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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #1  
Old 11-16-2007, 11:43 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lenexa, KS
Need Advice on Basebar Replacement

I am having restoration work done on my 100 year old German flat back. Top off, cracks repaired, new adjustable bridge, and rosewood fingerboard replaced with ebony fingerboard.

Upon closer inspection of the basebar with the top off, we noticed that the basebar and top were carved out of the same piece of wood. In addition, the basebar had been modified from its original gradual curve to a "step up" configuration where the middle is considerably higher than the two ends. It looks like someone took a rasp and started from the middle of the basebar and removed a considerable amount of wood as they moved toward each end of the basebar.

My repairman informed me that the basebar/top being one piece of wood increases the risk of cracks forming in the top along the edge of the basebar. You can see where this has happened on the lower end of the basebar and has been previously repaired.

He suggests that the existing basebar be removed by taking it down to the same thickness as the top, then carving out and glueing a new, fitted basebar to the top.

Have any of you run across this situation before?
If so, is this suggestion sound?
What are the risks/downsides and the benefits/upsides of doing what I would consider major "surgery"?

Thanks in advance,
pat
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  #2  
Old 11-17-2007, 03:41 AM
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Owner: Ken Smith Basses, Ltd.
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Perkasie, PA USA
Cool yes..

Actually, you don't have a Bassbar in that Bass. You have an integral 'Bar that looks like a Bassbar but doesn't act like one.

Years and years ago I had a Bass like yours and did the same thing. I fitted a new 'real' 'Bar and improved the Bass. It was my first and only Bassbar job. I restored a few Basses but didn't have the time so that was the only one I did. It came out good but once was enough for me.

With a real 'Bar, it will be slanted slightly and oppose the grain.

Read this from Jeff; http://jeffbollbach.com/JB%20II/luthier_rant3.htm

The Bass should have slightly more low end than before and do not 'spring' the 'Bar. This actually causes the Top to sink at the ends.

Since the Top is off already, doing a new Bar makes perfect sense. I have had the 'Bars replaced on several of my restored Basses in the last 3 years. Two of the Basses have old Bars and no problems in that area so we left the 'Bar as is.
  #3  
Old 11-17-2007, 05:59 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lenexa, KS
Thanks Ken, I really appreciate and respect your knowledge/wisdom in this area. This helps tremendously and I will have the integral "bar" removed and a new bassbar made and placed (without spring!).

One other question that has come up is related to replacing the rosewood fingerboard with an ebody one. I was asked by the luthier if I wanted the fingerboard "beveled" on the E string side. I plan to use this bass for both jazz pizz and classical arco. More than likely, the jazz pizz will be the majority of use; however, I want to get back to arco for personal satisfaction.

What would be the best fingerboard for the use I have described, beveled or not beveled or other options?

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and more importantly your wisdom.

pat
  #4  
Old 11-17-2007, 06:38 PM
Banned

Owner: Ken Smith Basses, Ltd.
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Perkasie, PA USA
Cool FB...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bryantp View Post
Thanks Ken, I really appreciate and respect your knowledge/wisdom in this area. This helps tremendously and I will have the integral "bar" removed and a new bassbar made and placed (without spring!).

One other question that has come up is related to replacing the rosewood fingerboard with an ebody one. I was asked by the luthier if I wanted the fingerboard "beveled" on the E string side. I plan to use this bass for both jazz pizz and classical arco. More than likely, the jazz pizz will be the majority of use; however, I want to get back to arco for personal satisfaction.

What would be the best fingerboard for the use I have described, beveled or not beveled or other options?

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and more importantly your wisdom.

pat
The rounded type is what I prefer. The Bevel one is a thing of the past I think.
  #5  
Old 11-17-2007, 06:39 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Bevelled fingerboards (there is a technical name for it) were designed back in the days of gut strings, so that the E string would have the room it needed to vibrate.

I have one bass with a bevel, and one without, and it's not something I even notice.
  #6  
Old 11-18-2007, 03:59 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Stanley, KS (Kansas City)
Quote:
Originally Posted by KSB - Ken Smith View Post
The Bevel one is a thing of the past I think.
It's not a thing of the past for me and quite a few of my customers. I have round boards on some of my basses, but my favorite bass has a beveled board. However, I do find it much easier to plane and setup a round board.
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