Narrowing the Fingerboard

iiipopes · #1 03-27-2011, 11:35 PM

OK, after quite some time with my CCB I want to narrow the fingerboard. It's a hair more than @ 1 3/4 wide at the nut, and I'd like to take @ 1/16 inch off the G string side. After confirming with measurements everywhere from the pegbox to the bridge, and making sure it everything is centered and set up properly otherwise, the distance from the center of the G string to its edge of the fingerboard is 1/16 more than the distance from the center of the E string to its edge of the fingerboard. I find myself bothered by the reach across the fingerboard, and with the bridge and saddle grooves set up and centered by measurement and not just by eye you can see the fingerboard is a little too wide on the G string side at the overstand end of the fingerboard as well.

After combing through the stickies and search engine with a variety of terms, I haven't found this particular issue discussed. I know that shaving that much off the side of the fingerboard may also shave some off the neck, may require some spot refinishing here or there, and require some slight recontouring of the back of the neck to bring it back to an evenly rounded contour, but my CCB neck is thick enough that should not be a problem and won't thin out the neck appreciably.

Finally, putting a straightedge up to the edge of the fingerboard, it's not straight anyway, bulging out slightly from straight at the heel, so it would be nice if nothing else just to finish it off well so it feels more consistent coming up the neck.

So before I take a small block plane and dive in, I'd like others to post how they deal with this. Thanks in advance.

**joinercape** · #2 03-28-2011, 03:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iiipopes

OK, after quite some time with my CCB I want to narrow the fingerboard. It's a hair more than @ 1 3/4 wide at the nut, and I'd like to take @ 1/16 inch off the G string side. After confirming with measurements everywhere from the pegbox to the bridge, and making sure it everything is centered and set up properly otherwise, the distance from the center of the G string to its edge of the fingerboard is 1/16 more than the distance from the center of the E string to its edge of the fingerboard. I find myself bothered by the reach across the fingerboard, and with the bridge and saddle grooves set up and centered by measurement and not just by eye you can see the fingerboard is a little too wide on the G string side at the overstand end of the fingerboard as well.

After combing through the stickies and search engine with a variety of terms, I haven't found this particular issue discussed. I know that shaving that much off the side of the fingerboard may also shave some off the neck, may require some spot refinishing here or there, and require some slight recontouring of the back of the neck to bring it back to an evenly rounded contour, but my CCB neck is thick enough that should not be a problem and won't thin out the neck appreciably.

Finally, putting a straightedge up to the edge of the fingerboard, it's not straight anyway, bulging out slightly from straight at the heel, so it would be nice if nothing else just to finish it off well so it feels more consistent coming up the neck.

So before I take a small block plane and dive in, I'd like others to post how they deal with this. Thanks in advance.

I would use a sharp cabinet scraper, 1/16th will come off fast...or maybe first make a new nut with the string spacing you like. Flairs at the end of the fingerboard are not uncommon, though it does also bother me when I find one! If any of this makes you nervous it may be best to let your favorite luthier do the job. Otherwise have at it and good luck!

uprightben · #3 03-28-2011, 05:07 AM

This is a problem with the nut, the string slots need to be moved. If the neck is in straight, that is the center of the fingerboard points straight at the center of the endpin and that line passes equal distance from the f holes, then taking material off the neck at the nut will mess it all up.

**joinercape** · #4 03-28-2011, 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uprightben

This is a problem with the nut, the string slots need to be moved. If the neck is in straight, that is the center of the fingerboard points straight at the center of the endpin and that line passes equal distance from the f holes, then taking material off the neck at the nut will mess it all up.

....probably true....but making a new nut isn't that big a deal as long as you feel you can handle it and have the tools...it will be a reasonably costly job at a luthier's shop but then you can be sure it would be done correctly and get the string spacing you want.

iiipopes · #5 03-28-2011, 11:28 AM

Also, I forgot to mention that on the G string side you can feel the overlap of the fingerboard sticking out beyond the neck. It's not the full 1/16 by any means, but you can feel it. So I don't think it will be a big deal. I've already redone the nut and "false nutted" the scale down an inch for my left hand pinky that is too short and curved inwards so I can maintain 1/2 & 1st positions properly. So I think the neck will be alright. I mean, after all, it's a CCB I bought to play with and learn from structurally as well as play in my jazz/dance band. After a couple of years when I get it to where I want it, then if it starts giving out, instead of pouring $$ into it, I'll know what to request of a luthier for a "real" bass. But I'm really close, and really enjoying the used set of Spiro S42 Weichs I found for it, which I've been able to get down to 5mm G to 8mm E for great growl, no buzz. My G string, having been transferred to the tuner closest to the nut to get the greatest downforce and stability for it, doesn't twang at all as a lot of other guys talk about here on the forum.

vejesse · #6 03-29-2011, 07:26 AM

I'm sure some people will disagree but I like a neck that's not much wider than 1 5/8" wide at the nut and 3 3/8" wide at the end of the fingerboard. Lots of factory basses are way wider than that with a big concave scoop in between.

You can definitely trim the neck in width while the neck is installed, I do it sometimes for new, good sounding Romanian factory plywood basses with enormous necks. I'll do it before or after the bass is set up. If after, I'll lay out out my cuts while the bass is strung with old strings and scribe lines with a 36" straight edge in the top of the fingerboard, then rub white China marker in the scribed lines. Then you plane and scrape away. Plane so you don't tear out the wood and measure your width as you go, all the while checking the edge of the fingerboard for straightness with a straight edge.

After the width is where you want it you can straighten the shape of the back of the neck handle and finalize the neck thickness and shape. Go for that "D" shape if possible. Then you blend everything in and finally re varnish the neck heel and the place where the neck meets the scroll.

I'm making it sound routine but it's a bunch of work and easy to screw up. Don't take off to much wood. And you should double check your setup first. Is the neck tilted? Was the nut and bridge cut properly? All this may be making the strings off center and should be corrected first.

All disclaimers apply.

iiipopes · #7 03-29-2011, 07:42 AM

vejesse -- thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for.

Eric Hochberg · #8 03-29-2011, 07:54 AM

For the life of me, I don't understand how you guys get that clean, smooth, straight edge by hand. Do you use a template? How many necks do you have to screw up before you can do this?

iiipopes · #9 03-29-2011, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Hochberg

For the life of me, I don't understand how you guys get that clean, smooth, straight edge by hand. Do you use a template? How many necks do you have to screw up before you can do this?

Hopefully, in my case, none!

iiipopes · #10 04-03-2011, 12:23 AM

Got the neck shaved. It was at least 1 7/8 at the nut to start with, now it's just a hair under 1 3/4. Planed to a good straight edge all the way along the fingerboard. Rounded and blended in the back of the neck with taking as little wood off as possible to keep a good deep evenly tapered "D" shape. From the front you can hardly tell I did anything, but oh, it feels so much better. Also, lowered the nut slots some more while I was at it. Sounding great. Growl with no buzz. String heights are 5-6-7-8 mm. Now all it needs is to get the pickup remounted and move the soundpost just a little bit since the D string is just a tad boomy. Immediate noticable improvement in left hand technique, since the palm side of the left index finger knuckle no longer drags the edge of the fingerboard when stopping the E and A strings, so octaves and position shifts gain precision. While I was there, added a hair of scoop to the G string to clean up intonation.

Thanks again for everyone's help.