Individual String Action

Hustich · #1 08-23-2009, 11:37 AM

Hello all, I recently got a new bridge for my bass, as the first one was a bit taller. I leveled it down and shaped the curve as the previous bridge, but the problem is that I deepened the G string groove too much, and now the G string action is too low compared to the others.

Is there any way I could fix it? Should I fill it with something, or place a bit of rubber on the groove? I really don't want to go through the bridge-modelling again, also, a luthier is not an option for me, as there aren't any where I live.

Also, a related question, do the groove holes impact the sound? As in, is there a major difference between a string that is just supported by the groove, and a string that is fully within the groove (bridge curve is above the string).

Thanks

reedo35 · #2 08-23-2009, 12:34 PM

Okay, here is a quick fix very similar to the quick fix for the nut string slots. Take the sawdust from when you cut the bridge before, (Should be a rather fine dust), pack it into the string slot, add a drop of superglue, and voila! Sand down the rough edge and you're ready to try again! I am assuming you have a needle file for the string slots, right?

reedo35 · #3 08-23-2009, 12:42 PM

Also Your string should lie in the groove with about 1/2 to 3/4 of it sticking out. If the groove is too deep, it could pinch the string and inhibit vibration. Too shallow, and your string could pop off.

Bijoux · #4 08-23-2009, 12:53 PM

another solution, and well, I know some people may frown upon this, but you can also add two thin strips of maple under the bridge feet. then you can bring down the other 3 strings to match the G string. little bit of a hobo solution, but it works. make sure the maple is thin enough to adjust to the curvature of the belly.

reedo35 · #5 08-23-2009, 12:59 PM

Hmm yes, that is another viable solution, but a little bit trickier since you have to adjust the contact of the bridge feet as well.

Hustich · #6 08-23-2009, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reedo35

Okay, here is a quick fix very similar to the quick fix for the nut string slots. Take the sawdust from when you cut the bridge before, (Should be a rather fine dust), pack it into the string slot, add a drop of superglue, and voila! Sand down the rough edge and you're ready to try again! I am assuming you have a needle file for the string slots, right?

Thanks for the reply, but unfortunately, I don't have the sawdust anymore. I could try sanding the bridge on the sides for some, though, if it's okay. Also, yes, I have a needle file.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bijoux

another solution, and well, I know some people may frown upon this, but you can also add two thin strips of maple under the bridge feet. then you can bring down the other 3 strings to match the G string. little bit of a hobo solution, but it works. make sure the maple is thin enough to adjust to the curvature of the belly.

Thanks for your input, although your solution seems practical, it's also a bit tricky, I'd only modify the bridge itself.

reedo35 · #7 08-23-2009, 01:25 PM

You don't need much, just enough to fill the slot.

CPike · #8 08-23-2009, 07:34 PM

You could get a luthier to install adjusters, then you can bring down the other strings instead of bringing up the G...

Chris

LilRay · #9 08-23-2009, 07:41 PM

Would Graphite not work? How about a strip of Carbon Fiber? I'm guessing here and I don't have a clue but something has to be out there.

God Bless, Ray

sjd007 · #10 08-23-2009, 09:19 PM

My bridge came (from the factory) too low with some G string buzz. I took the opportunity to put in (drilled) adjusters which work well for me. Bit of a fiddle and you need the right gear (mitre saw, drill press, 1/4" thread tap) but worth the effort and won't crack out of the groove like superglue may. Hey, try the superglue first and if it works then saves you a lot of hassle, but if not then adjusters will save you from buying another bridge and starting again.

robobass · #11 08-24-2009, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reedo35

Okay, here is a quick fix very similar to the quick fix for the nut string slots. Take the sawdust from when you cut the bridge before, (Should be a rather fine dust), pack it into the string slot, add a drop of superglue, and voila! Sand down the rough edge and you're ready to try again! I am assuming you have a needle file for the string slots, right?

I don't like this. It will just break out in no time. When I have had this problem, I cut a right angle notch into the bridge and glue in a grain matched insert. Sand, reshape, and you have a permanent fix. You need to have some maple lying around, of course, to do this. Perhaps from your old bridge?

