how to remove top

[Mike Arnopol]

I'm thinking of trying to remove the top on my old Roth hybrid bass. The top needs to come off to patch cracks around the E string F hole. I'm pretty handy as far as techinical stuff, but I've always been petrified to work on my basses (except for changing soundposts) Dave Gage says I need what he calls a "paisley patch) to strengthen the area around the f-hole. This I'll leave to a repairman. It seems that the major expense in this job is removing the top. It's been removed and reglued by a top repairman since I've had it, so I know that there's no weird glue. I know it's an exercise in patience and caution. I know to start at blocks and corners first and work SLOWLY. Is it a matter of using a hot knife worked in slowly to dissolve glue, or is steam necessary? What kind of thin knife? Any suggestions would be great.

[Ed Fuqua]

I kind of remember seeing a youtube vid of maybe the guys at Upton taking a top off?

[Eric Hochberg]

Check this out about 5 minutes in...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDGphZaQoSw

I'd like to come by when you do this, Mike.

[Ed Fuqua]

Originally Posted by Eric Hochberg

I'd like to come by when you do this, Mike.

With beer and popcorn?

[Paul Warburton]

W/ 4 10 mgs....Valium.

[Gord_oh]

its a bit tricky, but youll get the hang of it.
practice makes perfect.

[Mike Arnopol]

Oh, I'll be taking Valium allright

[Mark Carlsen]

Hey Mike,
I've been in biz for 14 years and every time I have to pop a top it's a challenge..... You need the right tools like very thin palette knifes that are flexible yet strong, a good light system for inside the bass , same for soundpost work, a mirror, and some wedges or shims.
The main thing is patience and be ready to re-glue chips and also getting the end blocks can be tough unless you have the right tools for just those. A few years back Nick Lloyd showed me a technique using a cork backed block of wood, a hammer and a bull nosed chisel and he was able to tap a top off pretty clean. Nick also made a long spatula tool just for loosening the hard to reach neck block.
Any ways good luck and you might want to visit the Traeger book before you start. It has some good tips...

[Sam Sherry]

My sister, the luthier, told me a story of the late, great Jacques Francais adjusting the curve of a fine, old French masterwork bow.

He snapped it.

He walked out to the front and said, "The bow is broken. Collect the insurance."

= = =

I worked building and fixing guitars for a couple of years. I quit because of the stress. I've worked as a lawyer for eighteen years now -- less stress by far.

[Jake deVilliers]

Originally Posted by Gord_oh

its a bit tricky, but youll get the hang of it.
practice makes perfect.

Man, if you can't pop those things with just one hand...

[uprightben]

I've only removed one bass top and a few fiddle tops, and the bass top was in such bad shape that we've decided to replace it, but I've got to say it is quite a bitch. Glueing the top back on is no picknick either. If you feel up to the task for either one of those operations, why not make the cleat too? It's the easiest part of the prosess, and will save you the trouble of trying to transport the bass without knocking off any splinters still stuck to the ribs or breaking something. Also, if you were my customer, I would rather advise you than have you do a job halfway, creating more work for me to finish it and then expect to pay me a fraction of the normal fee for the job.

[Matthew Tucker]

Some tops want to come off and some don't. Sometimes you don't even need to use any water/steam. Often you do though. The top block is usually the hardest bit and boy can that be glued tightly! I usually go around the edges looking for a weak spot, crack, some entry point and work my way to the nearest C block. Or just place a knife across the point of the block at the rib/top joint and tap gently to start things off. Need several knives and spatulas and wooden wedges to hold the crack open once you've started. And there will always be some edge repairs to do afterwards. That adds to the cost of an otherwise simple top-off repair.

[Cody Sisk]

Picture of the crack? Sometimes f-hole cracks can be patched through the f-hole..

[Mike Arnopol]

Multiple cracks that have been repaired through the f-hole. Definitely needs a "paisley" patch. Don't know if it was made this way. but the top is VERY thin. The bass sounds fabulous, though. All of the Patricia Barber cd's were recorded on it. I was playing opposite John Patticucci and he came up to me to see what bass I was playing because he dug the sound so much. He couldn't believe it when he saw it. He did after he played it.

[forester]

no pro. here, but i have had some success saving the top block for last...sometimes you get lucky and it just pops since there is a little up pressure from the wedged opened lower section...if not, i try to work from about the C- bouts going straight in between the top and the block with a long thin shopmade stainless (shiv ?). an alternative is to slide the tool under the top, side to side so a foot or so extends over each side of the ribs and "walk" it in once a corner of the block and top are found. i know this sounds like the hard way but i feel better working with the grain on the top and not across it.
two people are good thing,and less trying on the patience,if it takes all day,big deal.
good luck,i plan the same for my relic in a month or so.

normal disclaimer:

[Mike Arnopol]

Does it help to heat the palette knife a bit to help melt the glue?

[Matthew Tucker]

yes but its hard to keep it hot.

Moisture and patience is all you really need, but you need both.

ONE day I will make a pallette knife attachment for my small soldering iron. I think that would be good!

[Jazzdogg]

How large would the blade have to be, Mr. Tucker?

Might a burn-in knife [below] be at all useful, or is its blade too small?

http://products.mmnewman.com/viewite...burn-in-knife?

OR

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...n%2Din%20knife

[ctregan]

At times, I have used a hose, attached to pot of boiling water to make a "steam wand". This could help on some of the block areas.

Cautionary note: the steam is hot and can burn your skin. Also, the hose spews out a lot of moisture; if you are not careful, it can loosen the linings, and possibly ribs, at the same time.

[Eric Rene Roy]

Originally Posted by ctregan

At times, I have used a hose, attached to pot of boiling water to make a "steam wand".

Although I appreciate your MacGyverness, you can pick these up too: #1 #2