rebuild help

gmartin · #1 03-01-2009, 06:49 PM

I am an electric bass player (not double) and I also build and repair them. A friend of mine seems to think that I can restore his old double bass. Presently it has many cosmetic problems, including some serious chips and a snapped off scroll. Okay ... here's the general question; I will need to remove all strings, and bridge, to allow me to complete the repairs, clean, and restore the finish (I have a good deal of experience with finish work). so I would like some advice concerning the pitfalls of taking an old double bass this far down, and bring it back to playable condition.
G

Peck_Time · #2 03-01-2009, 06:53 PM

My advice: Take the bass to a luthier before you do anything.

1st Bass · #3 03-01-2009, 07:47 PM

I'm assuming you only mean what caveats are there in removing strings and bridge-- the only usual problem is that the soundpost may fall over...pretty good chance it will do so, actually. You can prepare for this eventuality by reaching in with a pencil on a stick, and marking the back plate where the soundpost currently is, and take note of which end is up on the sopundpost. You may need to get a soundpost setter--they are not cheap-- or make one. It is not as easy as it looks, to set a soundpost.

Other things that may surprise-- the nut and saddle may fall off-- they are supposed to be held by hide glue (saddle, at least, and I use glue on the nut, as well, though some do not), but if the hide glue has deteriorated, and crumbled, you may not know it until they fall off.

As an additional caveat, be aware that Hot Hide glue is the ONLY glue that luthiers will not hate you for...so, if you use gorilla glue, epoxy, CA, PVA, etc., then be hereby warned that the curse of the gluepot is upon you for the life of the bass.

If you really want to get into this particular can of proverbial worms, please do yourself and your friend (not to mention his bass) a favor, and buy Chuck Traeger's book before you begin. You will find it very helpful. This website is a big help, too.

Chet Bishop

fdeck · #4 03-01-2009, 08:02 PM

One other note is that re-finishing is a different issue on a double bass. The finish of a DB is co-mingled with its tone, and hence the "design" intentions of the maker. When I read threads on both sides, it seems like EB players are mainly concerned about resale value when they modify an instrument, but DB players take it a bit more personally. When people talk about DB repairs, they will often discuss ways to make the bass playable in a contemporary setting while paying appropriate respect for the maker's intentions. The end result is often a bass that preserves many cosmetic imperfections.

gmartin · #5 03-01-2009, 09:39 PM

Thanks you for the advice ... I should say that the bass I will be working on was on its way to the scrap heap ... so anything I do will only be an attempt to save it. Whan I say I have finsih experience ... my experience is centered around art objects and I realilze that certain thing need the understanding that your main objective is not to make it shinny but to preserve that integerity of the whole piece. I will get Mr. Traeger's book and go form there. I'm glad I checked in with those who know
G
Many thanks

arnoldschnitzer · #6 03-02-2009, 06:43 AM

Do not do any work on the varnish until you are absolutely certain there are no open cracks or seams. Otherwise you will get finish or solvent in these open areas, contaminating them and preventing them from being adequately glued-up in the future. And you should not depend on a single publication for advice on instrument repair. The "bible" for violin-family repairpersons is the Violin Restoration and Repair book by Hans Weisshar.

Phil Rowan · #7 03-02-2009, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peck_Time

My advice: Take the bass to a luthier

+100

1st Bass · #8 03-02-2009, 08:48 AM

Well, absolutely: the Weishaar book is far superior. I rather suspected, however, that the gentleman was not likely to invest $400 or so in a book, in order to repair a near-junk bass.

By all means, if you can gain access to the Weishaar/Shipman book, read that, and gain all you can from it. There is none better that I have heard of. And, if you can keep Arnold interested, I doubt there are many bass luthiers better qualified to advise you.

gmartin · #9 03-02-2009, 08:32 PM

Thank you all for the advice ... I will be getting my hands on the publications you all have recommended. I will keep posting on my progress. Oh! Mr. Rowan I did read your post (twice)... you just don't seem like much fun at all ... there isn't a luthier for hundreds miles around me ... so ... I'm sure, much to your dismay ... I will be moving forward with the process

G

dmusic148 · #10 03-02-2009, 08:45 PM

Well, as already stated, DO mark the soundpost location. And it will probably come loose and topple when you remove the strings. And it's no fun to reinstall. Mark or measure the bridge location too.

gmartin · #11 03-03-2009, 08:18 AM

As I reviewd the sound post issue on this particular instrument ... there is not a sound post. So I guess I will be baptised by fire. Thank you for taking the ime to respond.
G

1st Bass · #12 03-03-2009, 01:12 PM

Traeger's book will get you started on soundpost setting.

gmartin · #13 03-03-2009, 01:30 PM

Thank you for the reference ... I am looking for a good price on Mr. Traegers book. Both Mr. Traeger's and Mr. Weisshar fine books are quite expensive. I am going to the old stand by ... the library! I'm really glad I checked in with the list ... I have a much better idea of what to look for. As a result I have delayed the process so I can do the proper preparation.
Thanks
G