William Hoffman · #12 08-25-2009, 04:22 AM

i would also be a little concerned that the sawdust-superglue mix will not transmit vibration like maple. having that problem in such a critical place -- the G string bridge groove -- i would almost rather refit a bridge. the next best solution is, in my opinion, to install bridge adjusters so you can keep it all solid wood and in one piece. if not that, then do the "implant" like robobass says... good luck!

reedo35 · #13 08-25-2009, 10:39 AM

Remember, I didn't say mine was the BEST fix, just the quickest and easiest. Considering what the OP said, there is no Nearby luthier, so this would be a DIY thing. And I have no idea how much woodworking experience he has.
So, Let's compare the solutions..

1. Superglue and Sawdust- Time: 5 Minutes. Tools- Superglue, sawdust, sandpaper and needle file. Also it is not necessary to remove the bridge. If you mess it up, you can try again.

2. Maple Shims- Time- An hour if you're lucky. Tools: Sandpaper, Knives, Glue. Find Maple shims.Remove Bridge. Sand or cut the shims down to fit the Bridge feet. Reshape bridge feet. Hopefully they fit,and bring the bridge to the exact height you want.

3. Install Adjusters- Time: At Least an Hour if you know what you're doing.Tools: mitre saw, drill press, 1/4" thread tap, Sandpaper, Adjusters. Cut the Bridge feet, Off, Drill The Holes
attach Adjusters,make sure they fit flush and the holes are not too tight, or the feet will crack. No Second Chances here, when the feet are cut, they're cut.

Notch insert- Time: At least an Hour.Tools:Extra wood, Saw, Sandpaper, glue, needle file. Remove the Bridge, Cut a wedge shape where the string slot is.Cut a wedge from your extra wood and make sure it fits exactly in the slot you just cut. Glue it in, Sand it down, refile the slot.

And for the record, I have seen all of these methods done, as well as done most of them personally.All of them are viable solutions. Also, I have never had a superglue filler fall out or crack away,or significantly change the tone of the bass.

Bijoux · #14 08-25-2009, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reedo35

2. Maple Shims- Time- An hour if you're lucky. Tools: Sandpaper, Knives, Glue. Find Maple shims.Remove Bridge. Sand or cut the shims down to fit the Bridge feet. Reshape bridge feet. Hopefully they fit,and bring the bridge to the exact height you want..

I suggested this one, and in fact it's a lot easier than you think. first of all it doesn't have to be maple. you can find wood cut in various small sizes at the local craft store. they will be thin enough that you don't have to reshape anything. I know a reputable luthier that uses as many layers as he needs to adjust height. of course we are talking 1, 2, and maybe 3mm at most I think. I used to do that back when I used solid bridges. I can't say that they affected the sound at all.

William Hoffman · #15 08-27-2009, 04:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reedo35

...Also, I have never had a superglue filler fall out or crack away,or significantly change the tone of the bass.

It may work as a quick fix, and it really is the quickest fix anyone has mentioned here. In that repect, it's the winner.

For me it's just difficult to imagine that superglue -- with any amount of sawdust mixed in -- is going to let your G string sound like it is resting on a groove cut in the wood of the bridge.

Nothing against superglue, I love the stuff and use it all the time...

Paul Warburton · #16 08-27-2009, 06:49 AM

I just stumbled in here. If I was a luthier, I'd be on the floor laughing my ** off.

Better stumble on out.......

**Matthew Tucker** · #17 08-27-2009, 05:57 PM

Restoring a bridge slot is a luthier 101 job; there are a number of tricks to keep bridges going depending on what you want to achieve. It would be a waste of a good bridge to chuck it out just because the G slot is too low.

I agree with Reedo's DIY approach, except that the notch insert certainly doesn't take an hour to fit, and is the best solution because it restores the bridge properly. You don't even strictly have to use maple, or match the grain, as long as it is well shaped and glued in. But if the whole of the bridge top needs adjustment then, yes, maple shims or adjusters will be needed.

I don't think the superglue fix would affect the tone appreciably, but I also don't think it would be as durable.

Good luck

bonaventura · #18 08-28-2009, 03:49 AM

[LOUD NOISE of someone stumbling in]

has anyone here seen Paul? superglue is strong stuff! oops!

[CRASH] [stumbling out]