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10-25-2010, 08:49 PM
| | | | laborie endpin Since the eggpin is no longer in production i've been toying a lot with the idea of getting a laborie pin. I finally decided to do it. I'm about 6 1. does anyone have any suggestions or things i should look into before i actually do this?
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10-25-2010, 08:57 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Baltimore | | | I plan on having my bass drilled as well. Every source I've spoken with has advised trying a number of different angles and endpin lengths so you'll know what you know. You can have the endpin at any number of different angles although I believe straight back at about 45-55 degrees is the most standard. | 
10-25-2010, 09:12 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Chicago | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Hamilton Every source I've spoken with has advised trying a number of different angles and endpin lengths so you'll know what you know. You can have the endpin at any number of different angles although I believe straight back at about 45-55 degrees is the most standard. |
+1 I suggest trying to get a hold of an eggpin before drilling, maybe someone on TB would lend you one. Then you can experiment and really figure the angle for your bass and you. The length can be fixed to preference after drilling, just take off a little at a time until you hit the sweet spot. My Lab pin is straight back at around 45º and I sometimes think that a bit of side angle might have been nice. | 
10-25-2010, 09:55 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Houston | | | Mine is drilled 44 degrees with 8 degrees drilled to the side. i would reccomend drilling at a small angle to the side. they are often drilled around 8 - 12 degrees to the side. if you can't get a hold of an eggpin to experiment with different angles, lengths, etc, then at least try to play on a bass that is already drilled and see what you like. i've never heard of anyone regretting that they drilled their bass - everyone i know who has a the laborie pin loves it. | 
10-26-2010, 07:32 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: NYC | | | I love my Laborie endpin. I just have it drilled in the center not off center. I know Rufus used the egg pin to find the best off center position. That is a little much for me. You have to get used to playing it. Your body has to become used to it. I think drilling in the center is the best compromise. I'm happy with it in the center. From what I heard (from a real reliable source) Laborie just picked the number of 45 degrees, it sounded good. I wouldn't get too caught up in the specific degree of the angle. As for the length of the endpin, its trial and error. Just cut a little off at a time. My first one I cut too short. | 
10-26-2010, 07:39 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Houston, TX | | Quote:
Originally Posted by MDEbass Mine is drilled 44 degrees with 8 degrees drilled to the side. i would reccomend drilling at a small angle to the side. they are often drilled around 8 - 12 degrees to the side. if you can't get a hold of an eggpin to experiment with different angles, lengths, etc, then at least try to play on a bass that is already drilled and see what you like. i've never heard of anyone regretting that they drilled their bass - everyone i know who has a the laborie pin loves it. | I know several people that were not happy with their hole. Occasionally it causes new wolf tones to appear and can drastically change the nature of the bass. Usually the change is a net positive, but you can't say it will always be the right thing for the bass. It also has the potential to do serious damage if the end block is too small or fragile.
Fortunately, it's a very easy procedure to re-seal a Laborie hole. I've also seen basses that sounded better using a metal pin but with the open hole.
And yes, 45 degrees back is standard. If you are tall, an 8 or 10 degree tilt toward the G string is common. | 
10-26-2010, 08:24 AM
| | Registered User owner KCNC Production and Design | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Merriam Kansas (Kansas City) | | | there are ways to do this that don't make swiss cheese out of your lower block | 
10-26-2010, 09:38 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Kansas City area | | Quote:
Originally Posted by RCWilliams there are ways to do this that don't make swiss cheese out of your lower block | http://www.kcstrings.com/bass-endpins.html
I use a contentional endpin and have no experience with this but it looks like a good solution.
