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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #1  
Old 11-08-2012, 06:43 AM
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Looking for a qualified luthier in Bucks, PA

Hi All, I'm a newbie here. I've been an electric player for years and started dabbling with DB a few years back. Anyway, I recently purchased a 1960's vintage Kay M1 that needs some work done, specifically the bass bar has become partially separated from the bass top causing the top to start sagging. I'd like to get an idea of how much something like that might cost to repair (I have been doing some homework prowling around the forum...) and I am looking for a qualified luthier in Bucks County PA or New Jersey area. I'd also like to have the bridge replaced (assuming the repairs can be made reasonably) and pro setup. Can anyone recommend someone?

Thanks!!!
  #2  
Old 11-08-2012, 09:21 AM
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Ask Ken Smith (Perkasie, PA) at www.smithbassforums.com. He may know someone...
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  #3  
Old 11-08-2012, 09:33 AM
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Jack Hill is in New Jersey, but not that far from you:

www.jdhillmusic.com
  #4  
Old 11-08-2012, 09:39 AM
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http://www.shankstrings.com/home.html
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  #5  
Old 11-08-2012, 11:17 AM
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+1 on Shank. He's great.

Last edited by Blaine : 11-08-2012 at 11:18 AM. Reason: spelling
  #6  
Old 11-08-2012, 04:02 PM
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Hey thanks guys...I found a few online, including Jack Hill, and I saw Shank (he's in Hersey and that's a bit of a hike.) Bucks County Music said they couldn't even look at it until late next week, and then they might have it for a while.

Bil Mitchell's Guitar Parlor in Reigelsville took it on for me. He makes beautiful acoustic guitars and his partner Sarah Dieterichs does all the repairs. She thinks she can sort it out without removing the top and get it back to me pretty quickly. Nice people, too.

www.guitarparlor.net
  #7  
Old 11-08-2012, 04:07 PM
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Ask Glenn at Bass Specialties on Street Road in Bensalem - I'm sure he can recommend someone.
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  #8  
Old 11-09-2012, 10:55 AM
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Mike Shank is the real deal. One of the most respected guys in the country and reasonably priced. I can't say enough good things about Mike and Linda.
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnificentB View Post
Hey thanks guys...I found a few online, including Jack Hill, and I saw Shank (he's in Hersey and that's a bit of a hike.) Bucks County Music said they couldn't even look at it until late next week, and then they might have it for a while.

Bil Mitchell's Guitar Parlor in Reigelsville took it on for me. He makes beautiful acoustic guitars and his partner Sarah Dieterichs does all the repairs. She thinks she can sort it out without removing the top and get it back to me pretty quickly. Nice people, too.

www.guitarparlor.net
Technically, he's in Elizabethtown, but I dig- still worth the trip! I actually enjoy the three hour ride there from my place!

Joe
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  #10  
Old 11-12-2012, 04:43 PM
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Reglue the bass bar without removing the top? Really?
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  #11  
Old 11-13-2012, 06:28 AM
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drurb, apparently it is possible and there are a few threads in the forum detailing the process, to a greater or lesser degree. Anyway, I'm keeping my fingers crossed...

Loose bass bar?
  #12  
Old 11-13-2012, 06:40 AM
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bass bar
  #13  
Old 11-13-2012, 01:48 PM
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Thanks... just not sure that's how it SHOULD be done. Would like to hear from and would defer to the respected luthiers around here. Perhaps it's a reasonable choice under limited conditions.
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Last edited by drurb : 11-13-2012 at 01:51 PM.
  #14  
Old 11-13-2012, 02:19 PM
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I've tried re-gluing bass bars with the top on and they just don't hold. The joint's impossible to clean out, the glue cools too quickly and its a bitch to clamp properly. With a real bass, the top pops off easily enough and you can make a lasting repair.
  #15  
Old 11-13-2012, 09:30 PM
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Thanks for some authoritative infirmation, Jake. Your post confirms what was my understanding. I've heard that it can be difficult to cleanly remove the tops of some old Kays. That would seem to make it all the more important to be sure the job is done by an experienced pro.
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  #16  
Old 11-13-2012, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drurb View Post
Thanks for some authoritative infirmation, Jake. Your post confirms what was my understanding. I've heard that it can be difficult to cleanly remove the tops of some old Kays. That would seem to make it all the more important to be sure the job is done by an experienced pro.
Easy there Doc - IME the only old Kays that have hard-to-remove tops are those which have been re-glued with white or yellow glue. The ones with 50 year old hide glue are pretty decent to work with.

I recently removed the top from a '53 S-8 to re-glue the loose bass bar (impact...). While the top was off I went ahead and glued in a little breast patch to give the centre of the top some thickness so it could reproduce some higher frequencies. I'm happy to say that the bass turned out really well - it has much more definition to the sound and you have to look really hard to see that the top was ever off.
  #17  
Old 11-14-2012, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers View Post
I've tried re-gluing bass bars with the top on and they just don't hold. The joint's impossible to clean out, the glue cools too quickly and its a bitch to clamp properly. With a real bass, the top pops off easily enough and you can make a lasting repair.
I get it and I appreciate all of your responses. As I said, I'm new to DB and that's why I posted this message.

Well, it looks like the top is going to have to come off in order to make the repairs. I'm not sure if it's going to be worth the investment. I'm told in the neighborhood of $1000. I've got $950 invested in it already, and I doubt it will be worth $2k when it's repaired. The question now is, what do I do with it? It's otherwise decent shape, and even with the bass bar problem, it sounds pretty sweet. It'd be a shame to "total" it.



Jake does this bass qualify as "real"?
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  #18  
Old 11-14-2012, 07:06 AM
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Actually the estimate is more like $1500...
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  #19  
Old 11-14-2012, 07:11 AM
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Here are some Kay retail prices.

http://www.fretwellbass.com/kay-bass-c-33.html

Looks like you may have room to sink some money in yours, or sell it and get yourself a restored one. You need to get this assessed for all the work needed before you start. I would take it to a couple of double bass luthiers for opinions.

If you are just looking to play on a decent bass for the money, I'd sell it and get a Shen SB80 for $1.5k.
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  #20  
Old 11-14-2012, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drurb View Post
...I've heard that it can be difficult to cleanly remove the tops of some old Kays. That would seem to make it all the more important to be sure the job is done by an experienced pro.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers View Post
Easy there Doc - IME the only old Kays that have hard-to-remove tops are those which have been re-glued with white or yellow glue.
Easy there? Thanks for defining the "some" in my post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Hochberg View Post
Here are some Kay retail prices.

http://www.fretwellbass.com/kay-bass-c-33.html

Looks like you may have room to sink some money in yours, or sell it and get yourself a restored one. You need to get this assessed for all the work needed before you start. I would take it to a couple of double bass luthiers for opinions.

If you are just looking to play on a decent bass for the money, I'd sell it and get a Shen SB80 for $1.5k.
Well, those are sure the asking prices of some fine exemplars. I'm quite confident that a '60s-era M-1 won't fetch upwards of $3k. +1 on the recommendation to move to a Shen.
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Last edited by drurb : 11-14-2012 at 07:39 AM.
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