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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #1  
Old 05-22-2006, 04:02 PM
Matthew Tucker's Avatar
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Matthew's Double Bass Building Project

Well ... I have started recording my double bass building progress on a free forum site.

http://z4.invisionfree.com/Double_Bass

I'll be posting "live" ... more or less.

Stay with me for the long haul!
Sign in to disble this ad

Last edited by Matthew Tucker : 06-10-2006 at 03:57 PM.
  #2  
Old 05-22-2006, 05:13 PM
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Thumbs up

That's very cool.

At one point I had a separate section made up for asking questions on my forum site. I allowed guests to post only in one separate thread, they were unable to post in my pictorials or start their own topics to keep it from getting cluttered. I got board with it and removed it eventually. I could help you set that up, I think I remember how I did it.
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  #3  
Old 05-22-2006, 05:24 PM
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Neat... one question... your mold runs flush to the edge of the corner blocks... how and when will you put the linings in?
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  #4  
Old 05-22-2006, 06:00 PM
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That's what Harry asked!

I intended to unscrew the top of the mould, put the linings in, put the back on, turn the thing over, unscrew the front, put the linings in ... there's enough space left at the edges of the internal braces to glue the linings in there.

Will that work? what would you suggest?
  #5  
Old 05-22-2006, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M_A_T_T
At one point I had a separate section made up for asking questions on my forum
I WAS going to post the progress on this site, but 1. Blogs sort only in reverse order and 2. there's no way of restricting posts to my progress log.

Paul suggested I use the "in progress" forum on the BG side of the board but nah, rather stick with DB ...
  #6  
Old 05-23-2006, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Tucker
That's what Harry asked!

I intended to unscrew the top of the mould, put the linings in, put the back on, turn the thing over, unscrew the front, put the linings in ... there's enough space left at the edges of the internal braces to glue the linings in there.

Will that work? what would you suggest?
Putting the linings on while the rib structure is attached to the mold is a lot easier, ime. A rib structure without a mold and without linings is very very fragile... gluing in the linings (before removing the mold) is a needed layer of insurance.

You would need to narrow the spacing of the front and back layers of your mold. Leave a 25mm overhang of corner block. Linings are usually 15-20mm.
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  #7  
Old 05-23-2006, 03:22 PM
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graduations

What are modern bass makers thoughts about the graduations Chandler has to offer in his blue prints? Are they realistic? Too thick , too thin?
Just curious.
  #8  
Old 05-23-2006, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicklloyd
A rib structure without a mold and without linings is very very fragile... gluing in the linings (before removing the mold) is a needed layer of insurance..
Point taken, but one side of the ribs will be attached at any one time, and the blocks are held firmly by the frame until all the linings are in place. Will it be that fragile? If I do it as you suggest and thin the mold to allow 25mm projection, how do I ensure the ribs are trimmed straight and to size? And don't the ribs get a bump where they ride over the frame an inch from the edge?
  #9  
Old 05-23-2006, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew Tucker
Point taken, but one side of the ribs will be attached at any one time, and the blocks are held firmly by the frame until all the linings are in place. Will it be that fragile?
Aha... no problems there... I had to read and re-read your original post... make it so.
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  #10  
Old 05-24-2006, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basswraith
What are modern bass makers thoughts about the graduations Chandler has to offer in his blue prints? Are they realistic? Too thick , too thin?
Just curious.
They look reasonable to me. Keep in mind everyone's concept is a bit different, and a lot depends on the wood. Its hardness, grain width, weight and flexibility have to be taken into account while carving. Also the height and position of the arching. And it makes a difference what the intended use of the instrument will be.
  #11  
Old 05-26-2006, 07:38 PM
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Why is it all messed up? Like something is wrong in the header of the HTML?
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  #12  
Old 05-26-2006, 07:43 PM
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is that better? last night i fiddled but it looked OK to me in Firefox.

back to default.

this afternoon I'm going to update with pics of my first rub-joint!
  #13  
Old 05-26-2006, 08:17 PM
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It's still messed up.

Look foreward to the rubbed joint pics.
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  #14  
Old 05-26-2006, 11:25 PM
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Nice backing-out plane conversion there! Best of luck on the bass.
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  #15  
Old 05-27-2006, 02:04 AM
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OK which one's the backing-out plane and what's it for?

Matt - the site looks just fine to me. I can't see what you are referring to.

Rubjoint pics there. Not much to see though - if only i could get an MRI scan to check the glueline ...
  #16  
Old 05-27-2006, 08:09 AM
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I just wanted to say thanks very much for posting all this--it's fascinating to read and to watch the process

I've made a few instruments, all solid bodies, annd have carved the top arch on the top plate of an archtop guitar and done some of the jigs and fixtures, but I'm stalled. It's great to see this much more difficult project taking shape
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  #17  
Old 05-27-2006, 10:39 AM
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Unhappy

It looks like this. Does no one else see it?
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  #18  
Old 05-27-2006, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M_A_T_T
It looks like this. Does no one else see it?
That's the way I'm getting it too. But the pictures at the bottom of the page are coming thru fine.
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  #19  
Old 05-27-2006, 12:44 PM
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looks fine to me--mac os x with firefox
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  #20  
Old 05-27-2006, 03:44 PM
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yeah I see what you mean. Internet Explorer. Works FINE with the best browser, Firefox. I'll try to find out why it does that.

cheers

Mattehw
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