Kay warping and bridge questions??

[JerryW]

My 1950 Kay was warped around the F holes when I got it, but I'm wondering how common this is? The edge of the F hole closest to the middle is about 1/4 inch lower than the outside edge of the F hole opening. It came with steel orchestra strings on it and I'm changing it to Innovation Silver Slaps and an adjustable bridge. Anything to be concerned about here with the top warping?

The bridge that came on it has adjustable feet. I'm thinking of trying to modify it and adding adjusters (in addition to buying an adjustable bridge), but is there any market for used bridges like this if I try to sell or trade it?

[Eric Hochberg]

Warping or sinking like you describe is pretty common with older basses. I doubt what you describe happened quickly but over the 60 years it's been around. Keep an eye on it, but it sounds like the top is fairly stable to me unless this happened all of a sudden. I assume you're having a pro fit your bridges and add adjusters. If your old bridge is in good shape and fits the bass, why change it out?

[JerryW]

The only reason for changing the bridge is to get the strings higher. It was set up for orchestra playing, and the strings are to low for the rockabilly and bluegrass I want to play. I'd also like to get more volume from it. If I'm going in the wrong direction here, please let me know. The upright is new to me. Thanks.

[Eric Hochberg]

With adjusters, you should be able to raise the strings higher than they are now.

[Paul Warburton]

Originally Posted by JerryW

The bridge that came on it has adjustable feet. I'm thinking of trying to modify it and adding adjusters (in addition to buying an adjustable bridge), but is there any market for used bridges like this if I try to sell or trade it?

Is this the bridge type that's on the bass? If so, you may not waste your time trying to add adusters. IME, not enough meat left on the legs to add them. Also it may tend to wobble.

[Eric Hochberg]

^^^Never seen that before, what do the feet do?

[Paul Warburton]

Hard to see in that pic but it's whacha' call a "self adjusting bridge". There's a "ball and socket" kinda thing happening down towards the feet so that you don't have to fit the feet to the arching of the plate. It's all part of the wood....no other parts or anything. Tried one on a bass once and it worked okay but decided to add the height adjusters and it got pretty shakey. I'm only guessing that this is what the OP is talking about. It adds up to two joints in the legs and the bridge kept either riding up North or down South.

[JerryW]

Paul,

That's it exactly, and after I looked at it better I agree with you, it's not worth trying to add adjusters to. It's just that I'm always looking to make something I need out of something I don't. I think I'll just order an adjustable bridge and try to fit it myself. I ordered the book by Chuck Traeger about the set up and repair of double basses, so I'm going to read that before I do anything. Thanks for your input.

[Paul Warburton]

Originally Posted by JerryW

Paul,

That's it exactly.

Am I good er what?
That'll go in my TB "you're right" list with the other two. Doan wanna talk about my TB "you're wrong" list.

[George700DL]

Originally Posted by JerryW

I think I'll just order an adjustable bridge and try to fit it myself.

Check out my thread from a few days back about aluminum adjusters. The consensus among luthiers seems to be: bridges sold with pre-installed adjusters are a pain to work with. It's much easier to fit the feet on a solid bridge first, then cut the legs and install the adjusters.

If you don't feel like going through that whole process, I think prices for having it done professionally are pretty reasonable.

I ordered the book by Chuck Traeger about the set up and repair of double basses, so I'm going to read that before I do anything. Thanks for your input.

Good move - I enjoy reading that book very much. He has a very detailed chapter on installing adjusters.

[Doug D]

it also might be worth sticking an inspection mirror in through the f-holes and seeing if the bass bar is fully intact. especially each end. very often when a bass comes in with a deformed top, I find the bass bar has come loose at one end....

and/or take it to a luthier.

[waltwallace]

re: adjusters on a "self adjusting bridge"...
I got height adjusters installed a bridge like this at David Gage's shop in nyc. They put them in upside down (so you turn the adjusters the opposite direction) to deal with the limited amount of wood if installed the normal way. Worked out fine on my bass.

I bought a bridge with adjusters from Gollihur for another bass. It's quite a bit of work to get shape and fit it. I happened to see another place where you can an adjustable bass bridge partially shaped and adjusted.
http://store.gotofmi.com/adupbabr.html
I might have gone that route if I had known about it to save time & effort. Anyone tried one of those?

[fdeck]

Originally Posted by Doug D

it also might be worth sticking an inspection mirror in through the f-holes and seeing if the bass bar is fully intact. especially each end. very often when a bass comes in with a deformed top, I find the bass bar has come loose at one end....

and/or take it to a luthier.

Yup. That was the situation with my Kay. Loose bass bar at both ends, and missing sound post. After clearing up those matters, the top has not sunken any further in years.

[gprigge]

I have the same warped F holes on my 1947 Kay. I see it as character, not a problem.

"I'm always looking to make something I need out of something I don't." That's a classic.

[fdeck]

Agreed. On a related thread that I started, I got some advice on how to re-arch the plate, but I decided that I didn't want to take my bass out of commission at the time. Now that it's my spare bass, I don't have the motivation.