Neck Repairs.

[Fatso]

I've come accross a 3/4 Bogey Hybrid Upright currently owned and maintained by a good luthier. When he bought it the neck had been snaped. He has since fixed it with 2 bolts (not visible) and seems to have done a really good job. It also has some antique tuning pegs, ebony fingerboard and 'delux' bridge.

Does anyone have experience with neck repairs?

Am I likely to have problems with a neck repair in years to come?

How much does a neck contribute to the over all tone of an instrument?

[toman]

So what exactly was it that Prof. Snape did to this bass?

[Fatso]

I'll tell you what I know: The neck had snapped at the bottom near the bridge and he fixed it with '2 bolts'. Cosmeticly you have to look closely to notice the join. The medium grade ebony fingerboard is and has always been one piece. He's taken the factory metal tuning pegs off and replaced them with antique pegs with wooden axels (not sure if the wood is functional or cosmetic). I think the end pin has been replaced with a lightweight aluminium rod.

Apart from the above I can't give you any more details of the restoration, so... what questions should I ask him re the neck repair?

At the moment I'm playing an Enrico ply so if this Bogey hybrid is functional it could work out to be a cost effective upgrade for me. If there's any concern about reoccoring problems from the old war wound then I'll leave it.

[B. Graham]

Originally Posted by Fatso

antique pegs with wooden axels (not sure if the wood is functional or cosmetic).

Personally, I think they are functional. I believe that they grib the strings better than smooth brass machines, but I may be the sole holder of that opinion.

[Silversorcerer]

Somehow when I read "neck snapped at the bottom" and "near the bridge" I'm confused. I'm guessing you mean it snapped just above the heel, which while it is closer to the bridge than the other end (scroll, pegbox), it is still a good ways from the bridge. Repairs in that area are tricky for sure and some repair methods can involve bolts, but this is a controversial method usually reserved for instruments of lesser value. When the alternative and more accepted repair (new neck usually with a graft to preserve the scroll and pegbox) is cost prohibitive, bolts are sometimes an acceptable alternative.

A good indication of how well it will hold up is how long ago it was done. If it was 5 years ago or 10, it probably isn't going to change. If it was done last year, it is far more questionable. You want that repair to have been through a few seasons at least with no movement.

[Paul Warburton]

If you could post some pictures, it would help us help you.

[Bob Branstetter]

From my past experience with hundreds of school basses, I would venture to say that at least 3 out of 10 have failed or partially failed neck repairs when bolts have been used. Repairs done with large diameter dowels seem to do somewhat better, but some still develop problems over time. The problem seems to be that both methods add strength in the direction of the strings, but add little or no strength sideways simply because both bolts and dowels are round. I have long thought that a near perfect repair for cheaper instruments would be a square "dowel", but a reasonably priced mortising machine that will cut deep enough and large enough for a bass neck repair is unavailable. However, the odds of a properly done neck graft failing are probably less than your odds of being struck by lightning. YMMV

[Fatso]

This is all really helpful advise - thank you all.

Taking all your feedback into account I'm going to leave this bass and keep saving $. There are enough variables to worry about in this game without a neck repair that may or may not last.

Thanks again.

[anahata]

My neck had been repaired with a square dowel which has been stable for over 20 years. But, it is a long break and last summer's long wet monsoon here along with swamp cooling caused the other end of repair to let go. I'd so much rather apply the $$ to upgrade than to this repair!)