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09-13-2010, 10:52 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: SE Wisconsin | | | Project Bass - German (Bohemian?) Flatback My old teacher and close friend has retired and is selling his house. As part of his clean-out efforts, he gifted me with what appears to be a late-19th/early 20th century flatback bass -- in unplayable condition.
I'd mentioned to him a couple of times that I'd be interested in acquiring some luthiery skills and he thought this would be a great "learning opportunity." I suspect that the bass would otherwise have gone to the curb.
Aside from the generally poor condition, my biggest concern is that the bass has some water/moisture damage. Looking through the F-hole, I see what appears to be mold, and there is definitely a pronounced musty smell emanating from the instrument. Is this usually a deal-breaker? Can the mold problem be overcome?
I have no formal luthier training, but I'm not going to dive into this headlong. If the bass is deemed worth restoring, I plan spend several months reading, researching, hanging around repair shops and getting a workshop ready before I even take the top off. If it makes it that far, the final setup work with be done by trusted luther.
I've posted photos of the bass in its current condition and some more details here. Any comments about the bass itself or the practicality of investing the time in restoring it are welcome.
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Pull up the weeds before they're too damn big.
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09-13-2010, 10:58 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: NYC | | | Looks like a Tyrolean/Bohemian "blockless wonder" to me. I'd take it to a luthier and have it inspected, get an estimate and have him explain just how big a job this for a beginner to take on. | 
09-13-2010, 11:02 AM
| | Registered User Luthier, Dallas Strings | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Dallas, Texas | | | Go for it! That instrument's in great shape. I'll let the other guys who do more restorations chime in on the mold issue, but it shouldn't be a major concern. I know a luthier who restored a violin that had sunk with a ship and been at the bottom of the ocean for over a year.
It will be a time-consuming and humbling project. Though it looks like you're heading in the right direction to get all the knowledge you can before digging in. | 
09-13-2010, 12:07 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: SE Wisconsin | | Thanks for the comments.
I do intend to show it to a luthier before starting anything. I'll trust her judgment concerning the value/potential sound of the instrument versus the time and work involved in getting it playable. I'm aware that it will be a huge task, and that the learning curve will be steep. But the deadline is open-ended, my expectations are realistic.
One other question about the bass: Do the blockless wonders usually have an "integrated bass bar?" I found this nice page on Gerard Samija's site, and this bass seems very similar to the one I have.
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Pull up the weeds before they're too damn big.
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09-13-2010, 12:08 PM
| | Inadvertent Microtonalist | | Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Portland, ME | | | I'm no luthier.
One of the toughest parts of this project will be fixing the center-seam on the top. The deep violin folks have some trick to re-joint the seam without separating the parts which are still attached. They view this is a superior, more refined and higher-percentage repair than breaking it open and re-shooting it. My sister was telling me about doing this to a 'cello last month and I just didn't get it.
Good luck, man. At my house that thing would languish until we moved. | 
09-13-2010, 12:35 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2005 Location: Forest Grove, OR | | | You might get a copy of Chuck Traeger's book to peruse while you are deciding what to do. It is not the last word on bass-repair, but it would give you a fair idea what you are up against. Then you can map out the job, and do things in a logical order, so that each step makes the next one easier. | 
09-13-2010, 12:41 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: SE Wisconsin | | Quote:
Originally Posted by 1st Bass You might get a copy of Chuck Traeger's book to peruse while you are deciding what to do. It is not the last word on bass-repair, but it would give you a fair idea what you are up against. Then you can map out the job, and do things in a logical order, so that each step makes the next one easier. | Thanks! This is definitely part of my pre-launch plan.
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Pull up the weeds before they're too damn big.
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09-13-2010, 12:48 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: NYC | | | Odds are in favor of an integrated bassbar. | 
09-13-2010, 01:56 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Larisa, Greece | | | I'd sell my soul to Mefistopheles in order to have such a project in my hands. I've seen some basses in worst conditions and today the sing perfectly, after meticulous restoring. If i were in your shoes my friend i'd go for it by all means.
Mike | 
09-13-2010, 02:15 PM
|  | Registered User Bass Hobby'ist | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Southern PA | | I too have a “block less wonder” waiting in the wings for a full restoration. My husband won’t tackle this project until retirement or <gulp> lay off.  I did not know it was a block less wonder when I purchased it. Our bass does have a bass bar but it looks “low grade”. I guess in addition to redoing the internal bracing this bass should get a proper neck block.
