pop goes the neck.

gottadog · #1 12-13-2009, 12:41 AM

i'm pretty upset at myself. i just bought my bass today, leaned it against my amp and it slid down and hit the floor popping the neck.

Its just a palatino bass, i got such a great deal on it and i'm kicking myself right now.

so the neck was already pinned. the break is between the rear of where the neck sits in the saddle, and it is very clean and fits back together perfectly. so i was thinking that i'd drill out the pin and re pin it myself. i'm pretty damn oriented with tools and how things work, coming from a construction/mechanic background.

I've written this to gain other info from you guys and gals that are much more experienced. curious what type of glue's are used and what type of dowel/pin.

my other problem is that the hole where the end pin fits is larger then the endpin allowing it to slightly slant toward string pressure. curious how that is repaired.

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...rightbass1.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...rightbass2.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...prightbass.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...rightbass3.jpg

gottadog · #2 12-13-2009, 01:11 AM

well i managed to find this thread and also looked at the thread dallasstrings posted.
another broken neck!
I think I'll be epoxing the joint then adding a dowel

anyway any info would be appreciated.

i just bought this thing. i spent 200 dollars on it so its worth fixing. This is my beginner bass, i'm transitioning from electric.

__HM__ · #3 12-13-2009, 01:13 AM

I don't have any info, but I must ask, where the HELL did you get a bass for $200? Or under $500 for that matter?

hdiddy · #4 12-13-2009, 01:22 AM

I'd do what you can, then ditch it when it explodes the next time. You have what we call a "Bass Shaped Object". Do what you can with it since you bought it already. I wouldn't put any real money into it.

Cody Sisk · #5 12-13-2009, 07:34 AM

PM me if you have any questions. As you can see in the other thread, removing the remaining neck joint will really make life miserable. Avoid it if you can. Do make sure that the neck and fingerboard are nice and warm before separating them. The glue joint is stronger than the wood itself at room temp. Good luck.

RustyAxe · #6 12-13-2009, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by __HM__

I don't have any info, but I must ask, where the HELL did you get a bass for $200? Or under $500 for that matter?

It's a Pallatino electric/upright. They sell for around $550, new. Personally, I think the neck was just waiting for an opportune moment to blow itself apart ...

gottadog · #7 12-13-2009, 10:53 AM

i know its a cheap bass but i got it cheap, it came with a $130 dollar mag p/u and silk and nickel strings. also has an adustable bridge. so it definitely had more invested making it worth my time.

any advice on epoxy? i have searched a few threads seen the pros and cons and because the there isnt any value in this bass thats what i'm going to do. so if anyone has any help i would appreciate it. we all know its a cheap bass.

like i posted before i got it to learn to play upright bass. cheapest way i found to get started.

RustyAxe · #8 12-13-2009, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gottadog

i know its a cheap bass but i got it cheap, it came with a $130 dollar mag p/u and silk and nickel strings. also has an adustable bridge. so it definitely had more invested making it worth my time.

any advice on epoxy? i have searched a few threads seen the pros and cons and because the there isnt any value in this bass thats what i'm going to do. so if anyone has any help i would appreciate it. we all know its a cheap bass.

like i posted before i got it to learn to play upright bass. cheapest way i found to get started.

That's cool, no need to apologize for buying what you could afford. Sounds like a fun project.

Cody Sisk · #9 12-13-2009, 10:59 AM

Any store specializing in woodworking should carry T-88 epoxy. It might also be found in marine supply stores. Also don't clamp it too tightly, there needs to be a layer of epoxy in there for a strong joint, you don't want to squeeze it all out.

gottadog · #10 12-13-2009, 11:26 AM

thanks again Cody. What is the cure time for T-88? I looked it up and found nothing. I have aircraft grade epoxy that i know cures around 48 hours.

I sent you a pm.

gottadog · #11 12-13-2009, 12:09 PM

have another question. other then aesthetics, instead of removing the fingerboard what would be the problem with just drilling 2 dowel holes through it into the heel that way its easier and stronger.

i dont care if it looks good, its just a china bass. just want to get some playing time and move on.

gbaker · #12 12-13-2009, 01:16 PM

Cody and others have given you good advice.

I would add one consideration - this is your personal bass and you only have to please yourself, not a customer. If it were mine I would not remove the fingerboard - too much work just to hide a pin placement from myself on this quality bass. I would drill the finger board larger than the pin with a forester or other flat bottomed bit and then fill or plug it after the repair.

Take Cody's advice about fitting a wedge at the button and on the FB or neck for clamping. Don't expect rubber feet on a quick-clamp to hold. It will slip, I know by experience.

It's a good break. Have fun.

forester · #13 12-13-2009, 06:55 PM

than the pin with a forester or other flat bottomed bit [/quote]

hey, i resemble that remark...flat bottom indeed!

Jake deVilliers · #14 12-13-2009, 08:28 PM

If we're going to get correct its actually 'Forstner', named after their inventor.

forester · #15 12-14-2009, 06:15 PM

capitol idea.

gbaker · #16 12-14-2009, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers

If we're going to get correct its actually 'Forstner', named after their inventor.

Stand corrected; a "little bit" off. Sorry forester, woke you up.

mnivek · #17 12-15-2009, 08:20 AM

About the endpin hole,there could be a few causes:
1) undersized plug for the hole - a larger diameter plug might work
2) over reamed or drilled endpin hole, hopefully not as they are tapered with an endpin hole reamer set to a specific angle(except Kay or Englehart endpins).
You could shim the plug, keeping the same angle by placing shims equally around the plug for a more stable fit.
If you buy a larger diameter plug then you might have to trim it down to size, if you have a lathe this works easily.

gottadog · #18 12-16-2009, 12:06 AM

thank you mnivek. looks like the wood on the string side of the hole was pushed in just a bit. there is a very slight wrinkle. well with your advice i know what to look for now. i'll see what is available and start there.

thanks again

i've got my bass all back together. just waiting for a few hard wood plugs i ordered online to get here and then i'll drill out the holes and make it better then it currently is.

thanks for everyone's help. I'm really happy with the bass thus far. the taste i've gotten so far is enough to know i'm hooked already. seems my american jazz bass will be kept in case for a while.

wayne holmes · #19 12-25-2009, 08:50 PM

Sorry that your first day with your bass has gone so badly- this should be a reminder to us all about the correct way to stow a bass. I am currently doing the exact same repair. You have the classical neck break! To do it correctly to where it will last is a long process-I have over 20 hours in it now. But, if you will PM me I will send you some pictures of the process. I would post them but have a hard time posting pictures on TB for some reasons. I believe that you can fix it with your experience, but it will not be easy. If you just have $200 in it, you might consider getting a luthier to do it since he/she will have the knowhow and tools. It might cost you more than you think just to get the glue, maybe some tools and clamps that you might need and the aftermath of the finger board removel route will take several hours of your time.. Removing the finger board will be the big challenge- If you get if off without damaging the neck and finger board, I would be surprised. IMO, the FB needs to come off so you can install some dowels(I personally use carbon fiber rods and 4 stainless steel screws) It can be fixed without removing the board but it might not look all that great. Since you only have $200 in it and are trying out the upright playing-it may be the better way to go. I would fix it the easiest and cheapest way----with board still on---you don't have much to lose- later get you a better bass if you take to the upright. IMO/IME.Good luck.