Re-Planing Cost

[Keala]

Just got a used 1946 Kay M-1.
There is wear on the fretboard from the strings which is causing buzzing.

What's an average cost of having the fretboard re-planed?
Would it be cheaper to just have a new fretboard installed?

Thanks

[fdeck]

Getting my Kay fingerboard re-planed was around a couple hundred, IIRC, but that was more than a decade ago.

New fingerboard would be much more expensive, and it has to be planed at the end of the operation anyway. In my view, better to see if there's still enough wood left to get it re-planed once, and if it ever needs it again, go for a new board. That was my luthier's advice to me, anyway.

By the way, "fingerboard" not "fretboard." Some folks around here are persnickety about that.

[Eric Hochberg]

Some terminology in the double bass world -

Fingerboard, not fretboard
Dressed, not planed (although planing may be part of the process)

Cost for getting your board dressed will probably depend on the length of time your luthier spends on it. I've spent $3-400 on mine at various times. A bass luthier will let you know if the condition of the board warrants dressing (thick enough) or if you would be better off with a new board. It will probably depend on the extent of the problem, too.

I recently spent $950 for a beautiful new ebony board. Prices will vary. Find a good bass luthier for this job.

[bigolbassguy]

Before you run out and get your board redressed - how high is the action? Do you have an adjustable bridge?

[Keala]

Thanks for the correct terminology gang. I'm new to upright bass.
Still learning how to play it.

Yes, I do have an adjustable bridge.
The action is about a half inch at the lower end of the fingerboard.

[bigolbassguy]

That sounds like it's pretty high. If it's buzzing at that height - I think you're on the right track. Nice score, btw. I'd love to see some pictures of it. Got any?

[drurb]

Originally Posted by Eric Hochberg

Some terminology in the double bass world -

Fingerboard, not fretboard
Dressed, not planed (although planing may be part of the process)

"String height," not "action."

[bigolbassguy]

lol

[fdeck]

Originally Posted by Eric Hochberg

Fingerboard, not fretboard
Dressed, not planed (although planing may be part of the process)

LOL, I've been pwned!

[fdeck]

Originally Posted by drurb

"String height," not "action."

, not

[Jake deVilliers]

Originally Posted by fdeck

, not

LOL!

[Paul Warburton]

Originally Posted by fdeck

LOL, I've been pwned!

Actually, were were all aesned.

[Keala]

Here's a couple of pics of my Kay as requested.

[Eric Hochberg]

Originally Posted by fdeck

LOL, I've been pwned!

Nah, we posted at the same time and you beat me to it.

[fdeck]

Kaela, that Kay looks to be in really nice shape. The obligatory adjustable bridge is already there, which will save you a few bucks. Nice choice.

[William Hoffman]

Originally Posted by Keala

Just got a used 1946 Kay M-1.
There is wear on the fretboard from the strings which is causing buzzing.

What's an average cost of having the fretboard re-planed?
Would it be cheaper to just have a new fretboard installed?

Thanks

LOL using bass guitar language always provokes a reaction here!

but, substantively, having the FB dressed might be unnecessary overkill.

when i went to my luthier with a newly acquired used bass with a buzz-hole on the G string at Ab above the D, to my surprize he recommended that i not have the whole board redressed. he said use some 180 and then in a second go 250 wt sandpaper across the board to smooth out some of the critical spots. a DIY job. if that doesn't solve the problem, then go for the full fingerboard dressing.

isn't that called a redress?

[drurb]

I agree, and any reputable luthier would first evaluate the board and then try to redress () any localized problems, provided that could be accomplished so that the proper overall relief, camber, etc. would be intact. In fact, unlike William Hoffman, I'd be surprised if, based on a buzz in one location, a luthier would suggest redressing the entire board. In all fairness, maybe it was more to his relief (pun intended) than his surprise. If a localized tweak could be done, then the cost should be rather minimal-- so minimal that it would hardly be worth it to DIY, assuming that the bass was already at the shop.

[bigolbassguy]

Originally Posted by drurb

I agree, and any reputable luthier would first evaluate the board and then try to redress () any localized problems, provided that could be accomplished so that the proper overall relief, camber, etc. would be intact. In fact, unlike William Hoffman, I'd be surprised if, based on a buzz in one location, a luthier would suggest redressing the entire board. In all fairness, maybe it was more to his relief (pun intended) than his surprise. If a localized tweak could be done, then the cost should be rather minimal-- so minimal that it would hardly be worth it to DIY, assuming that the bass was already at the shop.

Congrats. That's a really nice-looking/well maintained bass. You could probably have the buzzes planed out while you wait. An experienced luthier can do the job pretty quickly, and you wouldn't have to worry about making a dent in the fingerboard. It can be tricky to DIY.

Also, your bridge looks like it is brand new. From what I can see, it's looks like the string heights are pretty low. Less than 1/2 inch on the E-side. Are the adjusters bottomed out?

2 Q's.

1. can you please measure the height of each string at the end of the fingerboard (in mm - from the fingerboard to the bottom of the string).

2. Is your adjustable bridge as low as it can go?

[Keala]

The origianal bridge was really warped so I had to replace it with this new adjustable one. The guy at the shop also set the action so I just left it as is. I'll send a pic of it soon.

The E and A string are about 10mm from the lower end of the fingerboard, and the D and A string about 9mm.

[Keala]