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10-26-2010, 11:07 AM
| | | | I'm about 6 ft so I think a little bit of a tilt might be in my best interest. I've been looking at a lot of different players set ups and i think a tilt to the side is what I'm really going for. Thanks for all the input. | 
10-26-2010, 03:03 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2005 Location: Dallas, TX | | | I'm a standard endpin user - nothing bent, off center or exotic materials - I tried an EGG pin about 14 yrs ago and thought it was just the most bizarre-feeling contraption I'd ever experienced on a bass. That said, I'm not here to preach, (to each his/her own), however I just had an idea. How practical would it be to create and install a ball-and-socket style endpin device in the same region of the tail block as the Laborie hole is drilled, with perhaps a couple of very strong set screws to hold it in place? This would give the player many options for the X and Y angles.
cdp | 
10-26-2010, 04:47 PM
|  | 'Woodworker - Witch Doctor - Luthier' Owner/The Bass Spa, String Repairman/L & M Vancouver | | Join Date: May 2006 Location: Crescent Beach, BC | | Quote:
Originally Posted by CPike I'm a standard endpin user - nothing bent, off center or exotic materials - I tried an EGG pin about 14 yrs ago and thought it was just the most bizarre-feeling contraption I'd ever experienced on a bass. That said, I'm not here to preach, (to each his/her own), however I just had an idea. How practical would it be to create and install a ball-and-socket style endpin device in the same region of the tail block as the Laborie hole is drilled, with perhaps a couple of very strong set screws to hold it in place? This would give the player many options for the X and Y angles.
cdp | Greg mentioned a similar device above. Look here: http://www.kcstrings.com/bass-endpins.html#pegoleg | 
10-26-2010, 05:05 PM
|  | 'Woodworker - Witch Doctor - Luthier' Owner/The Bass Spa, String Repairman/L & M Vancouver | | Join Date: May 2006 Location: Crescent Beach, BC | | Just as a general FYI - according to Laborie's instructions as found here http://www.slavapub.net/pdf/LaborieEndpininstr.pdf, the hole needs to be exactly 44 degrees from the rib. | 
10-26-2010, 06:47 PM
|  | Supporting Member Luthier: Bresque Basses, rep: Paulin EUB | | Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Sydney, Australia | | Quote:
Originally Posted by CPike How practical would it be to create and install a ball-and-socket style endpin device in the same region of the tail block as the Laborie hole is drilled, with perhaps a couple of very strong set screws to hold it in place? This would give the player many options for the X and Y angles. | Stahlhammer make something adjustable in two directions and I reckon by rotating the plug you'd have a bunch of options. http://www.vivaceviolin.com/pp/Acces.../Bass/857.html | 
10-26-2010, 09:04 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2005 Location: Dallas, TX | | The Stahlhammer is close to what I'm imagining. This is more like it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_joint
Now picture a couple of heavy duty set screws torqued nice 'n' tight to hold it in place once you've found the optimum position...
cdp
Last edited by CPike : 10-26-2010 at 09:15 PM.
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10-27-2010, 07:19 AM
| | Registered User Private Inventor - Bass Capos | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Cologne/Göttingen, Germany | | Quote:
Originally Posted by CPike The Stahlhammer is close to what I'm imagining. This is more like it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_joint
Now picture a couple of heavy duty set screws torqued nice 'n' tight to hold it in place once you've found the optimum position...
cdp | I think you're onto something. The downside of designs mentioned here is a lack of adjustability. For me, I might have to deal with a stool which is too high one night, and on some other occasion decide to stand. in either case, the angle and height I prefer when sitting on my own stool wouldn't work. It seems especially impractical to have a very steep back angle which you can't change. It'd be nice when sitting on a low stool, but what do you do if you want to stand? The KC idea seems to offer a workaround, though. You could drill two or even three holes in that added block at different angles, and carry a few different pins. I'd prefer that to an Eggpin, but I think something better is still to come.
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10-27-2010, 02:06 PM
| | Registered User owner KCNC Production and Design | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Merriam Kansas (Kansas City) | | | I looked in to the ball joint thing and one problem is to make it in expensive enough and light enough and strong enough for bass players to go for it. that's why I came up with the tilt block and the Seaton Saddle, (I know it's not a saddle but it sounded so good.)
the key is it doesn't have top be adjustable once you figure out your angle it pretty much stays there. or if you are a true, through and through Rabath/Laborie person, it's 44 degrees or nothing | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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