fingerboard in the right shape for pizzicato
3.How can i glue on the new fingerboard?

I hope for help and thank you in advance.

Allan

arnoldschnitzer · #2 11-26-2008, 06:05 PM

Are you an expert woodworker with a good set of hand tools? If so, the luthiers here (myself included) will happily give you advice. If not, take the bass to a good luthier and have them do the job for you.

tuttimix · #3 11-27-2008, 09:50 AM

Arnold, Thank you for quick reply.

No im not Expert Woodworker..I hope you will help me anyway though.

I work in a music store and have access to a lot of old tools(dont know if there right or not)..we had a workshop for wood instruments in the 1930`s..now only brass and woodwind.
And also i get the materials (strings, ebony, bridges etc.) very cheap.
So if somethings go wrong ONLY I am to blame, and it wouldent be the end of the world for me

+ i gave next to noyhing for the bass ..this is an experiment.

Best Regards
allan

arnoldschnitzer · #4 11-28-2008, 07:37 AM

First get the old fingerboard off. If it's loose, work it off with a knife. If not, plane it off. Then get all the glue off with hot water and a scraper. Then check back in here.

Paul Warburton · #5 11-28-2008, 07:45 AM

Yeah, easy for you to say Arnold.

tuttimix · #6 11-28-2008, 09:43 AM

im very gratefull for the help im recieving from Arnold.
Please dont reply if this is all you got to say.
Everything is possible
cheers Allan.

arnoldschnitzer · #7 11-29-2008, 12:14 PM

Once all the glue is removed you must make both the surface of the neck and the surface of the fingerboard perfectly flat. For this use a razor-sharp block plane and a slightly convex scraper. You will probably find that the neck has a slight bow along its length. A tiny bit is ok but if it's serious you will need to heat and straighten it.

tuttimix · #8 11-29-2008, 12:45 PM

when i put the new fingerboard on the neck where it should be, the bow is pretty big. i have to clamp down very hard, to get them in allignment.
can you please tell me the right way to heat the neck, so i can get it straight? im thinking something like wrapping towels around the fingerboard and pour boiling water on them and then some vita vrap to contain the heat, then clamp it straight and dry it out.
Is this to rough and maybe idiot? i need directions

arnoldschnitzer · #9 11-29-2008, 05:06 PM

You need to get the neck very hot yet keep the wood from drying out and splitting. You could use a heat gun and keep wetting the surface. Then you will need to have a sytem all prepared to clamp it overnight with an overbend in the opposite direction. As soon as the neck is hot, you clamp it up and go away for a day. It will never come out perfect, so you will need to true up the neck prior to fitting and gluing the fingerboard. Now would be a good time to buy and learn about hide glue.

Gearhead43 · #10 11-29-2008, 06:47 PM

Excellent info here, many thanks to Arnold for sharing these techniques with us.

Even if I never attempt this myself in the future, it is very cool to have an understanding of how it is done.

Paul Warburton · #11 11-29-2008, 06:56 PM

Yeah...And, talk about unselfish.

arnoldschnitzer · #12 11-30-2008, 09:07 AM

Hey, it would be cool if other experienced bass repairers would chime in with some tips here.

tuttimix · #13 11-30-2008, 09:25 AM

GreaT! I understand perfectly what it is i must do and this is possible for me to do/try at least..ok i think i saw a link in here where i can learn about the glue. Thank you very much i will write you back as soon as this is done...may take a little while

ctregan · #14 11-30-2008, 09:48 AM

I am not an "experienced luthier" but have done this twice before on a bass and once on a cello.

I found it can be difficult to keep the fingerboard from sliding around when its wet with glue and the clamps are applying pressure. Be prepared, you may need clamps going horizontal too too keep the board in place.

Also, use blocks or pads to protect the wood from clamp marks.

Good luck!

tuttimix · #15 11-30-2008, 10:15 AM

hey thanks ctregan this was helpfull, i will definately think all things through to prevent sliding. when you glued your fingerboards, were they finished and in perfect size? or did you shape it afterwards?

Paul Warburton · #16 11-30-2008, 10:22 AM

And, the plot thickens.

ctregan · #17 11-30-2008, 10:24 AM

Old boards coming loose, took them off, then glued them back down.

Martin Sheridan · #18 11-30-2008, 10:28 AM

Arnold is correct in everything he says, but if you have access to someone with a joiner it can be done a little easier.

The fingerboard needs to be 10mm or a little less on the sides. It can be run over a joiner to bring it down to this dimension. Then take a cut of each side, one at a time, to bring it down to about the right width. You can finish it with the block plane once it's on.

The last time I took one of mine to my friend who has a joiner he forgot and only took wood off one side which left the piece 10mm on one side and about 17 on the other, so I had to completely reshape the board.

draftsmann · #19 11-30-2008, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctregan

I am not an "experienced luthier" but have done this twice before on a bass and once on a cello.

I found it can be difficult to keep the fingerboard from sliding around when its wet with glue and the clamps are applying pressure. Be prepared, you may need clamps going horizontal too too keep the board in place.

I am far from an "experienced luthier" too; but when I glued the fingerboard on the Chinese "parts bass" I'm currently assembling I used two steel pins inserted in holes drilled in the neck to locate the fingerboard and stop it sliding around. I don't know if it's a textbook technique but I can't see it causing any problems and it worked very well.

Adrian

forester · #20 11-30-2008, 11:47 AM

+1 on the sizing first. also i find it helps to leave or temporarily install a nut and butt the FB against it.. i have noticed there is a point where the glue becomes less viscous and tends to stick rather than squirm...that's when the flag drops. no big deal if you don't get it on with the first attempt..that is what hide glue is all about.

customary non-luthier disclaimer applies: