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12-09-2006, 07:44 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: My bass-ment | | | My bridge slightly moved
Hi !
I've had an upright for less then a year so I'm still new to this. I realized today that my bridge has slightly moved(approx 2mm down and 3mm left). Should I take it to the luthier, leave it that way or detune the strings and put it back in place myself.
My luthier marked the bridge position at the last setup.
Thanks !
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12-09-2006, 09:52 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Kansas City area | | | You should be able to loosen the strings enough to move the bridge yourself. Check the alignment of the bridge while you bring the strings up to tension. You don't want it to come forward. |
12-09-2006, 10:31 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2001 Location: St. Louis, MO USA | | | Loosen the strings only enough to force the bridge into place. Don't relieve all the tension. That will reduce the likelyhood of the post moving.
If you are a little adventurous, you can probably move the bridge without loosening the strings at all. I do it all the time. |
12-15-2006, 05:06 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Chasarms  Loosen the strings only enough to force the bridge into place. Don't relieve all the tension. That will reduce the likelyhood of the post moving.
If you are a little adventurous, you can probably move the bridge without loosening the strings at all. I do it all the time. | Yip. Hai-ya!  |
12-15-2006, 09:42 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2001 Location: St. Louis, MO USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydbass Yip. Hai-ya! |
I never have been a karate chop guy. That is a little spooky for me. My teacher showed me an easy way that is much safer.
If the bridge is tipping, you can grasp the G and E in your fists and use your thumbs to leverage the feet back down flush on the top. The same idea works for actually scooting the feet. Just be careful where you leverage from. |
12-16-2006, 11:00 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Near Berkeley, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Chasarms If the bridge is tipping, you can grasp the G and E in your fists and use your thumbs to leverage the feet back down flush on the top. The same idea works for actually scooting the feet. Just be careful where you leverage from. | Interesting, I'd like to try this on my bridge. Are you saying you grasp the G and E strings, and push with your thumbs on the top of the bridge?
Do you do this with the strings at tension, or loosened?
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John Greitzer
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12-16-2006, 11:38 AM
| | Jeff Bollbach Luthier, Inc. | | Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: freeport, ny | | | I'm not following the G and E thing. If the bridge is leaning forward, grip the E and A and push with your thumb directly twixt the A and D. This will give you the best leverage.You will not break the bridge this way. If the slots are good and the string windings are not compromised then you can move the bridge under tension. If the windings are broken at all it will form a sharp edge that will dig into the wood and make it difficult or impossible to move. Then you will need to decrease the tension. As far as lateral movement, if you want to move the brdge to the bass side grasp the eff hole with four fingers and hook your thumb around the bass side bridge leg. Then gently tap the treble leg while exerting gentle pulling pressure on the bass leg. You need the proper tool to do the tapping. I use a very small Japanese hammer. The tool will have to be small enough to fit so it doesn't hit the adjuster and have enough mass to have an effect. I am drawing a blank right now as to what household items may work.
ps-of course just reverse the process if the bridge favors the bass side. |
12-16-2006, 01:41 PM
|  | 'Woodworker - Witch Doctor - Luthier'
Owner/The Bass Spa, String Repairman/L & M Vancouver | | Join Date: May 2006 Location: Crescent Beach, BC | | | "I'm not following the G and E thing."
Jeff, I think Chas is describing the two-handed method, while you're thinking one-handed. I use the double thumb method myself, having smaller hands. When its on the bench I pull the top of the bridge back toward me with my fingers while steadying the endblock with my chest. |
12-16-2006, 04:41 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Oslo, Norway | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Bollbach I am drawing a blank right now as to what household items may work. | I tap the bridge with the back of a book. |
12-16-2006, 05:14 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Sac Area | | | It MOVED, Jerry!!!
;-)
Oh crud! I just realized that I tried to be funny in a double-bass forum. Please excuse my incursion.
:-)
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Head: Markbass LittleMark II
Cab: Markbass Traveler 102P x 2
Last edited by Foamy : 12-18-2006 at 03:44 PM.
Reason: That wasn't funny
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12-16-2006, 08:31 PM
|  | Oracle, Ancient Order of Rass Hattur | | Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Connecticut | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers When its on the bench I pull the top of the bridge back toward me with my fingers while steadying the endblock with my chest. | A similar technique can be used with the bass on its back on a carpeted floor. You kneel down with your knees against the endblock. |
12-16-2006, 10:20 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2001 Location: St. Louis, MO USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers "I'm not following the G and E thing."
Jeff, I think Chas is describing the two-handed method, while you're thinking one-handed. I use the double thumb method myself, having smaller hands. When its on the bench I pull the top of the bridge back toward me with my fingers while steadying the endblock with my chest. | Yup. I use two hands. One thumb 'tween the E and A, the other D and G. |  | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | | 
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