I have not put too much thought into this bass yet; there are easier projects in the pipeline to get some skills built up for this project. I look at this bass as my opportunity to have a carved bass with out the carved bass price. http://s318.photobucket.com/albums/m...view=slideshow | 
09-13-2010, 03:38 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Chicago | | Quote:
Originally Posted by MollyKay I look at this bass as my opportunity to have a carved bass with out the carved bass price.  | I think your husband will be paying the price...!  | 
09-13-2010, 04:45 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Billings, MT | | Once you get the bass opened up, you just need to clean it with a damp rag/mild soapy water, then plain water to remove the soap. No biggie, just be thorough, and get into all the cracks. Go slowly and just do a little bit at a time.
Do a search for "blockless wonder" if you want to know more about it. Someone has one of these things on ebay right now - in way worse shape than yours, claiming it was made in the late 17th century.
If you decide you don't want to restore it or anything, I'd love to save you the trouble 
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Mark Bryan
DB player in Billings, MT
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09-13-2010, 04:55 PM
|  | Registered User Bass Hobby'ist | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Southern PA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Hochberg I think your husband will be paying the price...!  |
Yeah…you are right!
I am a good cook and keep him fed well, he doesn’t complain. He loves the challenge of the restoration and this bass will be a challenge.
My Nana used to say "a well fed dog won't stray far from home" and then she would wink. Some how I don't think she was talking about food all the time.  | 
09-13-2010, 06:51 PM
|  | Registered User | | | | | Soap and water isn't going to do anything to that mold but give it a more favorable environment to grow in. A 1:1 mix of Clorox and hot water will kill spores and growing mold. If you or any member of your household feel run-down or weird for no obvious reason, get that thing out of there IMMEDIATELY and consult a doctor. Mold is no joke.
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"All of the poor people who started rock and roll are cool." -- Iggy
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09-13-2010, 07:11 PM
|  | 'Woodworker - Witch Doctor - Luthier' Owner/The Bass Spa, String Repairman/L & M Vancouver | | Join Date: May 2006 Location: Crescent Beach, BC | | Quote:
Originally Posted by KUNGfuSHERIFF Soap and water isn't going to do anything to that mold but give it a more favorable environment to grow in. A 1:1 mix of Clorox and hot water will kill spores and growing mold. If you or any member of your household feel run-down or weird for no obvious reason, get that thing out of there IMMEDIATELY and consult a doctor. Mold is no joke. | +1 That stuff needs bleach to kill it! | 
09-13-2010, 08:21 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: SE Wisconsin | | Quote:
Originally Posted by KUNGfuSHERIFF Soap and water isn't going to do anything to that mold but give it a more favorable environment to grow in. A 1:1 mix of Clorox and hot water will kill spores and growing mold. If you or any member of your household feel run-down or weird for no obvious reason, get that thing out of there IMMEDIATELY and consult a doctor. Mold is no joke. | Roger that. Until I'm ready to crack it open, the bass is wrapped up tight in several moving blankets and stashed in the garage.
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Pull up the weeds before they're too damn big.
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09-13-2010, 08:36 PM
|  | Registered User | | | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers +1 That stuff needs bleach to kill it! | Not bleach. Clorox. You don't want to know what that tidbit cost.
Mike, anything porous that shares airspace with that bass should be boiled or burned. Sorry to sound like an alarmist nut, but when someone you love almost ends up with brain damage from a mold sensitivity, you get jumpy.
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"All of the poor people who started rock and roll are cool." -- Iggy
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09-13-2010, 11:19 PM
|  | 'Woodworker - Witch Doctor - Luthier' Owner/The Bass Spa, String Repairman/L & M Vancouver | | Join Date: May 2006 Location: Crescent Beach, BC | | Quote:
Originally Posted by KUNGfuSHERIFF Not bleach. Clorox. You don't want to know what that tidbit cost. | According to the Clorox website the active ingredient in Clorox is Sodium hypochlorite ie bleach. Am I missing something? | 
09-14-2010, 05:10 AM
|  | Registered User | | | | | Voodoo? Who knows. When we had our mold episode I took the crash course and everyone I talked to insisted on Clorox. The half of our possessions I was able to save were apparently well cleansed by it.
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"All of the poor people who started rock and roll are cool." -- Iggy
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09-14-2010, 09:16 AM
|  | 'Woodworker - Witch Doctor - Luthier' Owner/The Bass Spa, String Repairman/L & M Vancouver | | Join Date: May 2006 Location: Crescent Beach, BC | | I hear you - experience counts.
When the poptop on our VW Westfalia developed some mould spots I killed them with Tilex which is a diluted bleach solution in a spray bottle.
Last edited by Jake deVilliers : 09-14-2010 at 09:19 AM.
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