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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #1  
Old 06-20-2006, 05:42 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Greece-Crete Island-Chania
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Problem with fingerboard camber?

Hello,
I'm posting because i think that there is a problem with the fingerboard camber on my bass. I have just filed the nut slots -after the advice of Ken- and lowered the strings to almost a zero height. Of course now it is more easy to play the first notes (F,Bb,Eb,Ab) with the 1st finger. But the problem of the very high tension strings continues to exist. Generally, I'd say that there is a remarkable difficulty to play this instrument. (Chinese carved anonymous, second hand, minimoum 16 years old, probably 7/8, string length 108,5cm or 42 7/10 inch)
I believe that
a) it is possible the neck angle is wrong (height of bridge is 18,5cm or 7 3/10 inch)
b) the fingerboard camber isn't set up correctly,
or maybe a & b together.

I read in another thread the advice of Arnold to someone who had a similar problem, to push down the strings at the end of the fingerboard an measure the deeper height of the scoop.
Well, i did it to the G string, in order to be more detailed:
G string, all measurements in mm:

G------Ab-----A-----Bb-----C-------D-------Eb-----F-------G-------A------C------D-------E
0------0,5----1,5----2,3----2,5-----2,7-----2,6-----2,1-----1,8-----1,5-----1-----0,8-----0,5

I'd like to have your thoughts about it, any input will be greatly appreciated.
Panos.
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  #2  
Old 06-20-2006, 06:36 AM
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Owner: Ken Smith Basses, Ltd.
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Perkasie, PA USA
Cool Bridge height..

Measuring under the strings at the end of the fingerboard, how high or how much room is between the fb and the underside of each string?

I would expect about 5mm under the G and 8mm under the E for a tight Bass or maybe even 4mm G if you can get it.

Press down the E string using tow hand at the nut, F and at the heel of the neck around C. How much space is under the string? Do this with each string to measute your lower camber.
  #3  
Old 06-20-2006, 10:25 AM
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The string height at the end of the fingerboard is:
From G to E : 5,5 - 8 - 8 - 11 mm


Quote:
Originally Posted by KSB - Ken Smith
Press down the E string using tow hand at the nut, F and at the heel of the neck around C. How much space is under the string? Do this with each string to measute your lower camber.
ken, you mean that i have to press down the E string at the place of first F and first C, and then measure?

If i understood and did it correctly, then it is:
Lower camber:
E - 0,9 mm
A - 1
D - 1,1
G - 1,1


By the way, I also measured the internal angle of the strings at the point they pass over the bridge, it is 145o, i don't know if this does make any sense..

Last edited by panos : 06-20-2006 at 10:32 AM.
  #4  
Old 06-20-2006, 01:18 PM
Banned

Owner: Ken Smith Basses, Ltd.
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Perkasie, PA USA
Cool Bridge height...

Quote:
Originally Posted by panos
The string height at the end of the fingerboard is:
From G to E : 5,5 - 8 - 8 - 11 mm




ken, you mean that i have to press down the E string at the place of first F and first C, and then measure?

If i understood and did it correctly, then it is:
Lower camber:
E - 0,9 mm
A - 1
D - 1,1
G - 1,1


By the way, I also measured the internal angle of the strings at the point they pass over the bridge, it is 145o, i don't know if this does make any sense..

The Camber sounds great.. about 1mm. That's very low.

The Bridge however may be a problem. I would suggest you try to start from G to E, 5, 6.5, 8, 9.5. Lowering everything just a bit. The A is ok and the G just a tad high but the D and E must be lowered so you have a continuos arc fro Bowing and just a tad more room for each thicker string to vibrate.

Now, this is assuming your fingerboard has a fairly matching curve and is not too flat. If arched more, that's less of a problem. You can take wood off but you can't put it back on. Give this a shot and see how it goes.

Also, if you have an adjustable tailwire, lay the bass on it's back on a table, loosen the strings a bit, loosen the clamp some, wiggle the tailpiece and let it move towards the bridge about 1/4-1/2" forward, moving the tailpiece closer to the bridge. then tighten the clamp REAL tight, re-tune, check the angle of the bridge to the top, fingerboard and feet fit and you're back in business.

This should move the mass of the TP closer to the strings and make the Bass feel a little softer to play and easier to press down the strings. At least to me ears and fingers it does.
  #5  
Old 06-23-2006, 04:02 PM
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Ken, after your advices - I want to thank you about them-, i started lowering the strings at the bridge, and now the new heights are:
(G to E): 5 - 6,5 - 7,5 - 9
I already feel that the tension is less, and the bass generally easier playable.
Unfortunately, i don't have an adjustable tailwire, but i think it doesn't matter since the desired effect is made.

I'd like the strings to be a little more soft, but i can't have it all. Maybe, if i could raise the height of the saddle, would make any sense? Any ideas about it?

Before i lower the strings height, i was getting a buzz on the first Bb on D string, and first F on A string. Now it is more strong, have I to do something with this, or just habituate myself to this?
  #6  
Old 07-02-2006, 01:41 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Austin, TX
Maybe now off to the strings forum to talk about those. You can really change the tension a lot.
  #7  
Old 07-02-2006, 09:10 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Austin, Texas
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex Scott
Maybe now off to the strings forum to talk about those. You can really change the tension a lot.
Alex gave me a set of Corellis to replace my Helicores. I noticed a tension difference right away. There was less, much less.
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